Upstairs, Downstairs Chassis?????

[TIMBO]

Hey guys, Just found the most USELESS tool on the bench 

Tone Junkie, has been most helpful with info on my next build, like I need another amp,YES I DO. 
I donated my Silver jubilee and 2x12 in a 4x12 cab to a mate that is going to grace the world with his musical talents 
This leaves me with nothing to grace my adoring wife with MY musical talents
So I have a Marshall valvestate combo with two 10" gold back celestion 30w speakers 4ohm that will be wired for a 2ohm 50w PT (Hammond 1750k) so far so good.
Till I found the useless tool.....
As said Tone Junkie put me onto a great circuit that being the Bogner XTC amp that I was only going to use the OD circuit and the JTM 30 clean and power circuits.
ON investigating the OD circuit, there was more to it and that was three channels in one, great......
and the clean channel was also intriguing......
I put pen to paper to see if it would all fit on a scale size drawing and using a layout similar the Doug's layouts it appeared to be a snug fit 
There is always a BUT, when the new chassis was made and a trial fit was done it was then the useless tool hit me, I was going to have to move the PT and OT towards the back of the chassis to miss one speaker this then means I will have to move the power tubes sideways leaving not enough room for all the tubes 
SO, remembering some past post on split chassis this could be the ticket.
Having the preamp tubes upstairs would give me vast real estate to play with and the possibilities of adding a tube FX loop.....
and the PI, power tubes and transformers downstairs......
OR I could make a new baffle board and move the speakers down to give the transformers more room
Cause of this being a HIGH gain build that is bound to have problems having the extra room upstairs would be great.
Pros and Cons of having split chassis.Thanks
 

[tubenit]

Timbo,

Just an observation, ...... when I think of amps with a split chassis design (like the Standel for example), ...... I am thinking of very low gain amps.  I can't remember any high gain amp with a split chassis design?  Not saying there isn't one, but I can not think of an example?

I personally would not attempt a split chassis design with a high gain amp.

With respect, Tubenit

[TIMBO]

Hey T, i'm thinking that even if I move the speakers and jamming all those gain stages into a chassis 22"x 8"x 3.5" might be a squeeze.

If the preamp was separate with 12Vdc heaters and relays would that not help keep some of those oscillation problems (transformers HV leads etc.) that are more associated with the power amp end away from sensitive things 
 

[sluckey]

If the preamp was separate with 12Vdc heaters and relays would that not help keep some of those oscillation problems (transformers HV leads etc.) that are more associated with the power amp end away from sensitive things

I think so. BTW, your OD tone stack would rather be connected to the cathode than B+.

[tubenit]

If the preamp was separate with 12Vdc heaters and relays would that not help keep some of those oscillation problems (transformers HV leads etc.) that are more associated with the power amp end away from sensitive things

I think that is a good point & makes it a reasonable risk to try. And I value Sluckey's opinion a lot so seeing him convey that it might work would add some validity to it in my book.

With respect, Tubenit

[terminalgs]

OR I could make a new baffle board and move the speakers down to give the transformers more room
Cause of this being a HIGH gain build that is bound to have problems having the extra room upstairs would be great.
Pros and Cons of having split chassis.Thanks
 

Does it help to simply move the PT and filter caps to a lower chassis?  like this: 

[TIMBO]

Thanks Sluckey, I was trying to find those past post on this type of setup but from memory it was only to controls that were at the top??
Are tube organs not built with a separate power amp to the organ bit??

Tgs, that is also a good idea but the OT will pose the same problem. Thanks

[terminalgs]

Tgs, that is also a good idea but the OT will pose the same problem. Thanks

What are the dimensions of cabinet?   with 2x10", the upper chassis must be must be 20+" wide, and it seems like you would have at least 8" of depth for the upper chassis.

the valvestates I've seen have a deep chassis (3"), if you use a 2" deep chassis, does the extra 1" provide enough clearance for the speakers?

(to your original post),   I'm not sure how the circuit being a high-gain circuit would make an upper & lower chassis design a problem.   put the pre-amp up top, and the PI+power tubes and transformers in the bottom chassis.  use RG174 to run the signal from the pre-amp to the PI.  Does RG174 have a max VAC?   

