Motorcycle battery terminals?

[PRR]

I haven't messed with motocycles in decades. But long-story, we stored a friend's older Harley over the winter.

Now he wants to start it. He didn't take the battry out, it sat in zero weather while it slid to 6 Volts. Not good, but (after he got it out!) it seemed to take a charge.

I have never seen a battery terminal like this. A cube drilled three ways?

Apparently this IS the standard motocycle batt terminal, as seen here:
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ATX20LBS-Specialty-Powersports-Battery/dp/B007IPL0PY

WTF is supposed to connect to that?? We found a too-long bolt, nut that jams inside the cube-hole, and a nice copper spacer to cover the too-long bolt. Also the battery case is melted where the copper spacer was. It doesn't just look like bad mechanics, apparently it was bad enough to heat the copper.

Is this (below) the default connection?
http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/bkm-15-1723
(And why didn't the last guy blow 2 bucks for it?)

Is this something I'd find at NAPA? Or do I go to a Harley dealer? Or do I pay $13 shipping for a $2 part?

Is there a better connection? Maybe snap or clamp? The wires force the batt terminals to be way behind the batt, inaccessible. Getting a stack of ring-crimp, washer, and screw in there is dang awkward. (Easier once we took the seat off.)

[PRR]

Clever detective work (I looked on the front) I determined this is a "Super Glide". Which covers a lot of specific models over many years. Does appear to be a desirable beast, worth good wiring (now it's all bad crimp splices).

Yes, that is an S&S carb and hat, but I don't think it is S&S engine. By finish quality or by provenance.

Side of bike, and top of battery in frame: 

[SILVERGUN]

Is this (below) the default connection?
http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/bkm-15-1723

Yes Sir....that squared off nut is supposed to slide in and be held from spinning by the  inside walls of the cube.

Is there a better connection?

Probably, but most new batteries actually come with the square nut/short bolt combo and no one ever upgrades, cause it works...50/50 whether you use the new hardware or not. Depends on how badly you mangled the phillips head during install.

As you can imagine,, a bunch of spliced connections could have been causing a heavier than usual draw and could be the culprit for the melted terminal connection.....besides a possible loose nut- bolt- ring terminal condition

If you had to resort to $15 for the part, I'd much rather put that towards the $50 new battery at Chinamart than have a beautiful day ruined by an ignition switch that yields no results..

Me:
I'm a lone rider. I wear heated gear in the winter and it will expose a weak battery....especially if you shut the bike off and sit there for a couple minutes before you realize you are still plugged in.
One winter day, I arrived at the river to do some bald eagle watching @ 2pm...went to leave at about 3:30 and pressed the little red button only to get no crank. Of course, I had come down a big hill to get to the side of the river, so pop starting was out.
So lucky that this eagle watching thing is a big hit, cause there was a friendly car with jumper cables and the tragedy was averted.

Most seasonal riders wind up just doing a battery a year as preventive maintenance.
Worth every penny.

it seemed to take a charge.

So did mine

Best way to get his wiring straightened out is to use a terminal block to add proper power points and then just run a single wire/ring terminal back to the battery..they even make 'em programmable so his heated gear will shut off before he goes dead. Or vice-versa, have the heated gear circuit delayed until after start up so your not compounding draw with the starter.
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/denali-powerhub2-power-distribution-wiring-harness-module

On a budget, just get a fuse block: (or DIY one)
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rivco-6-circuit-fuse-block

[SILVERGUN]

Missed his kick start lever the first time around.
I want one.

[Jack_Hester]

Not knowing the VIN/serial number (should be on the right-front case, the configuration says early Low Rider ('77->).  They evolved from the Super Glide model.  A buddy and I reworked his '75 Super Glide to have 3-1/2 gallon tanks and the speedo/tach console like the Low Rider.  Same as that in your picture.

Though those bikes came with kickstarters, they are easy to add to the 4-speed trannys.  Like on the Electra-Glides, though you will have to change the pipes for clearance.  That being said, you could buy a kickstart arm that extended out past the pipes, back in the day.  I have the complete assembly (OEM) to put on my totaled '76 Electra-Glide, one of these days.  But, only for turning the engine over when working on the lifters, or adjusting the points.  Other than that, I prefer a pushbutton over kickstart when available. 

