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Hoffman Amps Forum image Author Topic: Mystery 50's Guild amp, BIG restoration project!  (Read 2046 times)

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Offline idontknowyou

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Mystery 50's Guild amp, BIG restoration project!
« on: July 09, 2022, 10:32:49 am »
Hello! I'm a long time reader of this forum and have only posted one other time. I'm a trained luthier but have been getting into tube amps in the last few years and decided to do it the way I first started with guitars: buy broken things and learn how to fix them. Last year I bought this old Guild amp from the 50s. It isn't part of the Master amp line, and doesn't seem to match any catalogue listings. (I even checked with the guild nerds at the letstalkguild forum) Unsurprisingly there is no schematic or any documentation I can find. So I went about tracing out the schematic, which I will post pics of below, along with pics of the amp chassis. I know this is going to be a very long term project but I want to do it right and try to restore this thing to its full glory. It's clear that someone had been in it at some point because the tremolo channel has sprague orange drops in it. I'm a little worried that the circuit itself has been changed but there's no real way to know I suppose.
Before I start replacing things I want to have the best understanding of the circuit as possible, so I thought I'd ask some questions of this very knowledgeable community. Before diving in, allow me to apologize in advance for my schematic drawing. This is my first attempt at tracing out and drawing a schematic. Not all the component values are listed yet because I'm a little colorblind and have to rely on my partner to confirm the color codes on the components (lol).

Ok first line of questioning: The normal channel seems pretty straightforward but the tremolo channel makes no sense to me. It seems as though the oscillator is in the signal path after the first gain stage, and the speed and intensity controls are far away. This is made extra confusing because there are a couple broken wires (labeled by the question marks on the schematic) but I can't figure out where they would connect. I'll post some close up pictures of the broken wires as well. Does anyone have any particular insights on this? I'm mostly just familiar with fender style tremolos. There's no optocoupler so I would assume this is a bias wiggle of some variety, maybe fluctuating the bias of a preamp tube? But even if that's true I can't figure out what the proper connection should be. This is also the only part of the amp that seems to have been modified in any way so it's quite possible that it isn't stock anymore.

Next, the preamp tube sockets are labeled but not on the power amp chassis. Based on the wiring I feel confident that I properly identified which tube serves which function, but don't know what specific tubes should be used. I have currently assumed the output tubes are 6v6s, that would match the pinout and the era. Both the phase inverter and the gain stage afterward (never seen that before!) Are dual triodes and since the preamp section uses all 6S*7s I'm assuming they are some variety of that. My thought was that down the road after some component replacement, when it's safe to turn it on, I would measure voltages without tubes and use that as a way to cross reference what tube should be used. Is this a good strategy? Does anyone have any other thoughts or tips?

I found info on the acrosound company but could not find info on this specific OT. It says it's ultralinear but it seems like the ultralinear taps are tied together to effectively act as the center tap. But there's one connection to the OT that I can't figure out. There's a wire directly from the OT connected through a resistor to pin 3 of the phase inverter. Assuming this is a 6S*7 dual triode this would be the cathode of the 1st triode. Would this be some form of negative feedback?

I've read many opinions on standby switch functions and placement, and know that the method employed in this amp is not used very often anymore. I like the idea of keeping this as original as possible but want to change out what is necessary for modern safety and reliability standards (i.e. 3 wire power cable, removal of "death cap" etc...). My question is, does having the standby switch on the high voltage secondary center tap of the power transformer present any serious reliability or safety concern? Does anyone have any strong opinions on whether to move or reconfigure the standby switch in this situation?

