Need narrow 6V6 plexi board

[dude]

Anyone know of anyone who will make me a custom bd. (6V6 plexi) to fit an A0-43 Hammond chassis? By the time I order all the stuff, I probably could have paid for a Bd to be made.

Size is about 8" by 2", no need for input grid resistors turrets. Or if anyone has a spare old Hammond bd about that size, (A043 bd), I'll buy it.

EDIT: I would supply a drill guide, or if anyone has "1/8" board material" just cut me an 8" by 2" piece and sent.  Just can't find a bd that size or give me some advice? I have another AO43 chassis and iron but missing the Hammond bd.
al

[Adrien]

Hey dude, I'm new around here but just wanted to say that I made a board layout exactly like this a few days ago and ordered it from Doug using his custom board program.  Very similar to you, I'm converting a hammond AO-29 to a 6v6 plexi.

The board I ended up going with will be 8.75" long with all the filter caps on it (since the chassis is LONG and narrow I've got the space), but I also made a version with only the preamp filter cap, and it's 5.5" long.  It'll come in at Doug's regular 3 1/8" wide but I only put turrets on the top 2" of it so I'll just trim it down.

Credit where it's due, the layout is almost identical to Sluckey's 6v6 plexi except narrower.  He really did a great layout for this circuit.

If you like, I can do up a layout drawing and post it (I just made a hand-drawn one that's kind of hard to read) and/or I can just give you the number to order the board from Doug.

Cheers
Adrien

[sluckey]

You should be able to find something that will work at AES. May have to cut to length.

     https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/terminal_boards_strips

If you really want to work with the AO-43 cone board (lotta work to strip it down!)... I can give you one. Just pay shipping

[SILVERGUN]

I've got an odd piece sitting here that is 7 5/8" long. I can rip it down to 2" wide if that will work. It's black G-10 board and it's got some scratches on it.
$10 total and I'll stick it in USPS first class.

[dude]

Never thought of AES, always thought they had only completed bds. Looks like this bd would work,   https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/turret-board-blank-189-holes-10-18-x-2-58 , 2.625" wide but I could cut a little off each side and get close to 2" width then cut to length, and get the turrets at AES too, probably under under ten bucks plus I could get a few other things as I'd have to only pay shipping once. Thanks, Sluckey. I did strip down an original Hammond bd. lot of work and with the length of those funny eyelets I'd have to raise the bd. too high.  I learned the hard way, using that bd for a 6V6 Plexi, to change the pots I have to lift the bd, .


Silvergun, thanks for offer. I'd have to order the turrets so best to get all at AES.


al

[tubenit]

Here is another idea to consider.    Hoffman sells tag boards.   They have 28 tags.   These are under "board building materials"

You can cut the board in half and have something maybe 7" x 2.25"

You'd have a paralleled V1 for 33% increase in gain with NO increase in noise.

You'd have a cathode biased amp, so no need for rebiasing changing tubes.

It would have a PPIMV.    You'd have a passive effects loop.  You can either have or NOT have a negative feedback loop.

This is a very simple amp & since you have cramped space, I think IF you are careful that you should have a nice sounding amp that is quiet.

I am attaching an editable SCH schematic and layout IF you want to consider this approach.  (Which I think would make a lovely amp)

I made one very similar for my son and called it the Texas Raptor (but with reverb and no FX).  He still has it and loves the tone of it.

With respect, Tubenit

[tubenit]

This is NOT the board drawn in the previous post, but it is an example of a board that I built for a special tube preamp.  I like these and found them durable overall.  They are NOT that sturdy if you change components out a lot, but if you have a good layout and know the values you want to begin with, they work really well.

With respect, Tubenit

[dude]

Thanks tubenit, interesting schematic. But for the AO43 chassis, I've made several 6V6 plexi faceplate, with drill points guide diagram from a program free on the web. Just have them printed at a print shop from a PDF file on heavy paper (low cost and looks nice), cut the holes and cover with thin acrylic plastic from home depot. But I'll check out Doug's board you mentioned.


I have an Ampeg amp, PTP, made in Vietnam that was a flop (made around 2005, a J-20), has the same tube layout as your Plexi 14 watt. So, can you describe the tone this amp produces? I'm not looking for a crunch monster but more a blues amp. I like the cathode bias but wonder how it would sound with fixed bias (tighter, more watts?). Also, that tag board, any problems with the tags turning and sorting things out but nice to have wire hookups handy?


al

[tubenit]

My son plays mostly blues.  I'm reasonably confident that this sound click was done with a "Texas Raptor", but I can not remember for 100% sure.  Both rhythm finger picking (just guitar alone) and lead (to backing track) were done on the same amp. Other then the wah-wah, no effects pedals were used but some delay and compression added in the mix.

https://www.soundclick.com/html5/v4/player.cfm?songID=6775802

I have not made a fixed biased amp in years and years.  I prefer the tone I get from cathode biased, so I am not sure how it would sound different with this specific amp?  I certainly have no need of the extra volume at this point. And I typically build my amps so I can interchange between 6V6 or 5881/6L6 with just swapping tubes and the rectifier tube.  I have found that by increasing the power tube cathode cap value that it starts to sound more fixed biased meaning clearer and more bass response.

The tags are reasonably sturdy. You can angle them if needed.  They start to get flimsy IF you are unsoldering and then soldering and then unsoldering etc .  components when you are changing values.  Turret boards are MUCH sturdier IF you are going to change things a lot.  However, with a schematic and layout that one knows is reasonably solid, then tagboards are nice to work with.  I especially like a tag for a wire and then the inside tags for components.  Cool design.  I've never had one break while playing the amp. The tags only have broken when soldering and de-soldering a lot and using a solder sucker.

With respect, Tubenit