Hoffman Single Channel AB763

[PRR]

> I connected the OT screen wire to pin 4

You can do that. It won't be Classic Fender/Luckey DeLuxe. At this scale, it will probably be "too polite" for rock and roll. It's for Hi-Fi amps. A similar thing has been done on HIGH power guitar amps, which can't be "polite" even when too-clean. But this build, stick with the plan, insulate the excess wires and forget them.

[purpletele]

> I connected the OT screen wire to pin 4

You can do that. It won't be Classic Fender/Luckey DeLuxe. At this scale, it will probably be "too polite" for rock and roll. It's for Hi-Fi amps. A similar thing has been done on HIGH power guitar amps, which can't be "polite" even when too-clean. But this build, stick with the plan, insulate the excess wires and forget them.

Thank you for the insight, you learn something everyday if you let yourself.

[purpletele]

I was looking at my layout and more specifically the routing of my OT speaker wires.  I have it tucked away on the left side in the red shrink tubing.

Do you think I am going to have too much noise from having the OT wires too close to the volume and input wires?   

I could keep the Input and Volume wires below the board and then raise the output wires and run them along the side of the chassis above the board.

Any input would be appreciated.

[sluckey]

Maybe you will get lucky, but having those speaker jacks and high current OT wires right next to the most sensitive tube in the amp is inviting heartache. I would have put the OT near the PT and put those speaker jacks next to the fuse.

[MFowler]

I've done the same on JCM800 builds but not that close to 1st tube or input jack.  Better to lay the wires on the opposite side away from 1st tube/input jack or outside the chassis on top.


Also, you could make a shield around the input jack.


I would try the amp first before changing anything.


Mark

[purpletele]

Thanks Steve and Mark,

That is my first significant layout error.  it all comes back to the faceplate and thinking the whole thing through.

I am going to make a move now so I don't have to perform desperate tests after its all tied down.

At this point it would seem to me that it would be very simple an effective if I go over across the top of the chassis and then drop down right on top of the speaker jacks.

It fouls my aesthetics but everything is a prototype until it is not a prototype.

Are there any detrimental issues of running the OT wires across the top?

As always, thank you all for the guidance. 

BV

[purpletele]

Update on OT Placement:

I moved the PT toward the PT an inch and re-routed the speaker Output wires.  I feel much better about the route.

Please let me know if my move impacted anything that I don't see at this point.

Thank you

BV

[sluckey]

Much better!

Is there some reason you don't want to move the speaker jacks over to the fuse? Maybe a rear faceplate or something cosmetic?

[purpletele]

Much better!

Is there some reason you don't want to move the speaker jacks over to the fuse? Maybe a rear faceplate or something cosmetic?

UPDATE

I couldn't take having a faux paus on layout, I moved the speaker jacks to the middle and put the reverb jack near V2.

Costly, but much better.





Steve,

I am reluctantly trying to make it work due to my cool rear plate that I made.  I spent a lot of time on the faceplates and hastily designed the backplate backward.
I can move things areound and easily get another faceplate for $45 but I would like to avoid that unless I am still vulnerable for noise.

Overall this amp is coming together well, hopefully I can get through this layout issue without collateral damage.

I had also prepped the back for a hybrid Mojotone type FX loop for the future.

Thanks for the eyes and advice.

BV

[purpletele]

RCA Jacks

This is my first amp with reverb as well as the first use of RCA jacks.

I have the the independant ring physically grounded as I would any other jack.

When I look at others it appears that the chassis is used as a ground and the jacks are not connected to a specific ground point.

Do I need to wire a ground to each jack or just let the chassis be the ground?




Thank for the guidance.
BV

[sluckey]

Don't connect the ground lugs of any of those RCA jacks to your speaker ground! Just let the chassis be the ground connection. Make sure the nuts are tight. Use star washers if you got'em.

Your jacks are also wired wrong. Look at this pic of Hoffman's Princeton Reverb (same circuit) and wire your jacks like that.

http://el34world.com/Hoffman/images/Img_8415.jpg

[purpletele]

Don't connect the ground lugs of any of those RCA jacks to your speaker ground! Just let the chassis be the ground connection. Make sure the nuts are tight. Use star washers if you got'em.

Your jacks are also wired wrong. Look at this pic of Hoffman's Princeton Reverb (same circuit) and wire your jacks like that.

http://el34world.com/Hoffman/images/Img_8415.jpg

I thought I had responded to this.

Thank you for the advice.  I reworked the reverb jacks and I am confident that I have it correct, but any fresh eyeballs would be appreciated.

