Breadboard: The process of construction has begun.....

[Jack_Hester]

Added another component (thermistors) to Reply #45.
 
Jack

[Jack_Hester]

Being on 2nd shift, for the rather lengthy startup of our Unit 2, I'm able to get in some morning shop time. 
 
I have the PT secondary brought out to the barrier terminal strip on the side.  Also, brought the OT taps (primary and secondary) out to the topside barrier strip.  Now, I need to bring the three filament transformer secondaries out to the side strip, along side the PT output.  Then, I'll be ready for some simple trial builds, with my Russian tubes. 
 
Hopefully, I'll have more to post, tomorrow.  Have a good one.
 
Jack

[Jack_Hester]

Well, I managed to complete the transformer wiring, out to the topside.  Filaments were the last, 5v-CT, 6.3v-CT, and 12.6v-CT, to complete this task. 

I foolishly thought that I would have time to maybe wire up the rectifier board, and actually try something out.  Maybe tomorrow morning.  Little by little, it's winding down to a completed project, and a fine tool.  I won't post pictures of today's progress, as it barely looks any different from the ones posted.  When I'm able to wire something up, that's when I snap a few.  More to come.  Have a good one. 

Jack

[Jack_Hester]

If you will look up at Reply #22, at the 1rst picture, you will see my rectifier board. 
 
 I completed wiring on that board, this morning.   I used the outside 4 terminals on each side, top and bottom, to wire the sockets.  As it turned out, I was able to use the inside 4 terminals, top and bottom, to install 4 1N4007 diodes, and make a full-wave bridge rectifier. 
 
 I'll try to snap a picture of the completed board, but you can probably picture how I did it.
 
 It was very time consuming, but very rewarding, as I'm still on 2nd shift, and limited to a short periods of free time for such.  I will be back on days next week. 
 
 Anyway, more to come, as I'm able to start using the breadboard, for it's intended purpose.  Have a good one. 
 
 Jack

[Willabe]

     I'm watching this thread Jack.



            Brad     

[Jack_Hester]

Though I haven't snapped a picture of the rectifier board, here is a drawing of the wiring, and the placement of the diodes and jumpers for the full-wave rectifier.  Please check my full-wave layout and comment on any errors or improvements.  Thanks.

Jack

[Jack_Hester]

As minor as it may seem, I enjoy little successes.  Meaning that I had a successful test of my rectifier board, yesterday afternoon.  Made me aware of how undersized my PT was, for what I intend to do.  It is an Edcor 460v (230v-0-230v).  Fortunately, their 700v (350v-0-350v) has the same footprint as mine.  So, a bit of my Spring overtime has one of those on the way.  According to their records, I purchased the other in '11.  I need to start marking this stuff with it's intended purpose.  As it was, I had it on a shelf, no labels. 

The use of terminal strips for connections, on the underside of the panel, makes for an easy swap, disturbing no other wiring/connections. 

So, the next board to install wiring will be my 4 x 9-pin socket board.  Then maybe, my capacitor board.  Though my first project calls for 22uf caps in the PS, my cap board has 20's and 100's that I can use to build a temporary PS for more testing.  I may even have most of the other components to start the initial layout. 

I put in an order to Mouser for everything that I would need to make these builds on the BB (a little more overtime pay gone).  I'm think that I'll use this opportunity to organize my components.  I picked a Stanley box with removable cups (from Home Depot, I think) a while back.  I'll use my label maker to mark them with the component value and wattage (resistors) or voltage (capacitors), on the inside of the plastic cup.  I'll put the corresponding part number(s) on the outside.  I'm thinking that by the end of the year, I should have just about everything I have on hand, where I can find them.  Including the neat old components that I've managed to salvage.  The reason I chose a box over a cabinet with small drawers is for portability, and visibility (all at once) when I open the top. 

I have another brand of box (maybe from Lowes) that has larger cups.  I can put a few of my most-used tubes in that one.  The Stanley has 2 or 3 large cups that will do well for caps.  My plans for that brand is to have a couple boxes, move the larger cups into one (for caps, only), and smaller cups into the other (for resistors and other small components). 

Anyway, I'll snap pictures when I have something more complete.  Have a good one. 

Jack

[Jack_Hester]

Not quite out of the woods, as far as the long hours at work.  No project work this Saturday.  But, I've got some time off next week.  So, I'll get in some early morning (read that as cool temps) work, then. 

I'm still working on my 4 x 9-pin socket board, when I can.  Didn't figure it would take so long.  But, I'm revising my socket board configuration, for future BB builds.  When I finished one 9-pin socket, I used a Sharpie to mark where each pin connected on the terminal strip.  I've decided to do that different, next time.  Take a look at my proposed configuration.  The leads will pass through the board, in line with each pin, and connect to the terminal strip.  No guessing as to where the lead is attached. 

Also, (have not drawn this, yet) I will standardize on the size of all socket boards, and not put as many on the panel.  The layout board will still be long.  But, I will move it approximately 2" away from each rail.  My present layout is a tight squeeze to slip a pot or jack in, for mounting.  I made the rail mountings such that the rail is easy to remove.  So, no mods necessary on this one.  The next will have sufficient clearance, eliminating the need for removal. 

I used very small barrier terminal strips in several places.  I shall not use them (small strips) again.  They flex very easy, and it feels like the terminal can be twisted out.  Not so, with the heavier terminal strips.  On the next layout board, I will use all medium sized, outside edges and center.  I will elevate the outside strips slightly, to give clearance over the center strip.  The Radio Shack and Mouser medium sized strips are sturdy, and can be used without issue. 

As I finish this BB, I will comment on improvements to the next.  And like Silvergun did for his builds, I will begin a new thread for that one.  I'm hoping this stuff is helpful.  It sure is fun, when I am able to do a little.  More to come.  Have a good one.

Jack