Very nice! Just wondering, did you spray the nitro? I'm curious because I just finished a cabinet and brushed on the finish and was thinking next time I think I would rather try spraying. I haven't done a lot of wood work. Anyways, beautiful!
Yes, it is spray. On guitars, you will start with a paste type grain filler that is tinted, normally I do I should say. I use J.e. Moser's Aniline Dyes - Alcohol Soluble that matches the base color I plan to die the guitar. I started this hobby by restoring old radios in which the cabinets are really the treasure. What I mean is it is easy to find a radio with the electric parts. The old veneered cabinets generally did not do as well. Back in the 30's and 40's homes were not nearly as climate controlled. I say this to explain why I started spraying. The original veneers are very thin and sanding through is easy to do. Lacquers and Shellacs are repairable. Nitrocellulose especially, except it is not as durable as modern finished. When brushing furniture I have had the best luck with Deft, but with Nitrocellulose spray, I wouldn't even recommend using spray cans without ventilation and a filtered mask. I made a portable booth that corners a basement window. I spray inside a floor to ceiling 10 mil poly 2 x 4 frame. If I still had it up, I would take a photo. It has a place for air conditioner filters to get a filtered flow of exhaust fumes. Seriously, I got a deep breath one time years ago and remember it took me a couple of weeks before I could take a deep breath with no pain and since my memory seems to lessen bad events, it was probably worse.
So why would I use it? It simply looks different. Looks like shiny wood, not plastic coated wood. If you get in a hurry it will feel sticky. If the humidity is too low it will cure too fast and generally a PITA to use. The same reason I shellac Tweed, because I am an insane tube amp builder. What else.
The exhaust fan motors cannot contact the solvents as the electric motors exhausting will resemble a NASA rocket launch. Don't ask me how I know.

Read the labels. It is different from finishing furniture where stain and coating of some kind like poly or similar are the sorts of go-to products. Even on guitars today, Poly is the most used. With lacquer, your mixing options are a bit more flexible. For instance, say you have a water-based dye. Mix it with shellac and this will mix in the lacquer. To me, it is easier to match a tint this way. I simply get a sample, in this case, I printed the photos. I knew the original color, a Blond 53 telecaster. This means flathead bolts (they are wood screws, I do not know why we call them bolt-on necks) neck bolts. Flatheads on the PUPS, but the change to Phillips everywhere else. Merle Haggards has no pickguard because Willie Nelson took it off and carved his name on the body, they couldn't remember where he left it. They were hanging out with Townes Van Zandt and recording Pancho and Lefty. Mine does not have this tonal mojo feature and wouldn't unless I meet Willie someday soon.
Anyway, I do not do this often for guitars since I can only play one at a time, or 2 if one is opened tuned. I really like the look of building up tints within the lacquer. If you look at the taped off areas you will see some lemon yellow looking stuff. This is the first die i put over the blond and if the guitar gets direct bright lights it will appear much more yellow since the amber is really red mineral and starts out very light over the yellowed original blond. I hope this makes sense. Like I said, it is not relic nor is the original. The original, which is not the original color is a newer amber nitro done in the early 80's by Fender, but since Willie had carved his name they left it carved.
With every 3 coats, one hour apart it will get a little darker, but still stay translucent and since dyes are minerals with metals present, they reflect to light according to the color you use. The slow transition from yellow to amber means the brighter the light the more yellow it looks. I have seen the finishers at Henredon Furniture in North Carolina do this type of thing with Urethane (what they call it), but I have never been able to get a deep luster with Poly Gloss. Mine ends up looking like plastic. I use Cardinal Brand and Behlens. Behlens is my preference in the gloss lacquer, but it takes longer to harden. Non of this stuff actually cures.