I finished the installing the components early this morning but I haven't started it up yet.

I did check the motor before I installed the components and I had great voltage reading at all of the sockets, I got to use my cool Light Bulb Limiter.

I'll spend a while double checking the wiring this evening and then hopefully start it up tonight.

I have a spot for a Master Volume. but I am going to get this amp up a running before I cut that MV in.

Here are some progress photos of the Orange Bomb.

[sluckey]

Reverb jacks are still wrong. Wire it like this...

[purpletele]

Reverb jacks are still wrong. Wire it like this...

I'll take you up on that.  Thank you

[purpletele]

PROGRESS UPDATE

I corrected the Reverb wiring, thank you Steve for the detail.

I have one last question before I start up.

I have the Bias Tap connected to Pin 6 on the Rectifier.  That is the way I interpreted the detail, however, I have had wrong interpretations before.

Is that the correct interpretation for the Bias Tap?

Thanks for the input


BV

[sluckey]

I have the Bias Tap connected to Pin 6 on the Rectifier...  Is that the correct interpretation for the Bias Tap?

Yes. You must make a simple change on the board though. Hoffman shows a 470Ω bias range resistor. That is fine if your AC voltage source comes from a dedicated bias tap on the PT. But your PT does not have a dedicated bias tap, so instead, you are using a much higher AC voltage source. Therefore you must use a much larger bias range resistor. 100K @ 3W is a good starting point. That's what a Princeton Reverb uses. You may have to adjust that value up or down a bit to get a good negative voltage adjustment range. And you may just be lucky. The 100K may be just what you need.

DO NOT POWER THIS AMP UP USING THAT 470Ω! You will fry the bias caps.

[purpletele]

I have the Bias Tap connected to Pin 6 on the Rectifier...  Is that the correct interpretation for the Bias Tap?

Yes. You must make a simple change on the board though. Hoffman shows a 470Ω bias range resistor. That is fine if your AC voltage source comes from a dedicated bias tap on the PT. But your PT does not have a dedicated bias tap, so instead, you are using a much higher AC voltage source. Therefore you must use a much larger bias range resistor. 100K @ 3W is a good starting point. That's what a Princeton Reverb uses. You may have to adjust that value up or down a bit to get a good negative voltage adjustment range. And you may just be lucky. The 100K may be just what you need.

DO NOT POWER THIS AMP UP USING THAT 470Ω! You will fry the bias caps.

Thank you!  That didn't make sense to me, but now it does.

[purpletele]

Start Up Notes and Questions

1. I changed the Bias resistor from 470 Ohm 3W to 100K 2W.

2. Prior to this start up I had tested and recorded the voltages at each point prior to the board and tubes being installed.

3.  Those volatges were 6.46 V across all Points without tubes or any connections.

4.  I made a parallel heater connection from V5 to the Heater connection on the board.  Very similar to the Doug's Deluxe project.

4.5 I started it up and it is idling fine, it's real quiet, the whole pre amp section is powered but not enought to operate correctly.

4.8 No sound

5.  My voltages across the heaters are as follows:

V1    5.84
V2    5.85
V3    5.86
V4    5.88
V5    5.93
V6    5.94
V7    5.94

Light  5.99

Heater Connection on Board 5.91

There are two things going on that I see.

1.  Voltage drop starting at .36 V

2. Graduated Voltage drop of .01 at each tube

Questions


1. Should I make the board the first parallel node on the heater string and then go to the tubes?

2. Should I try a smaller Bias resistor like 470K?

3. I am not sure why I would have a .01 graduated voltage with V1 having 5.84 volts.

Any ideas or input is very much appreciated.

BV

[sluckey]

1. Should I make the board the first parallel node on the heater string and then go to the tubes?

You have the heater center tap (white/brown) wire connected to chassis? If so, don't connect the filament string to the resistors on the board.

2. Should I try a smaller Bias resistor like 470K?

Don't change it until you check the voltage at pin 5 of each power tube. Power tubes should not be plugged in until you have proper bias voltage at pin 5. Turn the bias pot end to end. What voltage go you have at each end of the pot?

You only have .1v drop from the beginning of the filament string to the end of the string. Ain't no big thang!

However, looks like you may be using 22 gauge wire for the filaments? I would use stranded 20 gauge . Bigger wire equals less voltage drop.

[purpletele]

1. Should I make the board the first parallel node on the heater string and then go to the tubes?

You have the heater center tap (white/brown) wire connected to chassis? If so, don't connect the filament string to the resistors on the board.

