For reference:
PART NUMBERING SPECIFICATIONS FOR TYPE 1 & TYPE 4
EXAMPLE: 4EB2C1B
DIGIT #1 - REVERB TYPE
1 for Type 1 or 4 for Type 4
DIGIT #2 - INPUT IMPEDANCE
A = 8 Ohm
B = 150 Ohm
C = 200 Ohm
D = 250 Ohm
E = 600 Ohm
F = 1475 Ohm
DIGIT #3 - OUTPUT IMPEDANCE
A = 500 Ohm
B = 2250 Ohm
C = 10000 Ohm
DIGIT #4 - DECAY TIME
1 = Short (1.2 to 2.0 sec)
2 = Medium (1.75 to 3.0 sec)
3 = Long (2.75 to 4.0 sec)
DIGIT #5 - CONNECTORS
A = Input Grounded / Output Grounded
B = Input Grounded / Output Insulated
C = Input Insulated / Output Grounded
D = Input Insulated / Output Insulated
E = No Outer Channel
DIGIT #6 - LOCKING DEVICES
1 = No Lock
DIGIT #7 - MOUNTING PLANE
A = Horizontal Open Side Up
B = Horizontal Open Side Down
C = Vertical Connectors Up
D = Vertical Connectors Down
E = On End Input Up
F = On End Output Up
My question is: I often get dead Peavey amps, etc; that have (based upon the above code) 600 ohm input impedance reverb tanks.
What's the best strategy to use such in a Fender reverb circuit driven by the usual little SE output tranny? If it's possible.
I assume the 8 ohm output would massively overdrive the 600 ohm tank, by roughly a 100:1 factor.
One thought would be to build a 100:1 voltage divider, say, a a 10 ohm resistor in series with a .22 ohm (which is about 45:1) and assume that a 12AU7 goes in for the reverb driver tube, then drive the tank from across the .22 ohm. Or, an 18 ohm or a 22 ohm in series with the .22 ohm, obviously the voltage divider would have to be massaged to provide a usable reverb-knob-rotation range. I'd be happy to swap in a 12AU7 for the normal 12AT7 driver, then I would perhaps stop having my negative view of 12AU7s as usable items.
Anyone ever successfully tried such a thing? Or have an opinion?
I will likely be trying such a schema on an experimental basis, just wondering if anyone has done it before.