[Glennjeff]

You may need to consider the ground between the two chassis. It may need to be really robust, like some 30A automotive copper cable or some such. In radio work, sometimes a strip of copper sheet/plate is used for grounds as it is a better conductor at high frequencies.

[TIMBO]

Hi gs, The chassis is just under 22" long and is an odd shape but reducing the depth from 3.25" to 2.25" would increase the floor of the chassis from 5" to 7" approx. This would allow me to move the PT towards the front of the cab and allow the power tubes (6L6s) to be placed as you have drawn. The PT is about 3" (bell to bell) leaving 4" for the tubes   If this is doable I could have up to 5 preamp tubes, PI and two power tubes across the back this would give me a spacing of about 2.5" between tubes.

I still keen to run the heaters on 12vdc and can get a transformer that is 12v@5A so there is plenty left over for the relays, so this would be best to be mounted downstairs as it then would be only a 12v supply, HT supply and grounds in one cord????

OR having the PA separate with the extra signal wire to contend with????
mmmmmmmmmmmm what to do. Thanks

[sluckey]

I don't think running a shielded cable between a preamp chassis and a power amp chassis will be an issue. Here's a November amp (18 watt Plexi) that I stuffed into a tiny Vox cab. AC filaments, B+, ground, and signal were all run thru an octal socket/umbilical cord between the two chassis.

[terminalgs]

I still keen to run the heaters on 12vdc and can get a transformer that is 12v@5A so there is plenty left over for the relays, so this would be best to be mounted downstairs as it then would be only a 12v supply, HT supply and grounds in one cord????

OR having the PA separate with the extra signal wire to contend with????
mmmmmmmmmmmm what to do. Thanks

octal plug socket and plug is the probably the best/cheapest way to connect upper and lower chassis. You've got 8 connections to decide how to use.  If you want the 120VAC power switch on top,, 2 of the connections will be for the 120v SW.  2 more for the 6.3,  if you add 12.6v, that's 2 more,,  and you are down to 2 free, one for ground and a single for B+.   that means some of your filter caps need to move up (only the PT, rectifier, and first filter cap would be in the lower chassis.   This seems sub-optimal.

grounds via umbilical cord:  if you do it right, you can have a single ground for the circuit and the upper chassis come down via the umbilical.   A star-ground topology can still be done.   If you don't want to, for whatever reason, you can run two grounds via umbilical -or-, circuit ground via umbilical, and chassis ground with a ground strap of sorts attached with fasteners.

If you leave the 120VAC on bottom, it frees up 2 connections.

If 8 connections via the umbilical isn't enough, AMPHENOL made similar plugs/sockets in 9 or 10 pin configurations but they are $$$.    If you decide to use 2 umbilicals,  I'd suggest two dissimilar plugs so that, someday in the future, when being serviced, it cannot be connected incorrectly.  and, it mentioned in the other thread, but it bears repeating: live voltages on the female end of the socket only,  nothing live on the male end when not connected!

as for having both 6.3v for the 6L6s and 12.6v for the 12ax7s/relays  (starting to get complicated),  you can run the 12.6v via the umbilical as well, or have a 6.3:12.6 transformer up top.

sluckey:  awesome job on the Vox.

[TIMBO]

Hi guys. Thanks Sluckey, as always  

Term, Here is what I am thinking......
 Upstairs, preamp with a single on/standby/power switch and I want to use T's active FX loop with controls on back panel (set and forget) so having this up top lessens the real state, preamp with 12vdc heaters and relays

Downstairs, PI, PA, PT, OT, 12v tranny, SS plug/tube rectifier, A-B-C filter caps

So how many wires in the connection  
I have not done a single power switch so I am thinking that there would be two or three???(found it there is four)
Two for the heaters/relay
one for signal
one for HT
one for circuit ground (i'll do a separate chassis ground that i'll fix with bolt that can be undone to separate the two chassis)

PT i've got has 6.3vand 5v taps.so I could do the PI and PA tubes in either 12vdc or 6.3vac. Thanks

[tubenit]

Timbo,

I heard that amp in person that Sluckey posted the picture of.  Great amp. Great tone.  I forgot that it was designed that way.