2. Should I try a smaller Bias resistor like 470K?

Don't change it until you check the voltage at pin 5 of each power tube. Power tubes should not be plugged in until you have proper bias voltage at pin 5. Turn the bias pot end to end. What voltage go you have at each end of the pot?

You only have .1v drop from the beginning of the filament string to the end of the string. Ain't no big thang!

However, looks like you may be using 22 gauge wire for the filaments? I would use stranded 20 gauge . Bigger wire equals less voltage drop.

Thanks for the input,

The wire size and voltage drop seem significnt in this configuration, I am now using 18 Ga for the power tubes and then going to 20 Ga for the pre amp.  That was a painful surprise, that I had not anticipated.  So far I am getting 6.3 at the Power Tubes and I am moving on.

The two 100 ohm resistors on the board confused me, but it makes sense now, thank you.

I have my hands full for a while.

Thanks for the keen observation and assistance!

BV

[purpletele]

1. Should I make the board the first parallel node on the heater string and then go to the tubes?

You have the heater center tap (white/brown) wire connected to chassis? If so, don't connect the filament string to the resistors on the board.

Corrected

2. Should I try a smaller Bias resistor like 470K?Don't change it until you check the voltage at pin 5 of each power tube. Power tubes should not be plugged in until you have proper bias voltage at pin 5. Turn the bias pot end to end. What voltage go you have at each end of the pot?

V7  Pin 5  Without tubes  40.3 V - 27.58 V

V6 Pin 5   Without Tubes 40.4 V - 27.62 V

You only have .1v drop from the beginning of the filament string to the end of the string. Ain't no big thang!

However, looks like you may be using 22 gauge wire for the filaments? I would use stranded 20 gauge . Bigger wire equals less voltage drop.

Corrected

I'll set it for 32 V +/- and put the tubes in and set the bias.   Stay tuned

Here is a photo of the rewired filament harness.

The amp Motorboats when I flip the Standby into play.

V7  6.19 V
V6  6.18 V
V5  6.17 V
V4  6.16 V
V3  6.15 V
V2  6.14 V
V1  6.13 V

I don't understand how I could get 6.3 V at the the end of the Power tubes and then when I go on with the Pre-Amp tubes and 20 Ga wire it reduces the voltages of the whole string. 

That's a clue that its time to sleep.

[sluckey]

The amp Motorboats when I flip the Standby into play.

Check ground connections, especially filter cap grounds.

V7  6.19 V
V6  6.18 V
V5  6.17 V
V4  6.16 V
V3  6.15 V
V2  6.14 V
V1  6.13 V

Those are very respectable voltage drops. Nothing wrong here.

I don't understand how I could get 6.3 V at the the end of the Power tubes and then when I go on with the Pre-Amp tubes and 20 Ga wire it reduces the voltages of the whole string.

You have 5 little tubes, each pulling .3A filament current. That's 1.5A total. That extra load on the filament winding causes the voltage to drop.
 

[purpletele]

The amp Motorboats when I flip the Standby into play.

Check ground connections, especially filter cap grounds.

V7  6.19 V
V6  6.18 V
V5  6.17 V
V4  6.16 V
V3  6.15 V
V2  6.14 V
V1  6.13 V

Those are very respectable voltage drops. Nothing wrong here.

I don't understand how I could get 6.3 V at the the end of the Power tubes and then when I go on with the Pre-Amp tubes and 20 Ga wire it reduces the voltages of the whole string.

You have 5 little tubes, each pulling .3A filament current. That's 1.5A total. That extra load on the filament winding causes the voltage to drop.

Thanks for the input. 

I abandoned my Weller XL100 a few days ago, I was really having to work to get a clean solder joint.  I picked up a Hakko 951 and it is making a big difference, that's  a nice tool.  I wouldn't be surprised to find a cold joint around my cap board from the failing XL100.

BV

[PRR]

You have 0.06V drop at 1.5 Amps. 0.04 Ohms.

#20 is 10.4 Ohms per 1,000 feet. So 3.8 feet out and back, 1.9' length, makes the 0.04 Ohms.

While you only have about a foot as the crow flies, the zig and zag to sockets, plus the twist, may well be 2 feet of pair-line.

I don't see 0.06V (1% of 6V!!) as any sort of "problem".

[purpletele]

You have 0.06V drop at 1.5 Amps. 0.04 Ohms.

