populating eyelet board

[dude]

I have an eyelet board I'm getting ready to populate. The board is two pieces, a bottom (solid) and top with eyelets. The space between the boards when together is less than an eight of an inch, not much room for component leads.


Before I start I just want to ask if there are any tips or suggestions with eyelet boards.


Not much of the lead goes in the eyelet before bottoming out, would you bend the end of the lead about a 1/16" (right angle) and slide it between the two boards or just let it lay in the eyelet and solder?


Any info appreciate before I start. See pic.


thanks,
al

[shooter]

fwiw I've used eyelets on 2 builds, in my messy days ,  If there is only 1 or 2 leads going in, I bent them 180 degrees, doubling their "thickness" to give a reasonable good mechanical "bite", then soldered.  I used stand-offs so I wasn't to concerned about bottom-side clearance.

[dude]

When I load the board should I push the components down against the bd., like blackface fiber boards or pull them up a bit and bend the ends 90* like on a turret bd? This just might be a preference question but I'm trying to get a little neater, going for function and looks too this time.


al

[pompeiisneaks]

I think what I've always seen with eyelets is the components rest on the board.  (I've never done them yet either though).  Basically you put them down on the board and bend the leads tight against the eyelet for a solid connection and after all leads are installed, fill the hole with solder.  I need to learn this myself too, though, so I may be up in the night :P

~Phil

[dude]

I think what I've always seen with eyelets is the components rest on the board.

That's what I was thinking, they say a mechanical connection then solder. So I assume you mean tuck a small end of the component under the two bds. to kind of tie it tight, then solder. The only nice thing about eyelets is they're easy to get resistors in and out during repairs. Way less heat can be applied, but probably requires a good soldering method, not too much solder seems important.

al

[sluckey]

Set the bottom insulating board aside. You don't need it until you are ready to install the fully loaded board into the chassis.

1A. Do this for a fiberglass or garolite board. Tin all the eyelets. This makes soldering component leads go much smoother. Rub some rosin flux on both sides of the board so the eyelets will take the tinning solder. Now heat each eyelet and coat it with a little solder. Just want to turn it from brass color to silver color. Be sure the bottom side of the eyelet is silver too. Don't worry about the flux mess yet. When each eyelet is properly tinned use a stiff 1" paint brush (I trim the bristles to about 3/4") and mineral spirits to totally wash the flux off the board. Then finally wash the board with denatured alcohol. You should end up with a clean board and bright, shiny, silver colored eyelets.

1B. If you have a flypaper board such as the original fender boards, just use 000 steel wool to shine the eyelets, top and bottom. Wipe clean and/or blow with compressed air.

2. Install all jumpers. Poke the ends thru the eyelet and bend over 180° so the jumper is pointing back toward where it came from. Trim to about 3/4". Don't solder yet.

3. Install all components and bend the leads over 180° just as you did the jumpers. Trim leads to about 3/4". Don't solder yet.

4. Install all interconnection wires, ie, tube wires, pot wires, etc. Be sure these wires are longer than they need to be. Bend the leads over 180° and solder in place. Use enough heat and solder to secure any other components in the same eyelet.

5. Solder all components in all eyelets. Flip the board and inspect. If touch up soldering is needed, do so now. Trim all excess lead lengths, leaving just a small "hook" over the bottom rim of the eyelet.

Now you are ready to install the loaded board and backer insulating board in the chassis.

[drew]

If it's a nice rigid fiberglass board, and you're not trying to mount it in a really shallow chassis, why even bother with the backing board?  Just mount it on some standoffs.

[sluckey]

If it's a nice rigid fiberglass board, and you're not trying to mount it in a really shallow chassis, why even bother with the backing board?  Just mount it on some standoffs.

zactly!

[dude]

Thanks for the detailed explanation, I'll tin the eyelets.


What you see came with the boards, the rubber washers are actually grommets. I assumed the vender meant for the grommets to go under the bottom board against the chassis. In that case the bds would be about 1/8" above the aluminium chassis after being squeezed by the plastic screws, probably why two bds. If I eliminate the bottom bd, that's pretty close to the chassis... The bds are about a full 1/16" thick and very rigid when together.


If I don't use the bottom board, I'd have to use different stand-offs that are higher or thicker rubber washers (the washer are kind of micky to me). I want to do this build as clean and neat as possible for once.  I see builds here that are fantastic looking.


Bottom line, I can use the bottom board and use the standoffs in the pic.  Or skip the bottom and grommets, get higher 1/2" metal standoffs. Board won't be as rigid as with both.


I have 1/2" metal standoffs, maybe I should scrap the grommets and plastic screws, use both boards as much more rigid than just one.


