Chassis Recommendations

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Imntgrumpy
Posts: 5
(3/23/04 8:56 pm)
  Chassis Recommendations
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 OK! Now I've done it. Nothing like jumping in feet first. I just finished ordering most of the parts I'll need to build my first "scratch" built amp. I'm using Doug AB763 circuit design but I'm drilling my own board. I'm already into this for $350.00 in parts. I have at least another $100+ to go.

Goodbye $$$


Now when I say Scratch-built I mean scratch-built. I intend on making the chassis, cabinet and circuit board myself. I was just wondering if anyone else has done the same. If so, do you have any suggestions, other than "What was I thinking." I'm particularly interested in how anyone made their own chassis'. I'm planning on copying a Fender deluxe Reverb chassis and cabinet.

This will be me soon.

 
wshubert
Junior tube assistant
Posts: 5
(3/24/04 6:18 pm)
  chassis
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 I've made a few and I do know this make it strong and so it does not flex. amp worked fine on the bench ,blew
fuses when mounted in the cabinet. A 1/4" too long mounting screw barely touching the fuse holder. take your time when laying out componet mountings making sure there is enough space between them and all of the little details like holes for the pins on pots so they won't
spin if they aren't tight enough. "D"hole for AC cord so it won't spin .Then after you've thought of all these details and layed them out on the metal youll need greenlee chassis punches for the larger holes $30-$40 each. you can do without the "d"punch if it is your amp.I guess everybody needs to make one once to see what goes in to design and fabing one. sorry i got a little long winded ,iguess you could write book on chassis making at least a chapter.
 
jc
I only work on Fender's
Posts: 686
(3/24/04 7:10 pm)
  layout
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 Take your time and do the layout to size on graph paper. You can then transfer it over to the chassis. I normally use the hammond chassis and drill them with a stepper bit (cheaper than the hole punches but more prone to error).
The hardest thing for me is to leave places for mounting the chassis to the cabinet. Plan these 4 holes up front instead of at the end. Do you know what kind of mounting brackets you will be using? Doug sells a couple of size so make sure to plan for them. I usually forget and have to wing it.

Measure twice and cut once. Take your time and remember that you can always make a hole bigger.

 
 
Moosehead2
Junior tube assistant
Posts: 53
(3/25/04 2:09 pm)
  re
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 I have made my own tweed princeton type chassis with great results. Of coarse everything said above is right on the money. Do you have the machines to form the metal?
 
tk74
Junior tube assistant
Posts: 3
(3/25/04 4:35 pm)
  Re: re
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 I just finished my first scratch build(5f6a head) using the methods which jc described and I couldn't be happier with the results. The most important thing to remember is to take your time. Don't rush it. It's easy to overlook things when you get in a hurry. Doug's website and this forum, as well as Gerald Weber's books, were invaluable sources of information for me.

To address your chassis question, I had a local welding/machine shop build one for me. I had them take a flat piece of aluminum and bend it on two ends to form the top, front, and back. For the ends I had them weld in pieces of 3/4" thick aluminum. I tapped the ends for 1/4" bolts and it works great. The whole thing cost me $40(materials/labor). Doug sells this style of chassis if you don't want to go through the trouble of having one made.

Good luck on your build and I hope you're as happy with yours as I am with mine.



Edited by: tk74 at: 3/25/04 8:52 pm
 
 
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