$160 to retube a 30W-40W amp is absurd.
Change to 350 ohm 10+Watt common cathode resistor and drop 6550s (or KT88s) in.
(If the existing 200 ohm is in good shape, you could add 150r 5W in series.)
The cathode voltage should be about 45V.
45V/350r= 0.129A cathode current.
Estimate plate current as 90%-95% of cathode current: 0.122A.
Plate-cathode voltage is 500V-45V= 455V.
455V*0.122A= 56 watts plate dissipation per pair, 28W each, comfortable for cathode-bias 6550.
You "could" then drop cathode resistor to get 35W or 42W dissipation per plate. Up to a point, power output may rise; past that point, you are just heating the room. Stop before 0.18 Amp total cathode current (42W per plate). 0.15A is perhaps safer. This may be around 270 ohm common cathode resistor.
Oh, hel.... 300 ohms 10W is probably close enough, but measure cathode voltage and estimate plate dissipation before you put it in service.
The Sano's driver has more than enough drive headroom to handle the larger grid-swings needed by 6550.
Any way you do it, this amp is a cooker. I was very pleased with Sovtek 6550s in another hot-bottle 6550 project. Good as 1970s Dyna/TungSol coke-bottle 6550s but less creaking on cool-down.
*Good* EL34 *might* work a while in this amp. Start with 300-350 ohms bias. Calculate to stay just under 30W Pdiss. (EL34 have high screen current, estimate plate current near 85% of cathode current.) While this is really pushing EL34 ratings, modern for-guitar EL34 will probably stand it for over 1,000 hours, and the price sure is lower than 6550.