Old knees pop alarmingly. Why would an old tank pop? How would it even know "30 seconds"?
I'd be looking for refrigerator, thermostat, wi-fi jabber, or neighbor's welder.
(I did once work where the wall-power went 113-118-113-118-113-118 all day; oddly this didn't pop my gear.)
Great point. Honestly I suspected as much because every time my AC would kick on I would hear it through the amp. I tested the amp in a new location and the pop was gone. This doesn't happen with my other amps. Why this one? It seems very sensitive, does it have something to do with the weird voltage doubling power supply?
IME the reverb ckts. in that amp are basically garbage. leave the tubes out and/or disconnect. use a pedal, better yet, an external stand-alone reverb unit. that valco reverb tank is joke at best.
--pete
Yes the reverb is garbage... When I take the tubes out the reverb circuit buzz is gone. I think I'm just going to call it with this one and maybe eventually do something different with that rats nest on that side of the amp.
On old amp noise and buzz can come from many places.
I'm sure you know that :
1-Test if heater center tap is working. I, one time see center tap not working. I use 2 X 100 ohs resistors to ground.
2- Is the input jacks's shorting contact to ground are working ?
3- Old tubes' plate resistors may be noisy , put new ones.
4- Schematic show this amp have a 3 prong cable. Right ?
1-center tap was good
2-silvertone didnt install shorting jacks... but I shorted the tip and no change
3-I replaced every plate resistor in the amp
4-it didnt have one but I installed one
I honestly think the noisy channel 2 is the long string of wire that travels from one side of the chassis to the other where the reverb switch is AND the fact that the tone stack is right on top of the power transformer. When I short the reverb wire/remove the tubes the amp is much quieter. Most of the critical Ch2 wiring goes right under the filament light, the power transformer, and right near the filter caps... What was silvertone thinking? I guess these were cheap back in 1960 too. I'll have to try a real shielded cable next time I order parts.