#20 is 10.4 Ohms per 1,000 feet. So 3.8 feet out and back, 1.9' length, makes the 0.04 Ohms.

While you only have about a foot as the crow flies, the zig and zag to sockets, plus the twist, may well be 2 feet of pair-line.

I don't see 0.06V (1% of 6V!!) as any sort of "problem".

Thanks for the input, I'm looking for clues.

I went through and rewired the Capacitor Reservoir with 18 Gauge ground wire and touched up the whole grounding system. 

Still getting a little motor boating,  but within 1 minute the 820 Ohm feedback resister smoked. 

So I'm trying to think like an electron and determine if this is now directly related to the Bias resistor that I changed from 470 Ohms to 100K.

I can manipulate the motoring with the intensity knob which is directly tied to the bias circuit, so I have to conclude that I have too much resistance in front of the bias circuit.

I'm not quite processing how a starved bias circuit creates too much voltage through the feedback loop, enouugh to smoke a resistor quickly.

Should I proceed with reducing the bias resistor to say 82K 3 Watt? 

Thanks for any input, trying to not get obseessed and think logically.

BV

[sluckey]

Leave the 100K bias resistor alone! You have a perfect bias voltage range on pin 5 of the output tubes. This has nothing to do with that smoking 820Ω resistor. That will likely be a missing ground wire.

[purpletele]

Leave the 100K bias resistor alone! You have a perfect bias voltage range on pin 5 of the output tubes. This has nothing to do with that smoking 820Ω resistor. That will likely be a missing ground wire.

Ha!  I had just been staring at that section looking for poor ground connections.  Obviously I didn't find any bad ground connections in the power section.

That is humorous in a geeky amp dude kind of way!

Thank you, good eyes.

[purpletele]

Update

I hooked up the power section ground and that selttled everything down.  I had also replaced the 820 Ohm feedback resistor.

I also reworked the entire grounding system again with a nice clean connection strip and new clean joints.

I get filament voltages starting at 6.10 V and decreasing down the string.

I am getting .421 Volts at Point A and throughout the critical power points.

Obviously the OT is not powered up

The power section is really steady and so I rebiased the tubes to 32 mA.

I have the ground for the OT connected to the speaker ground that goes back to my 4 position ground strip.

I can see I want to rework my control wires for the Trem and Reverb but that's not preventing the OT from being energized.

I'm hoping the smole I had earlier was just the resistor and not the OT.

Thanks for any input and thoughts.  I'm getting into amp building shape

[sluckey]

I had also replaced the 820 Ohm feedback resistor.

I would also replace that 100Ω that connects to the 820. I was subjected to the same current that smoked the 820 when that ground wire was missing.

I am getting .421 Volts at Point A and throughout the critical power points.

You really mean 421v???

Obviously the OT is not powered up

Not sure what this means. Please explain. If you have 420v at point A and have adjusted the bias for 32mA then the OT must be "powered up".

so I rebiased the tubes to 32 mA.

That's pretty hot if your plate voltage is 420v. 6V6 max dissipation is 14 watts. Most of us like to set the bias to deliver about 70% of max, or 9.8 watts. I would crank the bias down to around 25mA, remeasure plate voltage, and recalculate by multiplying bias current times plate voltage. Readjust bias slightly until you calculate 9.8 watts.

that's not preventing the OT from being energized.

Again, what does this mean? Does the amp make any sound in the speaker? The OT should not have been damaged when that resistor smoked.

[purpletele]

I am getting .421 Volts at Point A and throughout the critical power points.

You really mean 421v???

My Klein MM1000 reads 123.2 when I check the AC voltage coming in.  When I go to measure Volts in DC at the critical points the meter is reading 0421 Volts.  I am waiting clarification from Klein.   I took it to read .421 Volts but that certainly doesn't make sense.

Obviously the OT is not powered up

Not sure what this means. Please explain. If you have 420v at point A and have adjusted the bias for 32mA then the OT must be "powered up".

I get the same reading at the Blue and Brown OT wires which is 0420 V or similar.  The OT is cold and there is no sound at all.

so I rebiased the tubes to 32 mA.

That's pretty hot if your plate voltage is 420v. 6V6 max dissipation is 14 watts. Most of us like to set the bias to deliver about 70% of max, or 9.8 watts. I would crank the bias down to around 25mA, remeasure plate voltage, and recalculate by multiplying bias current times plate voltage. Readjust bias slightly until you calculate 9.8 watts.

OK I'll redo that step.

that's not preventing the OT from being energized.

