guitar amplifier control panel/fascia graphics

[jackplug1]

Is there any useful resource knowledge base out there such as clipart or creative software?

[thetragichero]

i use inkscape with a 1/4" grid and also print out 1/4" graph paper to determine locations before using the pc

[dwinstonwood]

I've also used Inkscape. It's open source (free) and basically does what Illustrator will do (I now have the Adobe suite).
I buy two-layer laserable acrylic and laser engrave it at work. Here's their gold with a black engraving layer:
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/euro-gold-on-black-laserable-acrylic-sheet

This is my AC15 faceplate using their blue acrylic with a white engraving layer.

[jackplug1]

I'm wondering if this would work:
apply a reversed printed laserprinter transfer sheet to a clear panel of perspex / plexiglass and then spray the surface with an opaque colour so that the printed surface would be visable from the front through the clear plastic

[thetragichero]

sounds similar (but higher tech) than what marshall did with their plexi amps, no?

[Bieworm]

I design mine in Vector.  Then I spraypaint an oversized sheet of 2mm thick cast plexi.  A buddy of mine is a school teacher in hitech mechanics.. he lasers them out with real good equipment. They're lasercut to size and even the holes are cut.
Then I spraypaint over the back.  Voila

[Bieworm]

I design mine in Vector.  Then I spraypaint an oversized sheet of 2mm thick cast plexi.  A buddy of mine is a school teacher in hitech mechanics.. he lasers them out with real good equipment. They're lasercut to size and even the holes are cut.
Then I spraypaint over the back.  Voila

[cliffs_trip]

I don't think I've seen a comprehensive resource or cache of information specifically tailored to the creation of faceplate artwork.  I've seen several methods in other forums, but I do believe vector graphics programs are used the most.

I use inkscape mainly because it is free and there are a large amount of video tutorials and helpful information available easily with a search.

There may be specific methods you will want to focus on.  Say you want to curve the numbers to a circle, such as what you see around the knob, you would want to follow a tutorial on how to wrap text around a circle for whatever vector graphics program you choose.

Like was mentioned before, once you have a graphic file of that layout, it can be used for several purposes.  The info can be imported into a CAD/CAM software and the holes can be machined.  Engraving can also be performed for the letters.  If you really want to do any cutting or engraving though, make sure to get CAST Acrylic sheet NOT Extruded.  Extruded tends to melt and junk up the cutting blade and can look like crap.  Cast has a tendency to chip out better and not melt as easy.

Heck, you could use the file to make a blank and then create a silicone mold then cast the faceplate with epoxy resin(One of my next ventures, as I'm already testing out casting knobs).

[dwinstonwood]

It might be sort of hard to see in this screenshot, but the cut lines for the holes and the edges of the faceplate are .07 pt. vector lines. That's what the laser cutter I use wants. The letters and numbers are raster graphics. Those are the areas that get engraved. So, there are two operations: cutting the material all the way through, and shallow engraving into the surface.

[cliffs_trip]

I'm wondering if this would work:
apply a reversed printed laserprinter transfer sheet to a clear panel of perspex / plexiglass and then spray the surface with an opaque colour so that the printed surface would be visable from the front through the clear plastic

It's worth it to try this method.

I would source some of the transfer paper and spray paint to test and see if there would be any reaction between the paint and the transfer paper material.  I've ruined a few finishes due to not testing.

Several methods I have used :
Printed paper cutouts glued to wood veneer faceplate and clear coated.
Rub on letters directly onto painted chassis and sprayed with a clear coat.
Vinyl stencil and spray paint - hard to keep clean edges with small lettering and numbers.
Screen printing - This is not so hard to setup, just a lot of back and forth and quite a bit of setup and research.
CNC milling wood
CNC milling cast acrylic with rear side painted, then back-fill engraving with contrasting color.
Currently experimenting with creating epoxy resin faceplates.

Here is a good explanation of how one place makes their faceplates, may help generate some ideas :

-Heath