I will bring up two possible variations, neither one of which is astoundingly great, but just sayin'...
One is to move the OT to the far end of the amp, the preamp end. Yeah, sucks, especially on a clean brand new build (mine was already a PR and it was already chopped and "stock" was but a memory. But really, what are we talking about? Four screws, 5 wires. Not the end of the world. Been working OK for 35+ years in my '68 PR. I would not rely just on heat shrink to run full B+ across the chassis like that. I used: heat shrink, then jacketing from some coax around the heat-shrink splices, then bigger jacketing around the whole bundle. 2-3 Nylon cable clamps as it runs over the chassis.
The other is, you can probably very very carefully devise a particular rotation of the speaker where the OT pokes into the space between spokes on the frame. You wouldn't be able to do this on an older Jensen speaker that is nearly a solid cone but with perforations...meaning, it retains most of its "cone" form factor. But I was able to do this using an Altec 417 speaker that has a fearsome deep frame. Had to remake the baffle board and of course that means taking off the grille cloth, redrilling, moving the "T" nuts if you are using that method.
Both of these are of course a big PITA, I only mention them so you know they are possible. For mine....I think I had to do BOTH (!)