*UPDATE* I just received the fuses in the mail and replaced them. Once I turned on the power, the pilot light came on for about a second and then went off. I haven't opened the amp back up yet, but I'm assuming it just popped the fuse(s) that I just replaced. Any idea why or anything that I can try/test?
Fuses are designed to blow when too much current goes through them. So, look for the cause of 'too much current'. Its a process of elimination.
The first thing you can do is check the PT is not shorted internally. Pull the tubes out and disconnect all PT secondary windings and (making sure the winding ends are not shorting to the chassis, or to each other) pop a new mains fuse in and switch the power on. If the fuse blows, it is likely a shorted PT. If it doesn't blow, then you'll know the short is in the circuit(s) after the secondary windings. Hook up the heaters next, and if the fuse still doesn't blow, then hook up the bias supply and check you've got negative voltages on the output tube grid pins. If that's okay, and the fuse still doesn't blow, then hook up the rectifier and the reservoir cap (without the tubes in) with amp off standby. If that blows, you'll know its a shorted rectifier and/or reservoir capacitor. If it doesn't blow, put the output tubes in and switch standby on see if the fuse blows (in which case it's shorted something else, like a shorted turn in a choke (in which case, disconnect the choke and see if fuse still blows), shorted bleeder resistor or output tube. If it's any other shorted filter cap, other than the reservoir cap, the fuse may not blow straight away (although supply resistors will probably cook and smoke). continue looking for shorts between power supply voltage sources and the ground etc etc
I'm assuming you're smart enough to take all safety precautions when changing hookups around with the power off, caps discharged and the plug disconnected from the mains etc etc . If you don't know this, then leave the amp for someone else to fix