Tips for cutting straight lines in thin metal for badge

[BobL]

I'm trying to create some metal amp badges.  I have decals I made to put on them...

I have both some thin aluminum I bought years ago at the hardware store for this purpose, and I believe the first time I used a mitre box and a hacksaw to cut what I needed, then spent a lot of time filing and sanding to even things up... it wasn't ideal.

So, this time, I'm trying to figure out a good way to cut this stuff with straight edges, and ending up pretty frustrated.

I've tried using a dremel with a variety of attachments and a fence, and nothing has really worked well at all.  To me it seems like shears would just bend the edges.

Am I missing something, or is this a pain for everyone?

[Ed_Chambley]

I use a table saw.  Works great.  I just have to file the edges a very little.

[BobL]

I use a table saw.  Works great.  I just have to file the edges a very little.

Are you using a cut off wheel, or some sort of metal cutting blade?

[sluckey]

I would attach the aluminum to a "carrier" board using double sided tape. Then cut on a radial arm saw using a fine tooth plywood blade. Set the blade height to only cut through the aluminum and just barely cut through the board. Rip to width then crosscut to length. Use mineral spirits to soften the glue on the double sided tape and gently pry the aluminum from the board.

[Ed_Chambley]

I use a table saw.  Works great.  I just have to file the edges a very little.

Are you using a cut off wheel, or some sort of metal cutting blade?

Not unless it is thick.  I cut every faceplate with the same saw blade I cut 3/4 inch plywood.

[jjasilli]

Ditto to sluckey.  Though you could also use a table saw or a jig saw; and sandwich the al sheet between two thin sheets of plywood.

[terminalgs]

tin snips for cutting sheet steel or aluminum up to 22 gauge (which is thick for a badge).

[DummyLoad]

chop saw or table saw with a non-ferrous metals/laminates cutting blade. usually these are carbide tipped - the vermont american and delta brands seem to have the longest life.

80 to 96 tooth 10" blades make very nice smooth cuts. softer aluminum can tear so cut SLOWLY. finish the edges with a fine mill file. 

https://www.grainger.com/category/circular-saw-blades/saw-blades/tools/ecatalog/N-163pZ1yzz2mm
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-84-Teeth-Laminate-Non-Ferrous-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1084L/100660707

--pete

[DummyLoad]

and if you have deep(er) pockets..

https://www.harborfreight.com/30-inch-shear-press-brake-and-slip-roll-5907.html

use extends beyond amp building, so management may approve.

--pete

[1blueheron]

How thick is "thin"?   

[Ed_Chambley]

How thick is "thin"?   

1 pica is fairly thick. 1 point is thin.  2 points is sort of thin.


Maybe the attached doc will help.  Personally I consider anything under 0.020 to be thin as this is just over 1/64.  .125 is getting where I prefer faceplates which is 1/8th inch or 3.175mm is the same.

[1blueheron]

Ed,  Great reference table.  Thanks.  OP has still not revealed how thick his "thin" metal is in any measurable term, so maybe this will help him give a quantified measurement.

[BobL]

<-- OP


1/32"


What I actually ended up doing this time around was cutting down the decal and putting it on the back of the fender badge and clear coating it.

[tubeswell]

Take it to an engineering shop with a waterjet and get someone there to do it

[BobL]

Bumping this because I ran into a good solution for someone who doesn't have the shop tools for this.


I ordered a custom sized blank name plate from here:


http://www.plaquemaker.com/tags/blank


Not the cheapest option, but @ $2.60/plate, but for a pro cut job with rounded edges, I can live with it.  Just go into customize to round the edges and specify no mounting.


I have also used these guys to make one-off custom faceplates w/ their laser etched plastic with good results as well.