Again, what does this mean? Does the amp make any sound in the speaker? The OT should not have been damaged when that resistor smoked.
[/quote]

The transformer is cold, no hum or vibration, and no sound.   I'll replace the 100 ohm resistor in line with the 820 ohm feedback resistor.

Thanks for the eyeballs.  I'll see what Klein says shortly on my meter.

[sluckey]

That meter probably displays 4 digits even when the leading digit is zero. A leading zero does not imply a decimal point. If you don't see a decimal point in the display, you cannot just assume there is one.

Try this. Measure the voltage across a flashlight battery, or 9 colt battery, whatever you have handy. I bet the display will light up all four digits even if the voltage is exactly 1.5v or 9v.

I get the same reading at the Blue and Brown OT wires which is 0420 V or similar.  The OT is cold and there is no sound at all.

Those voltages don't indicate a problem. And it's perfectly normal for the OT to be cold unless you have been driving it hard. No sound is a problem, but it could be caused by a thousand things that could be wrong anywhere between the input jack and the speaker. On a new build the most likely reason for no sound is a wiring error. Click the link in my signature line of this message for some good tips on locating wiring errors.

[VMS]

Looking the picture of your amp, few things puzzle me:


Are the unused speaker output jacks grounding the signal?


Where does the black wire go from the two e-caps (100uf350v) that are connected in series?

[purpletele]

That meter probably displays 4 digits even when the leading digit is zero. A leading zero does not imply a decimal point. If you don't see a decimal point in the display, you cannot just assume there is one.

Try this. Measure the voltage across a flashlight battery, or 9 colt battery, whatever you have handy. I bet the display will light up all four digits even if the voltage is exactly 1.5v or 9v.

I get the same reading at the Blue and Brown OT wires which is 0420 V or similar.  The OT is cold and there is no sound at all.

Those voltages don't indicate a problem. And it's perfectly normal for the OT to be cold unless you have been driving it hard. No sound is a problem, but it could be caused by a thousand things that could be wrong anywhere between the input jack and the speaker. On a new build the most likely reason for no sound is a wiring error. Click the link in my signature line of this message for some good tips on locating wiring errors.

Thank you,

I reviewed a video on the MM1000 display.  It is indeed reading 421 V.

So I have a wiring issue somewhere.

[sluckey]

Are the unused speaker output jacks grounding the signal?

Good catch! Yes, they certainly are! This pic from way back shows the switch lugs of the speaker jacks connected to ground. That will kill any sound the amp tries to make. Remove that bus bar. You should only use two lugs on those speaker jacks. A wire from the OT will go to the tip lug. Nothing connects to the switch lug. And you can run a wire from the sleeve (ground) lug back to power ground point, although it's not really necessary if the speaker jacks are tight. I like to use the ground wire though.

[purpletele]

Looking the picture of your amp, few things puzzle me:

Are the unused speaker output jacks grounding the signal?

I certainly have the grounds on the unused speaker jacks connected to my ground grid.  If I am grounding the signal with this connection that would be a welcome surprise of a mistake.  Please let me know if you see an issue.

It appears that my voltages are correct and I definitely have a wiring issue.  My next step is to review the shielded input wires.

Thanks,

BV

Where does the black wire go from the two e-caps (100uf350v) that are connected in series?

That black wire goes a short distance to a main grounding strip right below.

Thanks for the eyeballs.

[purpletele]

Are the unused speaker output jacks grounding the signal?

Good catch! Yes, they certainly are! This pic from way back shows the switch lugs of the speaker jacks connected to ground. That will kill any sound the amp tries to make. Remove that bus bar. You should only use two lugs on those speaker jacks. A wire from the OT will go to the tip lug. Nothing connects to the switch lug. And you can run a wire from the sleeve (ground) lug back to power ground point, although it's not really necessary if the speaker jacks are tight. I like to use the ground wire though.

Fantastic!! Great catch guys.!   I happen to have the proper jacks that just arrived from Doug's swift shipping.   

I'll start there and redo that section.   

Thanks for the help

BV

[VMS]

Where does the black wire go from the two e-caps (100uf350v) that are connected in series?

I looked wrong this part so it's most likely correct. Concentrate on those output jacks now and you can use those that are on place, just remove the wire that is connecting all the switching lugs.

[purpletele]

AB763 Deluxe Reverb Update

I have sound, however I still have a wiring issue somewhere.

The volume is maybe 1/4th of what it should be.  The tone is a little muddy.  I had a bad left turn with two bad pre-amp tubes.  I checked the 6 v 6's by installing another pair without a change.

