New build - What to do with tight tube sockets

[JPK]

I'm pretty disappointed in myself right now. This is a new build and I think I made a rookie mistake yesterday. After soldering my 4 tube sockets' heater circuits, I couldn't push the tubes in the sockets to test my heater circuit. The power tube went in deep enough but the pre-amp tubes barely at all. I didn't want to push so hard as I was concerned about the glass breaking in my fingers. The heaters all light up and the tubes are warm, but I'm concerned about the pins seating properly. My dilemma is should I just scrap the sockets and buy new ones? Since the wires are all twisted, cut and sized, it wouldn't be too hard to swap them out at this point. I don't want to do any more soldering until I figure out what to do. I think I went overboard on the amount of solder and/or probably left the iron on there a little too long, and got solder in the socket receptacle contact points. I haven't built an amp in years and forgot about this issue (it happened before but not nearly as bad). I didn't try plugging the tubes into the sockets before I soldered them, but I'm pretty sure I did this with too much solder/heat. Maybe you guys have some tips like holding the amp at a 90 degree angle so the solder can't wick down into the sockets? Or just not too much solder/heat?

[Bieworm]

Just bite the bulletin and replace them.
I always put an old bad tube in the socket I'm soldering

[thetragichero]

i think i've finally burned through my last micalex-like preamp tube socket. was miffed because they were slightly more expensive than genuine belton sockets but the socket pins are smaller and if they don't fall out, the socket can suck up solder so that a tube won't fit

[JPK]

Just bite the bulletin and replace them.
I always put an old bad tube in the socket I'm soldering

I just ordered new ones. I'm looking for ways to avoid it on the new ones. You say to use an old 12AX7 in the socket while I solder? That's a good idea to keep the pins aligned. I just fear I might solder it in.

[JPK]

i think i've finally burned through my last micalex-like preamp tube socket. was miffed because they were slightly more expensive than genuine belton sockets but the socket pins are smaller and if they don't fall out, the socket can suck up solder so that a tube won't fit

Because of your post I ordered the genuine Beltons. I just wonder if these Beltons are a little tight when new? Or did I make them tight soldering?

[acheld]

Placing an old tube in the socket while soldering the pins really helps.   It would be very unlikely for you to solder the tube in place! 

I normally use Belton sockets obtained from known sources (too many counterfeits of these on eBray) -- and test them for fit before they are installed in the chassis.

One trick to clean up your socket wiring -- don't bother with insulated wire in between pins 4 and 5 (on a Novel socket).  Make up a small jumper with 24 or 22AWG bare wire -- saves room and makes it easier to wire in your heaters.

IF you lay your twisted pair heater circuit against the floor of the chassis, orienting the socket with pin 1 and 9 toward the back allows you to bring your heater wires through the gap and over to pins 4-5 very cleanly. I'm probably not describing this well, but I hope you understand.   If you use the Fender "over the top" method of flying heater wires, of course, socket orientation don't matter.

[JPK]

Placing an old tube in the socket while soldering the pins really helps.   It would be very unlikely for you to solder the tube in place! 

I normally use Belton sockets obtained from known sources (too many counterfeits of these on eBray) -- and test them for fit before they are installed in the chassis.

One trick to clean up your socket wiring -- don't bother with insulated wire in between pins 4 and 5 (on a Novel socket).  Make up a small jumper with 24 or 22AWG bare wire -- saves room and makes it easier to wire in your heaters.

IF you lay your twisted pair heater circuit against the floor of the chassis, orienting the socket with pin 1 and 9 toward the back allows you to bring your heater wires through the gap and over to pins 4-5 very cleanly. I'm probably not describing this well, but I hope you understand.   If you use the Fender "over the top" method of flying heater wires, of course, socket orientation don't matter.

I actually may have placed a tube in the sockets during soldering on the last amp but I can't remember. Too long ago. I will use an old 9 pin tube on the new sockets. You know I wonder if I just removed all the wires and re-soldered each one with a tube in the "damaged" sockets, that they may straighten out? May be a lot of trouble for nothing. Like I said the new ones are on order.


