turret board hot glue wont stick

[joesatch]

have some leads soldered under my board. i tried to hot glue reinforce these but hot glue dont stick well at all. What can i use?

[jordan86]

Silicone?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Advanced-Silicone-2-2-8-oz-Clear-Silicone-Caulk/5004217921

[glass54]

I use a dab of Neutral Cure Silicon (Silastic).
I WOULD NOT use Hot glue, as nearly every amp I have seen (esp Fender) the glue falls away from the board(s) and you have an unruley blob hanging off your wires. When used on components esp large electrolytics it adds to problem when the glue comes unstuck.
Regards
Mirek

[acheld]

I use Permatex gasket sealer -- a dab is all you need.   (But take care, it is sticky as all get out).

I happened to have a tube of this stuff on hand in the past when I ran into this issue, and have used it ever since.  Works well.

[joesatch]

thanks folks

[uki]

Connections under the board may prove difficult to access if necessary and out of sight, on top of the board makes things a lot easier.

[joesatch]

Connections under the board may prove difficult to access if necessary and out of sight, on top of the board makes things a lot easier.

i know. kicking myself for not drilling extra holes next to the turrets.

[sluckey]

I've never had a reason to use any glue on my boards. And I certainly would not use anything as messy as permatex. Can you explain why you need to do this? Can we see a pic of what you are doing?

[joesatch]

I can when i get home. Essentially i populated the board before doing the under board traces. I wanted to reinforce some of these wires "just in case" dont want them falling out. 

[sluckey]

I don't do wires from the bottom like that because they very well may fall out. All of my interconnecting wires, ie, board to pots, sockets, etc., securely wrap around the barrel of the turret. And if I need an underboard jumper I use 24awg, pushed all the way through the turret and folded back down on the outside of the turret. This little hook prevents the jumper from ever falling out of the board. Look at this webpage to see how my board wiring is done...

     http://sluckeyamps.com/VAC15/ac15.htm

[joesatch]

i might rip all the wires out and drill some holes to pull the wires up and around the turrets. Won't sleep at night thinking one of these B+ wires will fall out and ground on the chassis. It might be tricky all the components are already soldered in

[acheld]

Sluckey, I'm out of the "office" so to speak, so pics will have to follow later.

Most of my builds have three or four under board jumpers; the habit picked up from Hoffman boards.

The jumpers must be: 

1. Secure from falling out when I solder the turret above.  I am aware of and have used the "hook" method in the past, but it often crowds the turret when I use fat resistor leads, and I don't like it.  Admittedly, that has been with 22AWG wire, not 24 which I have not had on hand until recently. And of course, my soldering and organizational skills are not in your league.
2. And, secure from below, as I will pass some leads under the board during final assembly.

What I do is place a dab of Permatex on the underboard wire close to it's connection on each end after the jumper has been soldered in place; I only allow about an 1/8" of wire going up into the turret.  Permatex has the advantage (and disadvantage) of being very sticky.   When it dries it is not susceptible to heat.  If I goof, a razor blade makes quick work removing the stuff -- after it dries.  Other forms of silicone rubber would be similar, but most gasket forming sealants have great characteristics after it is cured.  Firm, but pliable, and razor blades clean it up more easily than silicone caulking compound, and of course it is impervious to the heat of an amplifier. 

I am not making a claim that this is best practice.  But it is certainly better than hot glue! And it is safe.

[joesatch]

[joesatch]

imma do something crazy and make a huge mess. Imma put this stuff on the bottom in many spots and over the solder joints to hold the wires all in "just in case" this goop resists oil!!

[dude]

i might rip all the wires out and drill some holes to pull the wires up and around the turrets. Won't sleep at night thinking one of these B+ wires will fall out and ground on the chassis. It might be tricky all the components are already soldered in

Joe l can’t possibly see a wire up threw a turret and bent over coming loose…, that’s a lot of work ripping out bd., drilling a hole, etc. if you have enough wire on the ends do what Sluckley does. Only difference is l use 22 gauge, just preference.

[sluckey]

Big mistake IMO. It would be much better to just make a reliable connection. It would be easy to drill holes next to the turrets like I do if that appeals to you. I would attach two pieces of 1x2 along the top edges of the board with screws through your mounting holes and then drill from the bottom side of the board. A drill press makes this easier, but a hand drill works pretty good too. Most of the holes are along the edges of the board. The few holes that are on the interior of the board are easy too, just stop the drill as soon as the bit passes through. Take your time and be careful and you won't damage any components. That only leaves a few board jumpers to deal with.
 

[joesatch]

Big mistake IMO. It would be much better to just make a reliable connection. It would be easy to drill holes next to the turrets like I do if that appeals to you. I would attach two pieces of 1x2 along the top edges of the board with screws through your mounting holes and then drill from the bottom side of the board. A drill press makes this easier, but a hand drill works pretty good too. Most of the holes are along the edges of the board. The few holes that are on the interior of the board are easy too, just stop the drill as soon as the bit passes through. Take your time and be careful and you won't damage any components. That only leaves a few board jumpers to deal with.

alright i'll do that.