AC30 CCH help

[J Rindt]

I am embarrassed to say, I cannot figure out how to remove these "micro" switches on the top panel. Instead of nuts, they have the little cones you see in the pictures. I have tried to turn them, even with a pair of pliers, but I cannot get them off. The cone just turns and turns, but does not come loose.
Any of you guys deal with these.? I must be doing something wrong, but I do not know what it is I am missing.
Thank You
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n143/zzmoore/ac30switches002.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n143/zzmoore/ac30switches001.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n143/zzmoore/ac30switches003.jpg

[stratele52]

You are sure that the cone turn ? 

Do you have a nut on the switch , under the front panel ? Rr something that can help you to remove those switch ? Can you see a name on the switch body  ?

[phsyconoodler]

Those cones are indeed the 'nut'. If they just spin round then the switch is likely broken.
Can you see anything on the inside of that control panel?

[J Rindt]

These amps use a PCB for all the controls. You cannot get at the underside of the switch until the PCB is removed. That is to say, I cannot get under the switches, unless I can remove the top of the switch......as far as I can tell that is.
Thanks

[J Rindt]

Those cones are indeed the 'nut'. If they just spin round then the switch is likely broken.
Can you see anything on the inside of that control panel?

On my way to class. I will proceed with this, and more info later.
Thank You

[J Rindt]

Those cones are indeed the 'nut'. If they just spin round then the switch is likely broken.
Can you see anything on the inside of that control panel?

Real hard to get a good look under the board, but it looks like standard fare. Between the switch and the underside of the panel there is a lock washer. I have a feeling that these "cone" nuts are a bit hard to tighten (they look cool) and that perhaps the factory drops a bit of Lok-Tite on the threads when they assemble the amp.
I will see if a heat gun or solder iron might loosen up these nuts a little.
Thank You

[kagliostro]

Those cones are indeed the 'nut'. If they just spin round then the switch is likely broken

First I was thinking the same, than I've seen that there are more than one switch with the same nut

if all spin round and don't release, I don't think the switch are all broken

try to insert something of very thin between the nut and the faceplate, than do force and see if the nut comes off and that is only a cover for the real nut

otherwise, if you find it, let us know the solution

Kagliostro

[sluckey]

I read in another forum that those 'cones' are just glued to a standard hex nut. If that's true, they should pop off like Kagliostro suggests.

[J Rindt]

What a Night-Mare..!!!!
I could shoot the F'ing A-Holes at VOX.
I had to drill through the switch to get it apart.
The cone is indeed threaded, not just pressed on. Then there is another, "regular" nut underneath the cone. AND they are BOTH Lok-Tited to the threads of the switch.
No way in Heck to get them off.
I tried a heat gun and a solder iron.......no way.
I am just going to have to drill the others and then install some PCB switched in their place.
I imagine I can get some replacements from Mouser, etc. etc.
What a REALLY REALLY BAD idea.
Oh the pleasures of amp repair......

[kagliostro]

Can you post some other photo of the actual situation ?

Kagliostro

[stratele52]

J Rindt , can you drill a hole in the side of a cone ? Or  with a few hole in line maybe you can brake or loosen the cone ?

In your first post you said cone is turning and now I understand cone is not turning . Can you help to understand ?

Good luck

[J Rindt]

J Rindt , can you drill a hole in the side of a cone ? Or  with a few hole in line maybe you can brake or loosen the cone ?

In your first post you said cone is turning and now I understand cone is not turning . Can you help to understand ?

Good luck

There is a threaded shaft, like with all pots and switches. Remember, these are those little "micro" switches.
The cone is Lok-Tited to the shaft. When you turn the cone, it also turns the threaded shaft. No way to break it loose, it has been glued together for 5 years.
The guys at VOX should burn and die with their families in a chemical fire.

[stratele52]

Thank's for the answer J Rindt, now I understand .

[kagliostro]

If it is glued have you try with some drop of pure acetone or other strong solvent such as nitro

than wait, one other drop and so on for some times, than try to take off

Kagliostro

[stratele52]

If it is glued have you try with some drop of pure acetone or other strong solvent such as nitro

than wait, one other drop and so on for some times, than try to take off

Kagliostro

And no problem with faceplate paint ?

[kagliostro]

Faceplate paint ............... yes that is a problem

also with some duct tape as protection you must use only one or two drops at a time

no, too complicated and unsafe .................

if the faceplate is in metal you can try (with attention) to use a micro torch like this



to hot the cone, but if the faceplate is plastic .............. isn't a good idea

Kagliostro