Not to get too anal, ha. which way? I have plenty of chassis depth for either way


al

[sluckey]

Look how Fender did this. Backer board laid down on the chassis, Component board laid on top of the backer board, then 2 or 3 sheet metal screws to hold both boards in place. No fancy plastic screws or grommets.

     http://sluckeyamps.com/64DR/index.htm

[dude]

Thanks again for the step by step prep for an eyelet bd.


My first build was a kit with two thin fiber bds. Build it in the late 90's, still works but it ain't pretty, the bd warped and buckled but held tight to the chassis with like you say 2 sheet metal screws.


I cleaned a little of the bd, tinned the eyelets and soldered a few test components. The bottom bd has to be used as the solder falls threw the hole. But yeah, Leo was a cost cutter but what he did worked.


Again thanks, I would have probably skipped the tinning which made the solder stick much better, just the hole is too big without the bottom.


I'll post some pic's of the completed bd. In the past I use to load the bd first without the leads to the pots and tubes. Put them in after the bd. was loaded. I did this to save wire as you never know the length you need. Now I'll added the wire before installing the bd. like you suggested, keeping them longer than needed and cutting to fit. It's easier and much cleaner.


al     

[Ed_Chambley]

Actually after you use the eyelets I think you will like them.  I prefer them in certain areas.  Much easier to make mods to them to me.


I still will make bends the resistors up off the board when working with epoxy or lighter color material.  Keeps the heat off and it will not stain the board material.


Most of my builds that are not "proven" will be with eyelets and you can get them in many different sizes.  I have some 1/16 copper ones that are very nice to use where I only have a small lead or 2.


I believe Fender did so different people could build different parts so no one really had to know everything.  Much faster to have someone populating boards all day than it is to have 1 person point building.


I also do not use a underboard with the G10 or similar, however in a tweed chassis 1/2 standoff are a little tall.

[dude]

I agree on the ease of mods, repairs, with eyelets.  I could get away with just the top eyelet bd. but my two bds are 1/16" thick, a little too thin alone and the eyelets are about the side of what Leo used. The layout is not 100% proven but close, probably a few value changes needed to suit my taste. The amp is a Fender Super BF area topology with one channel and just reverb. Most black face Fenders, IMO, use too high cathode resistors in the preamp, 25uf is too muddy for me, I usually change them to 2.2uf and 4.7uf. Takes the mud out when the gain is up. Also, I find the bass pot not to have a lot of affect. I seem to always have the bass set at 1 or 2 max. Not sure how to cure this problem for my ears.


I'll use better stand offs, 3/8" or 1/4", plenty of height available and use Sluckey suggestions. Thanks for all the advice, I probably won't get to this build for a month.


sincerely,
al Lang

[EL34]

If it's a nice rigid fiberglass board, and you're not trying to mount it in a really shallow chassis, why even bother with the backing board?  Just mount it on some standoffs.

I would not use a backing board unless it's one of those wimpy .062 inch thick boards?
I would mount it in 1/4 inch standoffs

Like this

[dude]

If it's a nice rigid fiberglass board, and you're not trying to mount it in a really shallow chassis, why even bother with the backing board?  Just mount it on some standoffs.

I would not use a backing board unless it's one of those wimpy .062 inch thick boards?

Even if it's a 1/16" thick, long fiber "eyelet" bd.


al

[EL34]

.062 is 1/16th inch

[dude]

.062 is 1/16th inch

I just look at my General 6" ruler, yeah it is. Man I'm getting old, pretty soon I'll be counting out pennies at the supper market line....

[EL34]

I should say .0625 is 1/16th inch

[Ed_Chambley]

I should say .0625 is 1/16th inch

Yes you should.

[EL34]

I think we just round it off so we don't have to type one more number 

[EL34]

Back to the topic
I guess I would use a backing board for the super thin board you have?

You can screw it down to a bench and solder up the parts
Just bend the leads 90 degrees so they fit into the eyelets
No need to have the leads go past the bottom of the eyelet
You can just tack the parts in place or fill the eyelet with solder if nothing else goes into the hole

Some guys add all the wires to the holes at this point
It waste wire, but it may be easier to do it that way with eyelets

[PRR]

> I should say .0625 is 1/16th inch

Correct math, but in the shop it implies you can measure to 0.000,1 inch. Which is beyond the precision of most shop tools.

I've been seeing "digital calipers" which read to 0.00,1", but after working with good Starett micrometers a few decades I have my doubts about that last digit.

[EL34]

I have a couple of these cheap Chinese ones
They are under $30, but work fine for what I do with them

[PRR]

And those go to 0.001". They can't resolve 0.062,5 from 0.062. It may "jump" from 0.062 to 0.063, suggesting 0.062,5, but I doubt they really can be trusted.

And obviously neither the board maker or us really care. They make it "about 1/16". Some days the resin is stiff and it comes out 0.064, other days they skimp and it comes out 0.061, so what? 

[EL34]

No, they actually have a another small 5 digit that shows up below the IN in the right side
Only a 5 shows up there, no other digits