Stout Chassis Revisions

[EL34]

This is the current list of revisions for Batch #2 of the Stout chassis

I have not submitted the new CAD drawings yet
Just making sure everything look good on paper before I do
Top Panel Changes:
Extra holes in last tube socket hole for Cap clamp bracket. Hole can be used for upright FT cap
One more 9 pin socket hole for a total of three 9 pin socket holes
Larger PT hole for Tremolux sized PT with endbell
Ground screw hole added

Front Panel changes:
Pot holes spaced further apart for longer chicken head knobs
Two more pot holes added for a total of seven
Pilot light hole diameter increased to .38 inches
Front panel holes moved down 1/4 inch. More room above the pots for text that may get blocked once mounted in a cabinet

Rear panel Changes:
Rotary Impedance selector hole moved to last hole after speaker jacks
Distance between power switch and speaker jack increased

Side panel Changes:
Cap clamp holes changed for new style clamp
Cap clamp hole moved back so you can use Marshall style pilot light

Now you guys have to help use up the existing supply
I put them on sale on this page for $38
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/Chassis.htm

[DummyLoad]

have you a drawing of the rear?


--pete

[EL34]

Nothing has changed on the rear except the hole size for the rotary switch

It needs .39" hole
Jacks are .375 inch holes

So the last hole is now .39 inch in diameter and the previous switch hole is back to being .375 inch

[DummyLoad]

Nothing has changed on the rear except the hole size for the rotary switch

It needs .38" hole
Jacks are .375 inch holes

So the last hole is now .38 inch in diameter and the previous switch hole is back to being .375 inch

are you going to increase the space between the power switch and the output jacks?

--pete

[EL34]

Had not thought of that, is that a problem?

Has not been an issue on my two builds?


Last build was quiet as a mouse

[DummyLoad]

Had not thought of that, is that a problem?

Has not been an issue on my two builds?


Last build was quiet as a mouse

no, but it just seemed like a good idea keeping AC as far as possible from output jacks. my thoughts were it could be an issue in higher gain dumblish type builds: such a build is conceivable with the third hole for a preamp bottle...

--pete

[EL34]

I added a couple 3D images to post #1


Is that it for the feedback?
No one has anything to add or comment about?

[Ken Moon]

 

It looks like you incorporated everyone's comments nicely.

The expanded list of PTs will allow even more amp designs to use your chassis.

Great job!

[EL34]

Oh, yeah, thanks for reminding me
I'll go grab that PT list and post it here.

Thanks again to Pete for this list

NEW stout chassis PT compatibility.


18WPT - Heyboer 18W PT - 580VCT @ 120mA 5V/6V@ 2A 6.3VCT @ 3A| 120/240V pri
758 - Hoffman/Mojo - 710VCT @ 300mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3V @ 3.75A | 120V pri
758EX+ - Hoffman/Mojo; Export version of 758 - same as 758 above | 100/120/220/230/240V pri
290MX^ - Hammond AC30 reissue - 550VCT @ 230mA 5VCT @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 6A | 120/240V pri
290CX - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P26A clone - 650VCT @ 207mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3V @ 4A  | 120V pri
291CX+ - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P26A clone - same as 290CX above made w/ M6 plate for cooler opr.
290CEX+ - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P31A clone - same as 290CX above | 240V pri
291CEX+ - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P31A clone - same as 290CX above made w/ M6 plate for cooler opr. | 240V pri
290UX^ - Hammond Fender Hot Rod Deluxe - 308V @ 250mA 39V @ 250mA 6.6V @ 3.75A | 117V pri
290LX*^ - Hammond Marshall JTM45 - 600VCT @ 230mA no bias 5V @ 2A 6.3V @ 4A 12 | 120/240V pri
290KX*^ - Hammond Marshall JCM900 - 330V @ 100mA 41VCT @ 100mA 6.57VCT @ 2.5A | 120/240V pri
290PAZ^ - Hammond Marshall 18W - 590CT @ 140mA 5V @ 2A 6.3VCT @ 3A | 120/240V pri
290PX^ - Hammond Vox AC15 - 630VCT @ 92mA 5VCT @ 3A 6.66VCT @ 4A | 120/240V pri
273CZ - Hammond Generic - 650VCT @ 172mA 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 5A | 117/125V pri
373CZ^ - Hammond Generic - 650VCT @ 172mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 5A | 100/110/120/200/220/240V pri
373DZ^ - Hammond Generic - 700VCT @ 104mA 50V bias 5VCT @ 2A 6.3VCT @ 3A | 100/110/120/200/220/240V pri
40-18041 - Classictone BF Vibrolux; 125P26A clone - 650VCT @ 180mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 4.5A | 120V pri
40-18096^ - Classictone BF Vibrolux Export: 125P31A clone - same as 40-18041 above | 100/120/200/220/230/240V pri
40-19075^ - Classictone JCM900 50W - 332V @ xxxmA 40VCT @ xxxmA 6.3VCT @ xA | 120/240V pri
40-18076^ - Classictone JCM2000 50W - 350V @ xxxmA 44CT @ xxmA 6.3VCT @ xA | 120/240V pri
W022723^ - Weber 125P26A clone - 640VCT @ 200mA 45V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 6A | 120/125V pri
P-TF22723 - AES/NSC 125P26A/036483 clone - 650VCT @ 180mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 4A | 120V pri


^ = fit not verified, however mfg. end bell window cut-out data and hole spacing data correlate.
+ = fit not verified, however, same part family as one that fit, so should fit.
* = minor fitment may be required such as slight enlarging of mtg. holes and/or end bell window.


if an end bell does not fit, but the mounting holes do, then you have the option of removing the end bell. be careful removing the nuts
that secure the end bell. check beforehand as they may be varnished in place: if that's the case, then removing the end bell wouldn't be recommended.


--pete

[brown4308]

Oh man at the crazy builds I'm going to do with these!

[crgfrench]

Apologies if I missed this in another thread -- I was curious about the rationale for having the tube sockets on the front side directly under the input and pots?  Is it to facilitate P2P builds?  Usually I see the sockets on the back side with the board between the pots (front side) and the tube wiring (back side).  I'm concerned about the heater wiring running right alongside the input & pots wiring with this design.  Not being critical, just wondering what was the reasoning for this same-side design.  Thanks!

[EL34]

Apologies if I missed this in another thread -- I was curious about the rationale for having the tube sockets on the front side directly under the input and pots?  Is it to facilitate P2P builds?  Usually I see the sockets on the back side with the board between the pots (front side) and the tube wiring (back side).  I'm concerned about the heater wiring running right alongside the input & pots wiring with this design.  Not being critical, just wondering what was the reasoning for this same-side design.  Thanks!

Look at the pdf layout diagram on the library page

The layout makes perfect sense
And there are 100's of these chassis out there in the wild without anyone having issues