Amp construction methods

[fossilshark]

I was just wondering what peoples proffered method of construction was. Im not looking to start a p2p vs circuit board debate, im just curious what is commonly used. I myself use terminal strips but i might switch to circuit boards.

[John]

Turret boards for me. I've done p2p (using terminal strips of course) and while it went together quick, changing out components was a real pain. And since I am always tweaking...

[tubenit]

I've used PTP, terminal strips, turret boards, tagboard and eyelet boards.  I prefer the turret boards.  IF the tagboards were sturdier for experimenting with mods, I would prefer them. I like the multiple connections to wire something up.

IF it is a known and proven amp design, I like Hoffman's layout design.  IF it is an amp where I will be experimenting and designing a lot, then I prefer paralleled turrets like on HiWatt or Vox.

When possible, I like stand up power transformers & prefer 300-0-300 so when I use rectifiers, I can use a 5Y3GT for 330v,  5V4 for 360v, GZ34 for 390v or Doug's solid state plug in for 420v.  This allows me to use 6V6 or 5881/6L6 tubes.

I prefer cathode biased, so I can simply plug in a 6V6 or 5881/6L6 which are my favorite tubes.

I've gotten to where I use 5751 tubes or 12AY7's more often then I use to.  Both my current amps only have 12AX7's in the LTPI.

I always use Doug's grounding scheme.

I've gotten to where I only use shielded wire sparingly and when needed. 

When trying to mod something, I make fewer tweaks at a time and play them for a while before I make a final decision about keeping them.  Early on , I made too many changes too quickly. 

I never start an amp until I've drawn the schematic and layout that I will be using as a starting place.

I check for cap foil orientation most of the time with higher gain amps.

I'm using smaller cathode cap values like 5uf instead of 22uf or 25uf.   Sometimes I use 10uf.

IF the amp has an LTPI, I always install an "enhance cap".

I've recognized some cap preferences for certain designs.

I've gotten to where I prefer delay over reverb (but still like both)  and am installing active effects loops more often then not.

There are all just personal preferences and not necessarily "better".  Keep in mind, I have never built a clone of a manufactured or boutique amp.  I steal and borrow and adapt ideas for those amps, but typically prefer experimenting to see what I can come up with.

With respect, Tubenit

[SnickSound]

Pretty much always turret board for me, which chassis mounted sockets, pots, jacks and switches.

There's always a proven turret board layout available, it's consistent, easy to plan ahead, easy to switch components after the amp is build, it's reliable and yet quite easy to do (as long as you have a drill and a hammer, you can do it), it's fairly flexible, almost as much as PCB.

Only thing is I tend to change my mind on some "architectural" decisions after an amp has been built (like going from a cathodyne to a LTPI, splitting some cathodes, etc), so I try to plan ahead and make my layout flexible.

[Bangy]

I am in the middle of an eyelet build, using Turrets before and I enjoyed the freedom of creating my own eyelets board. I am new to the game and although I thought my layout was sound, I discovered a small change that would dramatically enhance the functionality of the amp, in the midst of the build. A minute with an 1/8 inch drill bit and I was away.  So I may do another eyelet until I gain more experience.

@Tubenet

I have tried the oscilloscope method (with foil and without), the amp method, and I cannot find a way to get definitive results when trying to determine the outer foil.  I think I have a current build (using Mustards) with proper foil orientation but Im really not positive. Any pointers?

[Ed_Chambley]

Different things for different things.  On high gain stuff I use 2 eyelet strips parallel for the preamp, each on their own standoffs.  using these I can sue a star ground.  Check out 15.5 of this link.
http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/Grounding.pdf



For Octal tubes I use round eyelet boards and place the components vertical sometimes.  I prefer eyelets mostly because they are easy to mod and are very cheap from Tandy.


On proven designs I will use turrets and a single board it it is something like a Plexi build, but I prefer Epoxy board or Garolite.


Simple things like Chanps and GA5 and whatnot, Point since it takes longer to make the board than wire it up.  If I am building a clone Fender, I make it like Fender did, but use a better board material.  And sometimes I try something completely different and take it back apart because it worked better in  my mind.


I do like combining horizontal and vertical simply because I can build in a smaller box, but if it is something I plan to keep, I fold up a very large chassis.  Usually 19 x 2.5 x 8 as this will allow for dual preamps, a loop and plenty of room to keep the inputs away from the outputs.


On low gain stuff I really like cap cans where longer leads do not cause extra noise.  I like quiet amps.


Oh yea, I like turrets in places where her resistors reside so I can get them up off any surface and away from caps.