BTW,  Sluckey is a really good guitar player!  Had a chance to do a jam with him and really had a super fun time. He knows a lot more music and songs than I do.

with respect, Tubenit

[terminalgs]

Hi guys. Thanks Sluckey, as always  

Term, Here is what I am thinking......
 Upstairs, preamp with a single on/standby/power switch and I want to use T's active FX loop with controls on back panel (set and forget) so having this up top lessens the real state, preamp with 12vdc heaters and relays

Downstairs, PI, PA, PT, OT, 12v tranny, SS plug/tube rectifier, A-B-C filter caps

So how many wires in the connection  
I have not done a single power switch so I am thinking that there would be two or three???(found it there is four)
Two for the heaters/relay
one for signal
one for HT
one for circuit ground (i'll do a separate chassis ground that i'll fix with bolt that can be undone to separate the two chassis)

PT i've got has 6.3vand 5v taps.so I could do the PI and PA tubes in either 12vdc or 6.3vac. Thanks

for the 6L6's you'll need 6.3v,

for power, you only need two connections/wires from the bottom to go up top.   you only need to open one leg of the 120VAC MAIN supply (you would use 4 if you want to use a DPDT to connect/disconnect BOTH main wires. not necessarily needed).

draw your layout on a big piece of paper, with upper chassis on one side and lower on the other...   draw lines(wires) between the two.  you'll start making decisions on what goes on top, and what goes on bottom.  have a look at a Magnatone M10 or M15 schematic.  they did a combo power/stand-by switch with an upper/lower chassis.

a power switch with standby will be tricky unless you are willing to make standby be a pre-amp stand-by only.  If you want to open B+ following the rectifier, that would require 2 more connections (up to the switch, and back down).   

if it were me, stand-by switch would go in the bottom chassis.

[sluckey]

a power switch with standby will be tricky unless you are willing to make standby be a pre-amp stand-by only.  If you want to open B+ following the rectifier, that would require 2 more connections (up to the switch, and back down).   

That's why he counted 4 wires for his PWR/STBY switch.

if it were me, stand-by switch would go in the bottom chassis.

Me too. In fact, I'd leave the Power switch on the bottom also. Then a common octal socket would work fine for B+, ground, filaments and shielded signal.

[TIMBO]

Hi guy's, Got the layout pretty much done and as you can see lots of room and short wire runs. I'm thinking that the dropping resistors between nodes will be mounted on circuit board with either the filter caps mounted on tag strips under the pots or at the right hand end of the circuit board.I think that the nodes can be grouped together as drawn and each node to have a 32uf cap.I'll be using three DPDT 12v relays. One for the OD/CLEAN channels and two,to switch together for the BLUE/RED channels and maybe a forth to engage the BOOST on each channel.I'll mount these under the pots for better access for connecting wires.
The plexi,brite and structure will be manual only.
I might put in two 12v LEDs at the r/hand end of the face plate to indicate the POWER and STANDBY as I will put the switches on the bottom chassis. I will make this separate to the other connections and use a DIN type plug.

This will be a MASSIVE build so I hope I have minimized any problems that come with HI GAIN builds. Thanks

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Got the chassis during the week and looks good for fit. Put together the PI and PA schematic with some Marshall/Fender values just not sure of the feedback resistor value and the 4.7k tail resistor, these might need tweaking. The PI may also be a 12AT7

[Glennjeff]

TIMBO, Hi from way out west.

Have you decided on a circuit for your 12V DC heater supply ? Would you mind sharing it?

I recently repaired a TubeTech 3 band valve compressor and it was running 12 V DC heaters, so I've got a circuit that could be used, just wondering what you had in mind.

All the best.

[TIMBO]

Hi Glennjeff, Just a simple circuit, with a separate transformer to heat the preamp tubes.

[Glennjeff]

Doh, sorry.

I keep forgetting that ExpressSCH has multiple sheets.

That is a lower parts count than the circuit I had in mind. Thanks.

I might choose to run +6.3/-6.3 twisted pair DC shielded, just for the geek value.

That's a nice preamp, hope you'll demo it for us when the time comes.

All the best.

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, The downstairs chassis is done, but not tested, i'll wait till I get the upstairs done. I haven't put the dropping resistor between nodes B & C this I will adjust to bring the PI up to a similar voltage to the Bassman. I also had to make a new baffle board to lift the speakers above the PT. So far so good. Thanks

[TIMBO]

Just a couple more. 