Jack

[pompeiisneaks]

I too can confirm my Suzuki VStrom 1100DL has that same type of battery connector.  I think its pretty standard nowadays.  Mine came with a bolt that threads in, and I connect the flat post with the hole through that bolt to the terminal.  So far I have had 0 problems with it and have not only driven it a lot one summer as my commute ride, but I also have had it sit over winter a few times with no use (I had it on a trickle charger though, to keep it topped off).

~Phil

[PRR]

VIN is on frame head. Rusty but readable. I'll have to catch it at dusk and take a picture; I can't transcribe that many digits while bent over.

This kick-start feels broken; goes right down. Does it have to be in/out of gear? Probably won't mess with it: not my bike, and no chance I can kick it over.

Understand wanting electric start. When you work it out, a H-D V-twin is 1/4 of a 300CID V-8. I'd never dream of starting a high-compression (>4:1) V-8 by hand/foot. Put a bar on it to turn for valve work, but not starting speed. While the big H-D is "only" 1/4 of say a Chevy 305, the peak cranking effort (over the top of each cylinder) is the *same* as the V-8. As I can barely yank a 205cc Honda-clone generator, no way will I yank/stomp *two* 600+cc cylinders.

(Also my cousin kicked his Norton, it kicked back, and pulled his Achilles tendon out.)

I did drive a 134CID Four for a week without any starter. That Willys was so loose, and eager, that I could park on the least slope, let it roll, pop clutch, and drive away. It also failed in lower Delaware, flatter than a pancake, and my two friends push-started the 3,600lb beast in a few feet.

[Jack_Hester]

See if this helps with the VIN: 

http://www.tabperformance.com/harley-davidson-vin-reference-guide-s/224.htm

Don't like the sound of the kickstart issue.  Missing parts, maybe.  Can't imagine why.  Could be a sheared key.  That warrants an inspection.  Looking at the picture, the brake pedal/footpeg will need to come off.  Rear pipe.  Possibly front pipe.  Clutch arm can be removed from the top of the kickstart cover.  All your lube will run out. 

When you get inside, no telling what you'll find, but all this is best done of you can get the beast off the floor.  If not, you'll be sitting on the floor (puts my legs to sleep) or bending over from a stool (hope you have a good back).  Young folks to this stuff better. 

Jack

[shooter]

it kicked back

One of the *coolest* images of my dad, broken leg from wreaking the last motorcycle, now trying to kick start his Indian, over the handlebars he hangs, casted leg n all

[Jack_Hester]

One of the secrets is to have a boot with a defined heel.  If not, you foot can slip right off, and you get to hobble around for a bit.  Get in the habit of kicking with your toe slightly pointed up.

Jack

[PRR]

> See if this helps with the VIN: 

Thanks.

I had ass-umed it was 17 digit VIN, and printed those pages to take to the bike. When I looked again, that made no sense. I found 10 digits, should have 9. After some head-butts (the shed is cramped) I figured "11" might be "H".

9D = FXE - 1200
{serial}
H7 = 1977

"In 1974, the FX was joined by the FXE, a version of the Super Glide with an electric starter. Both versions also got an exclusive one-piece tank instead of the Fat Bob tank used by the FL."
"The FXE Super Glide was discontinued in 1985"

So the big frame/engine with the small forks, plus electric start, made 1977. 39 years young. Aftermarket seat, bags, windshield, etc. Clean examples are asking $5K-$10 online. This is rough but doesn't need much to be a $3K? rider.
___________________________

me> battery terminal ...Is this something I'd find at NAPA? Or do I go to a Harley dealer? Or do I.....

Showed the picture at NAPA today. They don't have it loose, but thought (as SilverGun said) it might come with the battery.

There's an Indian dealer east of here, a YamaHondaKawa dealer north of me.

It is not my bike and I'm told it needs a clutch. Meanwhile our Odyssey has had a massive brake shudder for months, the Miata runs rough and smells bad, and last night the Accord started spurting brake juice and winking the idiot light. I may tell my friend to find a trailer and drag the hawg out of here any way he likes. His clutch-guy can surely do-up the battery.