Thanks I think I get what you're saying. To orientate the 1 and 9 to the wall of the chassis. Then use the gap between 1 and 9 to route the heater wires? Maybe the next one. I don't want to re-do all that. Heater wiring is not my favorite.

[sluckey]

I don't see how you could get solder down into the pin grippers on those sockets. If you did, then you need to change your soldering style and use less solder. Maybe the new sockets are just tight. Use an old tube and shove it in the sockets. Use the amount of force to insert fully. Then wallow the tube around a little bit.

If no joy, then use an air compressor. While heating the socket pin enough to melt the solder blow the melted solder out from the top side of the chassis.

[JPK]

I don't see how you could get solder down into the pin grippers on those sockets. If you did, then you need to change your soldering style and use less solder. Maybe the new sockets are just tight. Use an old tube and shove it in the sockets. Use the amount of force to insert fully. Then wallow the tube around a little bit.

If no joy, then use an air compressor. While heating the socket pin enough to melt the solder blow the melted solder out from the top side of the chassis.

Yeah that's just my theory of the root cause. I'm not sure what happened actually. Maybe when I was holding the pin 4/5 jumper in place I pushed on the tabs, angling the gripper, then when the solder cooled, it was on an angle. I just never had tubes so hard to push in. And I wish I had tested the tube sockets fit BEFORE I soldered them.


I'll do as you suggested and use an old tube to try and loosen them up. The new ones can always be kept in stock as spares for new projects. I just retired 6 months so I will need amp projects to keep me busy.


Edit: I did as you suggested and now I can get the old tube to sit all the way into all the sockets. I wasn't comfortable pushing so hard on those new tubes but I was not as bashful using the old one. It's totally fine now. Thanks. By the way do you and other seasoned builders put an old tube in the socket while you solder it? Just wonder best practices. And yes I'll be careful to not use too much solder. Thanks for that tip.

[bmccowan]

I put a bad tube in 9 pin sockets when I solder. I do not bother with octal sockets. But lately I've noticed that QC has slipped on sockets and I've had several that were really tight. If too tight I take a skinny awl and force the pin socket open a bit. BTW "heater wiring not my favorite" likely a universal statement! Some sources say to use 18 awg on heaters - forget that! I might use it for the octal power tubes but 20 or 22 for the 9 pin heaters - cuts down on the cursing.

[dude]

If you don’t have an air compressor like Sluckey suggested, heat the pins with the socket facing up, hopefully the solder in the pins will drip out of the pins enough to get the tubes in. You’re heating the sockets too much and too much solder.
If this works the pins will be tinned inside so solder the wires back upside down or at an angle or the solder will just suck back into the pins, an old tube in the socket before re-soldering should help.

[mresistor]

One trick to clean up your socket wiring -- don't bother with insulated wire in between pins 4 and 5 (on a Novel socket).  Make up a small jumper with 24 or 22AWG bare wire -- saves room and makes it easier to wire in your heaters.

Heck fender just bent the two pins together - no wire needed.     

[sluckey]

By the way do you and other seasoned builders put an old tube in the socket while you solder it?

I don't. But I use quality sockets like Amphenol, Cinch, or Belton. And I have a lot of training and experience with a soldering iron.

[dude]

I never put a tube in the socket, just enough solder to hold the wires.

[JPK]

Slucky's suggestion to use an old tube to loosen the new sockets worked so I'm going to proceed to use them now. I will be very careful with the amount of solder and heat applied in the future. I'm not sure I actually caused this as the sockets may have been tight out of the box, but I will use it as a caution to solder with much care going forward. I may or may not put an old tube in the socket to keep sockets from shifting as the solder cools. I'm now moving onto the turret board assembly.


Thanks for all the feedback.


Note to Slucky: Should I just start a build thread on this project VS posting individual threads for these single issues? I'm sure I'll have more as I go. I could just change the subject on this one and start here too.

[sluckey]

Your tight sockets issue is resolved. I suggest start a new thread for your build and just let this one drift off the page. BTW, my new Belton sockets are always tight. I like that.