[Jack1962]

I don't think running a shielded cable between a preamp chassis and a power amp chassis will be an issue. Here's a November amp (18 watt Plexi) that I stuffed into a tiny Vox cab. AC filaments, B+, ground, and signal were all run thru an octal socket/umbilical cord between the two chassis.

The umbilical cord has been done in many amp builds and works very well (Curtis Mathis 7' TV HiFi ) use this for the supply voltage , run shielded cable down the other side of the cab for your input signal to your power amp , and there shouldn't be an issue's with oscillation and other inductive noise's .

[TIMBO]

Thanks Jack, The black 1/4" plug right of the 9 pin socket is the preamp signal connection and the 8 pin socket on the side next to the PT is all the power connections. 

[eleventeen]

Ain't that just great when you find out you have to move the speaker 1/2" because a tranny hits the speaker frame? I once modded a Princeton to accept a 12" speaker and found I had to *rotate* my deep-dish Altec speaker--the tranny actually poked quite noticeably into the space between spokes on the spkr frame. So I could use the same baffle board, but had to rotate the bolt pattern maybe 2". Bleh. Probably would not have been an issue with a JBL or almost any other not-so-deep spkr.

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, I'm about to start on the preamp board and the layout works well. Before I start drilling I need help with how I should arrange the HT. The schematic is how the layout works with the CLEAN channel being V1a&b and V2a, the OD is V2b and V3a&b, V4 tone stack driver and V5 the FX.
 At the moment I have grouped the clean channel as "G" the OD as "F" the tone stack driver as "E" and the FX as "D" and these nodes will be fed from "C" in the other chassis.
Also the corresponding grounds of each node will be separate to the others and only connected to a STAR ground
IS.....
Grouping the nodes per channel/driver/FX a good idea.
grouping the grounds per channel/driver/FX a good idea.
Arranging each tube in the chain as they appear on the schematic a good idea.
There any math on how much HT is applied to each node.
And I expect that the filtering of each node will play a big part.

Help needed.Thanks

[sluckey]

I think your grouping is fine. I would suggest changing some tube designations though...

   V1b to V2a
   V2a to V2b
   V2b to V1b

As drawn now, you have a very low level signal on V2b and a very high level signal on V2a. I prefer to not put dissimilar signal levels in the same bottle if possible. The changes I'm suggesting will keep your low level guitar input signal feeding into V1a and V1b. Should even simplify layout.

I would also use parallel B+ nodes in the preamp. Doing so allows you to change the B+ supply to any node without affecting any other node. And you will be able to use larger value dropping resistors which will provide even better decoupling between nodes. Here's an example...

[TIMBO]

Thanks for that advice Sluckey, I changed those triodes around and I think that it works well   So for a clear layout I've put it on "sheet 6". As for the DRIVER and FX it will stay the same as my original layout.
Now that I have rearranged the triodes i'm hoping that the node grouping will stay the same this way I can adjust the B+ and filtering for the clean, thoughts.Thanks

[teisco88]

Great thread...some great designs, too.  As a long-time Hammond B-3 player, I would like to remind everybody that the preamp and power amp can be separated by many _feet_, and the sound can be...well...fantastic.  B-3 to Leslie cables aren't shielded, either.  In fact, they have the disadvantage of carrying mains power in wires adjacent to the preamp signal wires in the same cable.  Things work just fine.  Guys have been modding additional gain into their B-3/C-3 preamps for years (I don't know why), and the arrangement STILL works.

[Stankfut]

Sluckey, that is a fantastic idea! I'm going to copy that for all my builds from now on

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, On to the next stage, RELAY SWITCHING/12VDC PSU.

I used the relay circuit from the Silver Jubilee, It works well with no switching noise and when the relay is OFF, the LED is ON so this works great for the Hi Gain circuit. I also found that I if put a LED parallel to the COIL, it turns ON when the relay is ON and I can used this as the channel indicator.

So I need a PSU, The bottom circuit is from the Jubilee and the top is a standard regulated circuit that can power heartes/relays.
Would one be the better way to go, or anyone have another circuit?????? "sheet4" Thanks

[sluckey]

I like the top circuit just because it's full wave and regulated. More sophisticated. However, a simple half wave unregulated supply is more than adequate to energize a relay. Simple, low parts count has it's own advantages. It might be a coin toss, or it may simply depend on the AC voltage input that's available at the time.

I would put despiking diodes across every relay coil.