*more to follow, original post was too long so I have to split it into 2*

schemA by nick romy, on Flickr

schemB by nick romy, on Flickr

Offline idontknowyou

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Re: Mystery 50's Guild amp, BIG restoration project!
« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2022, 10:37:04 am »
There are 4 mystery connections / broken wires. They are all labeled as question marks on the schematic. Here are some additional details.
1- One side of the intensity pot has a shielded wire attached to it that is about the same length as the shielded wire leading to the center wiper connection. It's long enough to reach to almost any point within the tremolo channel preamp section, but because many of the caps have been replaced I can't tell where the wire broke off from.
2- The grids of V4 in the preamp section are tied together and have a grid leak resistor to ground, and have the remnants of a broken connection
3- The cathodes of V4 are also tied together and have a resistor and cathode bypass cap to ground, but there is also another resistor going off to a terminal with no other connection, so I assume that should lead somewhere.
4- The plate of V4B has a .022 coupling cap (one of the new replacements) to a resistor, then to nothing.
I'm assuming that some of these broken connections should in fact lead to each other, but I can't wrap my head around how it would work.Also to note, the footswitch wire ground is intact, and the shielded wire is very short. It can only possibly reach a couple places. Assuming it goes to one of these obvious broken connections, it could only reach point 2 or 3. going to the grids makes no sense to me, if it was connected to point 3 then it would ground the extra resistor leading off the cathodes of V4 and maybe bias that tube to the point of shutting off? I just don't understand how this is related to the tremolo because I can't see how it should be properly connected together. As it is, everything seems separated from the actual oscillator. I'm cornfused (I live in Indiana).
Some things to note:
- The preamp and power amp sections of this amp are physically separated and connected via 2 umbilical style cables. One of them connects the transformer to the power and standby switch (one rotary style switch that functions as both) and carries the 6.3v filament winding to the preamp tubes. The other carries the guitar signal and the B+ high voltage. I realized after I took the pictures that I made a couple mistakes in my system of labeling. It shouldn't affect the reading of the schematic but I will amend this in a future version. 
- On the schematics, each section has the tubes labeled by number advancing from the left to the right of the chassis as depicted when looking from the inside view, left to right.
- I drew out the oscillator the same way it is physically laid out in the chassis, due to my ineptitude.
- All the input jacks are identical and parallel except for the "solo" jack, so I consolidated the schematic drawing to save space.- I drew V4 backwards in terms of the pinout, in relation to how I dew the rest of the tubes.
- There is a hardwired foot switch for the tremolo but that wire has also broken so I don't know where it was originally wired. I think I'd like to change this from a permanent hard wired cable to a 1/4" or RCA connector.
- There are a couple places in the tremolo channel where the newer components have been used where multiple film capacitors are used in parallel. Specifically, the two .1 caps in between the grid of v3 and the intensity pot, and the two caps in parallel after the .05 coupling cap coming off of the plate of V3A (pin 2) and the components leading to the speed pot. Is there any purpose of using 2 capacitors in parallel other than to increase the total capacitance? I know it's difficult to make assumptions about component replacement when there is no original schematic to reference. Impossible to know what was there before and impossible to know the intention of the person who added the new components.

I also want to welcome any and all constructive criticism. I am still very new to all of this and am hungry for knowledge and improvement!
Thank you all in advance for any help you are willing to give to this very ambitious project I have taken on. I am excited to share the results as they develop! :)
-Nick-
« Last Edit: July 09, 2022, 11:19:10 am by idontknowyou »

Offline idontknowyou

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Re: Mystery 50's Guild amp, BIG restoration project!
« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2022, 10:37:45 am »
aaaaaand here are the rest of the photos because I keep hitting the max character limit.

prechassis by nick romy, on Flickr

powerchassis by nick romy, on Flickr

transformer by nick romy, on Flickr

preamp by nick romy, on Flickr

poweramp by nick romy, on Flickr

Offline sluckey

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Re: Mystery 50's Guild amp, BIG restoration project!
« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2022, 11:19:23 am »
Divide and conquer. Fix the power amp first. Probably only needs new filter caps and coupling caps to make it work. You would need to connect a 1M resistor from V1 pin 1 to ground. Then insert a line level signal to V1 pin 1 to test. The NFB wire probably just connects to the OT secondary.

Set the preamp chassis aside for now and don't clutter your mind with thoughts about it until the power amp is up and running.

A schematic, layout, and hi-rez pics are very useful for troubleshooting your amp. Don't wait to be asked. JUST DO IT!

 


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