The traditional approach (and it's not without its flaws) to troubleshooting a cap can is to bridge the individual sections one at a time with single-unit external e-caps of appropriate ufd value and working volts. You have to be very mindful to solder in one "bridge" cap, observe/listen for the reduction of hum, if any, then when you turn the amp off, do not put it in stby. Let the cooling-down tubes help drain off charge from the cap you threw in for a few minutes.
You say you have changed the tubes. One at a time or all of them at once? Often something or other can be determined if you start at the small end and pull them one at a time and run the amp minus 1 tube, 2 tubes, etc;
If it was working OK and then stopped and the complaint is hum, you can't really say you've checked things out until the most common culprit, the cap can, has been diagnosed. You can't just think it's OK if it was replaced 3 years ago or was replaced last week.
It is ALSO possible that you have a heater-to-cathode short but these are pretty rare. Yet, with rough handling like you have in a guitar amp that gets dragged around, this too can happen. But you've chged tubes, so....no.
You say there is some interaction with the reverb control and this hum. The reverb driver gets almost the highest volts in the amp and you will see if you try to pull that tube after the amp has been on for a while, that 12AT7 runs substantially hotter than any other little 12A_7 tube. Can easily burn your fingers, not just "hot".
This points to the highest B+, the most likely ecap to fail with the most volts on it. Like it or not, them's the odds.