[TIMBO]

Thanks Sluckey, I have a separate transformer for this job, it has a 9,12 and 15v taps @2A and the regulator is rated @3A and the relays draw 44mAs, so in total should add up to with 5 tubes Approx. 882mAs

Would using both be overkill, the regulated for the relays and the other for the heaters??

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Just a couple of questions before I load up the boards.

All of the info for the preamp was obtained off "the net" and taken with some reservations but with some help from Tone Junkie i'm confident that it will work so we will push on regardless.

To me it has a very Marshall look with voltage dividers (if that is the right term) dotted through out the circuit and when compared to a marshall circuit these are normally two 470k resistors. This circuit has them as 500k resistors which are not a standard size that I can get.....
SO, I either parallel two 1M resistors,up them to 510k or drop to the usual 470k 

I will adopt slucky's idea with the dropping resistors of the HT supply.Thanks
I was then going to return each nodes grounds( Cathodes, pots....) to the CAPs ground as a STAR ground and tie each of these to either the preamp chassis or connect the caps to the power amp chassis via the umbilical cord.
NOTE:- the two chassis will be EARTHED via a separate cable bolted to each chassis.
Not sure what to do here?? Thanks   

[DummyLoad]

run all the high current supply grounds (2) to one ground lug including the CT for B+ winding.

run wall (IEC) ground to it's own ground lug that's attached to the chassis with a power transformer screw.

run the low current supply grounds (1) to their own ground lug.

i've never build a split chassis, so i'm guessing here too.  this is the blind leading the blind here...hopefully one of our experts will chime in.

modified your file and attached is how i'd build it;

respectfully,

--pete

[HotBluePlates]

... This circuit has them as 500k resistors which are not a standard size that I can get.....
SO, I either parallel two 1M resistors,up them to 510k or drop to the usual 470k 

6 of one, half-dozen of the other. All the methods you mention are the same in my book.

I will adopt slucky's idea with the dropping resistors of the HT supply.Thanks
I was then going to return each nodes grounds( Cathodes, pots....) to the CAPs ground as a STAR ground and tie each of these to either the preamp chassis or connect the caps to the power amp chassis via the umbilical cord.
NOTE:- the two chassis will be EARTHED via a separate cable bolted to each chassis.
Not sure what to do here?? Thanks   

I approached my Standel build a little differently than you're doing with your amp. Biggest difference (other than having the power switch on the preamp chassis) was using 6-pin XLR jacks and a matching cable for the power. I ran signal cabling separately in a 3-conductor cable (but I needed 2 signal wires for the phase inverter output).

If not already accounted for, you can have one of the wires in your octal cable be ground. It quite literally will connect from a power supply ground in your lower chassis to a power supply ground in your upper chassis. You shouldn't need an extra wire to bond the chasses together, unless you're worried the octal plug may come loose at some point (on my amp, the cable plugs lock into the jacks, so they're never coming loose).

Other than that, it's hard for me to envision your wiring/grounding scheme, as I did a few other things differently. Not necessarily better, but different.

[TIMBO]

Thanks Guys,I ended up going with DLs idea, tying the preamp PS caps grounds together and from each of the caps - are tied to the corresponding grounds for that node and as DL has it, these grounds are connected VIA the umbilical cord to a bolt on the lower chassis. At this stage there is NO ground connection the to the upper chassis, this is why I was thinking of a separate bolted ground connection to each chassis. Safety reason only.

The umbilical cord only carries power supplies and ground and a separate signal cable will used. Thanks 

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Got the relay installed http://www.el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=15987.0 and works great.

[terminalgs]

At this stage there is NO ground connection the to the upper chassis, this is why I was thinking of a separate bolted ground connection to each chassis.

You'll want upper chassis to be grounded.  It doesn't matter if you use the ground in the umbilical or a separate wire, but you want it grounded for RF shielding and, safety (like you said).   you want to have 0ohm on the upper chassis to the ground pin of the power plug.

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Upper chassis is complete and working great. Got some buzz and at the moment I don't believe that its coming from the heaters or the relay circuits...........

I do want to get the node voltages in some kinda ballpark that would suit that part of the circuit. I think that what I have looks OK.

I would also like any suggestions on tubes to use in the 12a_7 department.

