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Hoffman Amps Forum image Author Topic: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless  (Read 2981 times)

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Offline Thermionic

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2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« on: January 08, 2020, 03:24:47 pm »
Hello everyone! I just finished up this amp based on a Top Hat Club Deluxe. The two "channels" are just two different gain and volume knobs switched in by a DPDT relay so I can have two different settings. It also has a PPIMV and a switchable bypass on the cathode follower stage. Pretty standard stuff boxed into an oversized, double thick 1x10 with a greenback coming in under 32 pounds somehow. Those aren't lips to make the sides look thicker I actually laminated the wood to be twice as thick. I'm not a woodworker or a mechanical engineer I really should not be designing cabinets. 

The actual fun part about this build is that I put in the thing that all boutique/handmade amps are missing that are half the fun of commercial amps: PUSH BUTTONS! To that end, there's a controller board with an ATMEGA328p running a couple relays and two 3mm RG LEDs off the two momentary buttons. Also featured on the controller is an FRAM chip that stores the setting every time it is changed so that when you turn the amp on it goes back to where you set it last. 64kB of storage is overkill for the 3 bytes I'm storing but if this thing gets gigged the on-chip EEPROM would require all sorts of crazy coding to not die after a couple years and the FRAM chip was 2 bucks for 10 trillion writes per slot so  :dontknow:. The chip also stores what the cathode bypass setting is on both channels in case you want it off on channel 2 but on on channel one. Obviously all this can be changed any time I want so not a big deal if I don't end up liking that functionality.

The MIDI jack isn't hooked up to anything because 1) I don't have a stereo jack on hand and 2) I don't have a MIDI controller. The optocoupler circuit is on the back of the control board so all I need to do is pop in the right jack and knock up some code and all 4 settings will be remotely switchable.

I promise the wiring isn't as much of a rats nest as the pictures make it appear, it's really hard to capture.

Functionally, the amp sounds fantastic and does exactly what I wanted it to when I designed it. Unfortunately, I feel like I missed some opportunities here so there will almost certainly be some hot rodding going on. 

Offline Thermionic

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2020, 03:25:22 pm »
Some more pictures

Offline Thermionic

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2020, 03:27:07 pm »
Some wiring shots

Offline tubenit

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2020, 03:33:48 pm »
I would say the wiring looks quite stellar and orderly!  Great job!

With respect, Tubenit

Offline glass54

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2020, 03:58:54 pm »
..Nice Chassis and Front Panel  :icon_biggrin: :blob10:
Kind regards
Mirek
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Offline sluckey

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2020, 04:28:59 pm »
Very nice looking amp.   :thumbsup:
A schematic, layout, and hi-rez pics are very useful for troubleshooting your amp. Don't wait to be asked. JUST DO IT!

Offline kagliostro

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2020, 04:44:57 pm »
 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Franco
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Offline Captain chunkulus

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2020, 06:29:37 pm »
What and where did you get the midi relay board? I've been interested in something like that for awhile and couldn't really find anything.

Offline Captain chunkulus

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2020, 08:10:00 pm »
Hey, just. Saw this. It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like this wire isn't soldered. Could be wrong fwiw. J

Offline Thermionic

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2020, 08:38:13 pm »
What and where did you get the midi relay board? I've been interested in something like that for awhile and couldn't really find anything.

That's a great question and the answer is I made it myself. Here's a little bit on how I developed it.

In the picture you see 3 versions: V1.0 in the top left, V2.0 in the middle and V2.2 in the top right.

V1.0:
This was the original idea. It has an Arduino Pro Mini 5v in the center and the pins are simply connected to standard relay, LED and momentary switch circuits. There is a bridge rectifier and regulator circuit at the very bottom to power the board from the heater line and the MIDI input at the top. I bought it using OshPark's after dark service which gives a black substrate with clear soldermask. Very cool but pretty expensive and takes a full 3 weeks to arrive.

V2.0:
This came about after I realized there was definitely not enough space for the board to be mounted card style (the original was based on recording console boards). I moved to a parallel control board and perpendicular switching daughter board, as well as an on-board chip rather than a soldered in Arduino. This board was just fine until I realized how annoying it would be to have your amp reset its settings every time you turn it on so I wired in an Adafruit SPI FRAM chip to the bootloader programming header. The board on the bottom was soldered into the amp for a week.

V2.1:
I did this layout when I ordered the Adafruit breakout just in case. It was never put into production; the only change was the addition of the chip and its supporting parts.

V2.2:
This is the board you see in the amp. You see that adorable little electrolytic at the bottom of V2.0? It's only 15uF and every time the board finished its setup code the capacitor output would dip below the regulator's dropout voltage and the processor would brown out, resetting itself. Therefore I put in the "Heater" board near the power input with a 4700uF capacitor and a full-size regulator (this board also has a humdinger for the heater supply on the other 6.3v line). This both saves on component count and keeps AC out of my preamp area.


I have a few more boards if you fancy having a go at the majority 0603 and small lead spacing packages I used. These things are prohibitively expensive and very difficult to make; really more of a thought exercise than anything. The parts to populate the board are 30 bucks plus shipping, and the FRAM chip has to come from Digikey since Mouser doesn't stock them. Above that, you have to be able to actually solder the things together. Without an oven, this takes me about 2 hours for the main board, and the switch board is so difficult to put together I pulled it off the first installed one rather than making a new one. Next, you need to solder another Arduino to the SPI header to bang in the bootloader. Finally, you have to develop code for it. This is pretty easy, and I can share mine, but I don't have any MIDI code in there yet so you would have to develop and debug that yourself.

If all that sounds fun to you then you have a few options:
1) I'll make you one for like 100 bucks and load the bootloader. I'm not kidding they're that hard to make. You'd still need a programmer and to add in the MIDI code I haven't done.
2) I'll mail you the boards and send you a parts list and you can make one yourself
3) Use the schematic I posted to develop your own. As you can see above, even if you really know what you're doing this can take months to get right.
4) Buy an Arduino Nano-this board has an FTDI chip on it so you don't need a programmer. Solder it to a bit of perfboard and use through-hole components to build something based on my schematic. This is what I would do because it lets you customize the board to your needs without much risk of expensive failures. If you need an extra relay or more buttons or fewer LEDs or a different layout etc. you can do that without needing a new PCB order. It won't be nearly as small as my solution, but you'll learn something. Again I'm happy to share the code.

Offline Thermionic

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Re: 2 channel based on a Top Hat/Matchless
« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2020, 08:39:42 pm »
Hey, just. Saw this. It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like this wire isn't soldered. Could be wrong fwiw. J

It's soldered very well to the other side of that pin you just can't see it

 


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