Tolex Glue Alternative?

[vintasonic]

Hi

Anybody have any suggestions for an option for Tolex glue?  It's kind of expensive and gets weird after time - I have an older bottle that I use to repair rips but I have a head I have to re-cover and it wouldn't work for that.

I remember reading somewhere about a water based substitute but I lost that info a long time ago.  I think it may just have been a water based contact cement but not sure.

Thanks
Mark Springer
Vintasonic

[Blueboozer]

Contact cement, but you’ll need a well ventilated area.  I’ve been using some glue I got from AES.

https://www.tubesandmore.com/search/node/Tolex%20glue

Of course I can’t vouch for the time test (I’ve not been using it that long) but it's fairly easy to use and has stuck so far.

[PRR]

I stuck Wilsonart (other-brand Formica) to chipboard for a kitchen counter. It was pretty good at sticking to everything in sight, including my shirt. I can't see why it would not stick to about anything with a weave. The stuff I had, the fumes would make you high then sick (Toluene, Distillates, Methyl ethyl ketone). I had to use heat-lamp to work in the garage in Maine in winter. You have to drop it perfect (dowels under formica) as it has little/no slide once "set". So it may be too aggressive for neat Tolexing.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-32-fl-oz-Original-Contact-Cement-00272/100125525
Check date code; the stuff does not keep.

Hmmmm. 2 years ago it was on the rack at my Home Depot. Today I'd have to drive an hour to find a H-D with stock. Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc may or may not be in stock. Between shipping delays and crazy house market it may be goofy availability.

[dude]

I’ve used 3M adhesive in big spray cans for Formica countertops and Tolex, works well, way less toxic flumes. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it for Tolex, and way easier. But you have to follow the directions letting it dry a bit before adhering, Home Depot, Lowe’s all carry it.

[jordan86]

I’ve only tolexed one combo cab. With a more experienced buddy’s oversight. He likes the Dap weldwood contact cement. The fumes will kill your brain, but it works well and is affordable.

They make a less fumey, water based version as well that I’ve read is pretty much the same thing as the AES/Mojotone tolex glue. I’ve not personally verified that claim though. Not sure how I would either. Plus, it is much more expensive than the regular brain killing dap.

[thetragichero]

i like this stuff a lot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-32-fl-oz-Nonflammable-Contact-Cement-25332/100174435
besides the no fumes, you get a little more work time and if you get glue on front of the tolex (i ALWAYS do) a wet rag should clean it up (i keep a 5 gallon bucket of warm water with a rag in it next to me). in general soap and water cleanup

the only thing i can strongly urge about it: if it gets in your leg/arm hair, wash it off before it dries because otherwise it's like a diy waxing... OUCH

[Bieworm]

I use this from tube town. It's white and very liquid. It applies like paint... not stick at all when using it. It sticks like hell when it dries.
A small 10$ can has been enough to tolex 3 combo cabs.  BIG combo cabs!!! And no small at all!!!
I used Pattex before. 1 20$ can per combo and rubs up when it's taking too long...
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/tolex-glue-sg5-500-ml.html

[ac427v]

I had a really bad experience using DAP waterbase on a fender style cab with overlapping seams. It made a poor bond where the top fabric-backed surface of tolex was glued to the lower layer slippery side. Had to strip that cabinet  and reglue with AES waterbase. I have had inconsistent results with the solvent-based DAP. It seems to be very sensitive to the expiration date. If I get tired of paying the high price for AES, I will try sheet vinyl flooring adhesive.

[Bieworm]

I had a really bad experience using DAP waterbase on a fender style cab with overlapping seams. It made a poor bond where the top fabric-backed surface of tolex was glued to the lower layer slippery side. Had to strip that cabinet  and reglue with AES waterbase. I have had inconsistent results with the solvent-based DAP. It seems to be very sensitive to the expiration date. If I get tired of paying the high price for AES, I will try sheet vinyl flooring adhesive.

Careful with that sheet vinyl flooring adhesive. Been there, done that!. It too ages to finally cure ... kept being soft and too gummy. Depends on the product specs you use ofcourse

[vintasonic]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

The Wilsonart was what I was thinking of, but if I remember right it's either kind of pricey or is only available in large quantities.  I didn't track it down because I know that I crossed it off the list.

The info about the DAP is very welcome, I was thinking about using it - I think it was at Menard's that someone showed it to me when I asked about water based contact cement.

I have used the 3M spray stuff (#77 I think?) but I find it a little too sticky and a little hard to control.