Tubenit, I have used the active FX circuit and works well but if you could supply some voltages just to check i'm in the ballpark for this circuit.Thanks 

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Again trying to track down a BUZZ  So after lots of things tried, i'm down to disconnecting all nodes from PSU and till have buzz. Disconnected upper chassis at PI and no buzz.

So if there is on power to the tubes then a coupling buzz is getting into the signal path and then amplified by the PA
No guitar is plugged in and the buzz very faint but connect any of the nodes and the buzz is amplified as you would expect. 

[TIMBO]

Back again, I think that I found the problem, I was always under the impression that the DC supply would be "FLOATING" and thus the circuit from the rectifier on would NOT be connected to the chassis ground.

So I started thinking  (a cold beer would be nice, MMMMMMMMMMMMMM BEEEEER  )
I have no idea why I thought of this but I grounded the - side of the PSU and it killed the buzz dead, is this alright to do. 

[tubenit]

Tubenit, I have used the active FX circuit and works well but if you could supply some voltages just to check i'm in the ballpark for this circuit.Thanks  icon_biggrin

On the 56T PLUS, the FX is 249v & 102v on the plates , ........ BUT that is using a 12AV7.  I have no idea what a 12AX7 would be, other then significantly higher volts.

To be honest,  ................. I never pay that much attention to voltages. If it sounds good & is safe. I'm happy.

I'll be back inside the 56T this wkend to add relay switching.  I can pop in a 12AX7 and check voltages on it, if you want me to?

I will say the active FX on board has become a "must have" for me.  Very useful for tone shaping and as a master volume, IMO.

with respect, Tubenit

[tubenit]

I have no idea why I thought of this but I grounded the - side of the PSU and it killed the buzz dead, is this alright to do.

Hopefully, Sluckey will weigh in on this?   

I had a  Weber VST relay board at one point that used a ground to chassis. It worked OK. It was somewhat  noisier than the Hoffman board, IMO & I removed it.

With respect, Tubenit

[sluckey]

I grounded the - side of the PSU and it killed the buzz dead, is this alright to do.

yes

[TIMBO]

Thanks 

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Well i'm stoked, the build has turned out fantastic  I'm very pleased with the noise level, only a small amount of hum but it is hard to hear when the amp is sitting on the floor.

The overall sound is very marshall.

Channel 1 - Clean, is clean and crispy with nice breakup when cranked. Has a brite sw. that adds some accent to the treble without getting too brittle/brite. Boost sw. adds some depth/clarity as well as some drive but not heavy metal.
Channel 2 - Blue, mildly marshall with good blues tone can be cranked to do some JOE. Again has brite sw. that adds some more mids to the humbuckers. Boost again adds some nuts and can be pushed to get wicked distortion/breakup. This channel has a STRUCTURE sw. that adds some nice depth and tonal boosts (a bit hard to describe).
Channel 3 - Red, (blue with extra gain stage)totally marshall cranked but can be controlled to clip the signal into any degree of distortion from blues to metal.This channel also has the brite, boost and structure modes.
Channel 4 - Plexi, Even with the 6L6s the plexi god lives. This circuit uses the red or blue gain/volume controls but bypasses two gain stages to give an awesome plexi sound that is best cranked to MAX.

The FX circuit is a winner, can be bypassed but when in use works very well as a master volume with very little extra gain. this is great with the clean and blue channel.

The relay is very quiet no pops in switching.

The circuit was found on the "net" and no idea whether it would work, so if you need a marshall sound with different levels of OD this will kick all kinds of ass. I think that a head with EL34s and a quad box would do any kind of music that you could throw at it.

The bias is set at 50mA on pin1&8 and approx. output is 50w. but with the FX master can be turned down bedroom level without any sound loss.

A BIG thanks to Tone Junkie for steering in the right direction on this one  Thanks

[tubenit]

What a magnificent build!  Bravo!  Congrats on your accomplishment.

 

It has been great fun watching this thread and your progress.  Man, I love your innovation and boldness in pulling this off. Very cool.

Thanks for the tone review also.  IF possible, I hope somewhere down the line, you can share some sound clips.

Let's be sure to get this in the SCH Library with any other info that you think someone who is attempting this build should be mindful of.

Thanks for sharing!  With respect, Tubenit

[HotBluePlates]

That's a serious machine you built there Timbo!! Amazing job!