> a 12AX7, 300mA
Let's use the right numbers. 12AX7 can eat:
6.3V 0.300A
12.6V 0.150A
Ass-uming they aimed at 0.150A target, 0.150A * 18r is a 2.7V drop.
15V - 2.7V is 12.3V at the "12.6V" heater.
I believe the tube is utterly happy.
However it will suck less at 12.3V of nominal 12.6V. A naive resistance assumption suggests 0.146,4A. Heaters tend to more constant-current and I would dart-board 0.148A. This is really splitting frog-hairs, but 15V-(0.148*18) makes 12.336V.
Using the round numbers: The resistor wastes 2.7V*0.150A. This is 0.405 Watts. In a 1/2W part!! As Sluckey says, this is far too close for long-term comfort. I would call it a "30 day special". If you warrant your stuff more than 30 days, you should probably up-size the resistor 2X, a 1W part. (I have seen a 4X suggestion-- if the difference in price is small, the extra 10 cents today may avoid a $5-$50 hassle or lost-gig down the decades.)
But wait! Are you ever going to cold-start? A cold heater has resistance 1/5 to 1/10 of hot resistance. Taking 12V 0.15A that is 80 Ohms hot, so 8 to 16 Ohms cold. Taking 9 Ohm guess, combined with 18 Ohms, and 15V, at cold-start the 18 Ohms sees 10 Volts! And 10^2/18 is 5.55 Watts! This is only for a second, though current will not drop to nominal for several seconds. A 1/2W part will go red-hot at 5.5W. The material expand suddenly. The element develops micro-cracks, and again at every turn-on, until it fails. A 5W resistor would not be overly conservative, though I could see using a 3W part.
Main-cap sag and regulator limits may modify these peak stresses, though a thumb-count does not suggest a major dip.