> the schematic with the PAB mod.
The "mid shift" red mod must be a typo; it does not do anything as drawn. Need to cut the black line under it. There should be a cap there stock, we's just changing the cap value.
The "PAB relay" is a complicated way to do essentially the same thing as breaking (or greatly increasing) the ground leg of the mid resistor, here R8 1.5K. Both ways end up feeding the next tube stage through the Treble pot. But with nothing else loading the treb pot, this will be essentially full-range full-strength audio, +/-0.5dB 40Hz-20KHz, -3dB at 20Hz.
R8 (here 1.5K) is Fender's location for a "Mid" pot. What the mid pot really does is cut *everything* down, an adjustable amount, then the Bass Treb pots add-back their ends. It's a cheap knob and somewhat useful.
A known mod is to replace the MID resistor/pot with something that can go MUCH higher resistance. That is what Sluckey was suggesting. A 25K variable resistor will have the stock-like 1.5K resistance down at the low end of the dial, but turn it to the high resistance end and the "cut-down everything" function is foiled, it all comes out full strength. An "audio taper" pot is best, because you can easily dial-up values like 0.5K or 1.5K or 3K (near stock tone) in the first 7/10th of a turn, then go all the way for no cut-back full-tone.
A simple switch under R8 gives you stock/LOUD, and is a popular choice.
> not quite like the location joostin posted in another forum. He added the PAB switch in a different location and left R8 alone.
Shop around. Try all possible variations.
Personally, I would not mess around in a MusicMan. They are fairly unique, and if not collectable now, probably will be in some years.