I did not exchange the rectifier, it seems to be stable and it was a known NOS 5ar4.

Here is what I did today which is really yesterday.

1. Re-Worked the speaker jacks with new two prong type.  I went ahead and replaced the buss on the grounds for the speaker jacks.  The OT ground ground wire and the speaker jacks are on the same 16 GA wire that goes back to a common grounding strip.

2. Re-Worked the input jack and the shielded input wire with a 33K resistor.  I tossed the other one and mounted this one so there was not any stress on the connections points.

3. Re-Worked the control panel, cut lead wires to a taut length

4. Re-biased the 6 v 6's, I could only go as low as 26 mA, so I left it there.

5. Re-flowed all the connections on the control ground buss.

6. Re-flowed all connections.

7. Re-traced the layout with a highlighter twice.

8. The TMB seem to work, they can be altered.

9. The vibrato is working

10. I posted the voltages from this evening.

11. My past experience with this situation would direct me to a ground wiring issue with the controls, or a problem with the control pot itsef.  However I taped up these pots during construction and made sure I didn't drop anything into the gap. 

It was good day to hide and get lost in an amp.  I feel like I made some good progress, I feel like I'm staring at a simple grounding issue and cannot see it.  Maybe tomorrow.

[sluckey]

4. Re-biased the 6 v 6's, I could only go as low as 26 mA, so I left it there.

What is your meter connected to when you measure 26mA? You will probably need to change that 100K bias resistor to 82K to be able to reduce the bias current. I would want to get about 25mA with the bias pot set to about mid range.

10. I posted the voltages from this evening.

I don't see any voltages? Voltages for every tube pin would be very helpful. Also voltages for each PS node, ie, filter caps A, B, C, and D.

[VMS]

is the green wire coming from outputjack your nfb wire and if so, why is the nfb resistor connected to 250pf cap?


Or is my eyes playing tricks again and it just look like it is?

[sluckey]

That 250pF cap should be a 0.1µF cap! 

When using the highlighter to verify wires are in the correct place you should also verify that component values are correct.

[VMS]

I was wondering the value of that cap too but i have not followed this thread from the beginning so wasn't sure what layout was used.

[sluckey]

Here's the layout and schematic...

     http://el34world.com/Hoffman/files/Hoffman_AB763_1.pdf

Easy to see why he used a 250pF.

[purpletele]

That 250pF cap should be a 0.1µF cap! 

When using the highlighter to verify wires are in the correct place you should also verify that component values are correct.

Stuckey/VMs,

You guys are good.

I remember looking at that and thinking I need to review that value.  Then I was distracted , came back and installed the 250pf cap.

Clearly a mental error that I didn’t double check.

Great CSI work.

[sluckey]

Look at reply #88 again.

[purpletele]

Look at reply #88 again.
[/quote


Ok

[purpletele]

AB763 Update

1. I changed the 250 pF cap with a .1/400V that I had, ordered a .1/250V for permanent installation.  I was locked into that silver mica from my initial component list. 

2. Rechecked all of the components again, I may be looking at a forest at this point, but I went through and checked again with a highlighter.

3. I installed the .1/400 V cap in lieu of the 250 pF cap without much volume or tonal change.

4. I was able to go below 25 mA on the bias setting.  Full control and very stable, I set the bias at 25 mA

5. Very quiet amp.  The sound is still 1/4 of the volume and still muddy.

6. I have posted a voltage pin chart as well as a schematic with As Built voltages in red.

7. It appears I have an issue with the V3 section.  I'll be focusing on those components.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

BV

[VMS]

Do you have the wire in place that connects V3-b plate resistor R27 and the point D

[purpletele]

Do you have the wire in place that connects V3-b plate resistor R27 and the point D

Do you mean a wire like a rail that should be in between my Plate resistors? 

No I don't have that wire, good eyes.  I'm going in for a clean up.

That was a major faux paus on my part.

Got it all tied together, plenty of volume! 

The tone is getting there, I have a really noisy treble and bass including some whining and oscillation.

The Bias jumped to 48 mV and that is now the bottom of the range.  The oscillation came down as I turned the bias down as low as I could get it.  I have to wait a few days for the 82K 3 watt bias resistor.

I need work on the Reverb as well, it's noisy and not working correctly, but we will see after I ge the bias cooled down.

I've had to work pretty hard this spring training to get into building shape.  It's coming together.

Thanks for the help!

[VMS]

You might need to reverse your OT primary wires if it's oscillating badly.