[Ritchie200]

"Meanwhile our Odyssey has had a massive brake shudder for months, the Miata runs rough and smells bad, and last night the Accord started spurting brake juice and winking the idiot light."

Wow, what devious thing did you do in a past life?!?!?!  Hope you get everything straightened out!

Jim

[SILVERGUN]

It is not my bike and I'm told it needs a clutch. Meanwhile our Odyssey has had a massive brake shudder for months, the Miata runs rough and smells bad, and last night the Accord started spurting brake juice and winking the idiot light. I may tell my friend to find a trailer and drag the hawg out of here any way he likes. His clutch-guy can surely do-up the battery.

As romantic an idea as it is to take it on yourself, I've been sent by your doctor to tell you to run the other way...
All motorcycle maintenance/repair is frustrating due to the lack of space. As Jack mentioned, you have 2 options: work uncomfortably or work uncomfortably.
Just take the seat off to get to the battery, then just take the pipes (don't snap a stud!) and the case apart to "check" the kickstart...then notice the brake lines are "aged" and the wiring is "questionable"...etc. X 100
With all older mechanical repair jobs there is always an issue that arises that makes the "mechanic" look like the bad guy, and the sooner you get out of that position the healthier your friendship can stay.

Don't let the balmy temps and the sunshine and the look in his eye sway your decision...he'll be ok.
Owning a '77 comes with the responsibility of upkeep. 
Find a "local" cycle guru who will get some pleasure out of breathing life back into her (only problem is, this time of year brings out all of the bike neglectors...so he'll have to get in line)
Save your back for the important things in life like putting a cat in a Miata or trading it out for more debt.

I see nicer bikes being parted out for more money.
I also see "not too old" guys walking around hunched over because they tried to help out a friend X 100

I know you know ALL of this, and it sounds like you were talking yourself out of it. I'm just here to confirm that action.

"man's got to know his limitations"....Dirty Harry

[shooter]

Miata runs rough and smells bad,

saw out the old cat and she'll run good and as a bonus, it'll sound like a hog!

[PRR]

Cat?

> saw out the old cat and she'll run good

Ah!! No, the Miata has oil leaks. Rocker-cover is routine and due, easy to do quick, tedious to do right. But they also see a leak where the oil pan seals to the front cover. (We don't think it is the shaft-seal, but we shall see.) So drop the pan and throw new cork in. But you can't drop the pan, nor lift the engine enuff to clear. The standard route is to hold up the engine and drop the whole front subframe. This is not as bad as it sounds, but still a lot of work. The "pan" is really structural, bolts into the bellhousing. Then the pan is effectively glued, not corked; and the internal splash guard is part of that. All-in-all, we decided to do the top and let the pan go for a while.

> and as a bonus, it'll sound like a hog!

No, that's the mini-van. It's a pep-less wonder. Since I had bent the exhaust in a snowbank, and it always hung low, I tore it out and put in a hot-rod Thrush muffler with flex-pipe. Some of the transmission's favorite RPMs resonate like a big-rig.

That poor beast has been throwing secondary O2 error every 1-6 months. I bought the sensor, but each time I re-set the error and it stays off another 1-6 months, so I have not climbed under. It's going to a lift for brakes, and I'll ask them to take a GOOD look at the wiring before putting the new sensor on.

[shooter]

Cat?

Sorry, catalytic converter
usually exhibits sulfur type smell, sluggish idle, hell if it just oil, keep checking the gas,
 fill the oil

I got pulled over at 1am on my way to a down system, as the cop was asking if I knew why he pulled me over, a Harley rider blew passed with open headers, drowning out our conversation, I said no idea, His reply, your exhaust is loud, my reply, you mean like what, pointing in the motorcycles direction, He say's no, that different !  Yes, I got a fix-it ticket!

[PRR]

Belated follow-through....

Dana didn't maintain, and threw a rod through the case. Traded the corpse to a frenemy for truck repair. I'm sure parts of the bike will run again, some day.