So I guess I will bite the bullet and buy tolex glue in the end. I actually have a few other empty cabinets that need to get turned into amps, so I guess I'll just improve my tolexing skills

Thanks

[thetragichero]

the spray contact adhesive peeled up when left in an un-air conditioned church. total bummer

never tried the waterbased on a fender-style overlap cab because i've never done one (i think they look rather sloppy)

[PRR]

...The Wilsonart was what I was thinking of, but if I remember right it's either kind of pricey or is only available in large quantities.....

We bought all new cabinets in white. For the one side we specified a custom top with backsplash and waterfall made in Formica 204 butcherblock.
https://www.formica.com/products/lamhome/00204
Looked great! Blew the entire budget!! (That post-forming aint cheap.)

Now it gets strange. Out in the firewood shed there was “a roll of laminate”. I looked, it was WilsonArt Fonthill Pear 10745, “inconspicuous planking, slight anigre movement, and small-scale, soft cathedrals”. (What do these poets smoke?)
https://www.wilsonart.com/fonthill-pear-10745
Three 10-foot rolls! But made in 1982. Does it go bad? Can I work with it? Does it clash with Formica 204?

So I made a test block to learn the process. We set the 10745 on the 204 and yes it is not the same, more subtle and refined. OTOH it is very nice stuff, it is the other side of the kitchen, and absolutely free!

Several days of snorting MDF and laminate crumbs later, the result is mellow, soothing, and beautiful.

I have no idea if WilsonArt sells the stick-um. (They do, from small cans to 55-gallon drum and 330-gallon tote, in multiple flavors.)

[PRR]

Argh! Something happens to your memory when you snort toluene but I forget what.

In 2018 Home Depot was stocking WilsonArt 600 goo next to the rollers and shears.

[aajeffcote]

I use a water based adhesive from Mojotone named Truglu that works great. Did use the Weldwood, which also works great but I don't like the fumes or the instant "grab", meaning you have to get it right the first time. The Truglu is much more forgiving, easier to work with.

[acheld]

I've also used TruGlu.  It is less aggressive, maybe easier to work with than the usual suspects (3M 90 spray, Weldwood, etc). In the summer months I like the sprays, 'cause I can take the project outside.  When it's cold, TruGlu seems safer indoors.   However, there are some things to pay attention to:

1.  It takes longer to develop "tack" than expected, quite a bit longer in my experience.  But then it does . . .
2.  Be careful with Tweed coverings that you don't saturate the Tweed -- best to use several thin coats on the Tweed.  Saturated Tweed does not look right.  Ask me how I know.
3.  TruGlu has a shelf life.  For me, it did not work for a project three months after I opened the bottle. (The initial project was fine). They say it will last a year.
4.  Very much worth your time to practice before you tackle your actual project! 

[mresistor]

I just use the weldwood and wear a respirator that is rated for the vapors. You can get the respirators at Home Depot. The thing with it is to let it tack up good because when not all the way dry it can shrink some of the tolex's. Use a good quality cloth backed tolex.  And I use the brush on on the cabinet and the spray on the cloth which really speeds up the process.  https://www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/adhesives/contact-cement/weldwood-contact-cem/
Don't waste your time with 3M Super 77 ..

[dbishopbliss]

I've also used TruGlu.  It is less aggressive, maybe easier to work with than the usual suspects (3M 90 spray, Weldwood, etc). In the summer months I like the sprays, 'cause I can take the project outside.  When it's cold, TruGlu seems safer indoors.   However, there are some things to pay attention to:

1.  It takes longer to develop "tack" than expected, quite a bit longer in my experience.  But then it does . . .
2.  Be careful with Tweed coverings that you don't saturate the Tweed -- best to use several thin coats on the Tweed.  Saturated Tweed does not look right.  Ask me how I know.
3.  TruGlu has a shelf life.  For me, it did not work for a project three months after I opened the bottle. (The initial project was fine). They say it will last a year.
4.  Very much worth your time to practice before you tackle your actual project!

I have been using this stuff as well. Works great. Like magic. Just make sure you let it rest for at least 20 minutes before trying to stick the fabric on the cabinet. If it is wet at all it will not stick. I had better luck when it was low humidity. I tried using it inside and had to let it rest much longer. Its very forgiving for those of us that need practice repositioning things.

[alerich]

The white tolex glue that AES sells did a great job for me. I have done two heads and a closed back 4x12 cabinet with it and they still look great a few years later. I did one of the heads and the 4x12 cab with the 3M Spray stuff and I'll never use it again. Worked great for a few months until the tolex started peeling up. The big square section on the back of the 4x12 cab literally just gradually fell off onto the floor. Removing tolex and prepping the wood once is no fun. It's really no fun doing it twice. Go with the AES glue. Easy to use and no bad smell that will knock you out. I don't think you'll be disappointed.