Help with neatness

[alathIN]

I am doing my first amp build (see separate thread) and generally happy-ish with the way things are coming out, but one thing I am struggling with to make it come out neatly is when you have a resistor/cap that is longer than the space between the lugs you're soldering it to.

Look at the resistor in the middle of the picture:

There is something about making the wires do an S-bend that I can't get right.

Who knows the trick for this?

Edit:
In this particular one, the lugs open to the outside and I think I could get this done neatly.
But when the lugs open towards the middle, I can't get the leads through the lugs without re-bending and making unwanted kinks in the lead.

[jjasilli]

Actually, I think that's good enough, BUT:


1.  It looks like you simply poked the R lead through the hole in the lug.  That's not OK.  The proper method is to put a longer the lead through the hole, then bend it back towards the lug.  Both sides of the lead should be crimped against the lug to make a firm "mechanical" connection.  Both sides of the lead should then be soldered to the lug. There are youtube videos; NEET books, old Heathkit & Eico manuals, etc. that show proper solder technique;

EDIT:  this is pretty much what sluckey just said.  From Angela Electronics: solder is not glue.  You need that firm physical connection first.

2.  For neater leads see picture.


EDIT.  If it looks like the lead(s) may short against ea. other, or against another component like the cap in your picture, then you can insulate the lead with some wire insulation or heat shrink tubing.

[shooter]

I do a variant to JJ's description;
I bend a "U" in the lead so it goes in "springloaded", I also know before hand how many leads go in, I "adjust" my length so they kinda 1/2 lap, and I verify "flow" at the other end, soo motor memory keeps feeding n heating till the eye's looking at the other turret end says STOP 

[Ed_Chambley]

I generally place resistors that are like this, caps too, with a complete 180 degree bend where the resistor is pointing out.  If you were working on a PCB, it would be the same a standing up.  See Attached.  Great for building tight areas.  See attached.

[dude]

I hear "mechanical connection" is the proper way but what about changing out components...? That mechanical connection could become a
nightmare, especially on a tube socket. Any advice on getting a crimped R off a socket without overheating? Doesn't take long to ruin the pins on a socket.... I guess use snips, heat, snips, etc...., and go slow?


al

[PRR]

Resistors and chips are disposable. PCBs and good sockets are not. You snip all the leads very close. Use a solder-sucker to get the blobs off. If you can suck it dry, the crimps can be picked open with lobster-fork and needlenose.

Mil/NASA spec 350 degree crimps are NOT normally needed on road-gear. A good snug U-bend is fine.

[Heddok]

I'm a newbie too.   Could you guys recommend a good solder sucker?  I've tried a cheap chinese spring loaded one, absolute garbage.  I have some very small desoldering braid, okay for a small joint on a pcb board but tedious on anything big and very ackward.  Any online sources for a bulb type?

[sluckey]

Get a good one. I've been using this for 45 years. Wore out the Teflon tip on my first one after about 20 years. 

https://www.amazon.com/EDSYN-DS017-Original-Deluxe-SOLDAPULLT/dp/B0047CY9Y0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541719826&sr=8-4&keywords=soldapullt

Bigger solder braid works pretty good too. I make my own by stripping copper braid from RE-58 or RG-59 cable. Put liquid flux on the braid to make it wick the solder better and faster.

[dude]

Speaking of solder braid, never had good luck with it, maybe I'm using it wrong..? Seems like it never really got all the solder off a PCB.


al

[shooter]

never had good luck with it

I use it for most removal, mines all packed up, IIRC ~~3/8", rosin infused, the one you DON't want says something like "no-clean", you wanna clean. 
Aside;
I was using some new stuff and it just wasn't getting it, my 1st thought CQC (china quality control) since it was a re-order of what worked well, my 12th thought, "I'm in the barn, there's a large load on skinny wires, hmm, remove load, wickin fine