Anybody use LED off mains but keep the Fender jewel look?

[Nathan]

I've seen this post here:


https://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=10048.0#google_vignette


So I know it is possible to run a pilot light off the mains, but I have yet to see any models which look sharp like the good old jewel lights.


Could one not modify a traditional holder and have a white LED under it?


Does any of this make a light bulb go off? Surely you guys can shed some light on the subject? I'll see myself out...

[EL34]

Just stick a white LED inside and use the colored jewel
Lamp-Diode-Channel Switching-20

[sluckey]

Been done. Just stick this bulb in a standard fender lamp holder and properly rewire for 120VAC.

[Nathan]

Done and done! I knew there had to be something out there. You guys are the best. Thank you!!

[PRR]

On a Traynor I have put two 5mm LEDs in a common jeweled lampholder powered from a heater supply and resistor. I suspected part of its problems started with a burned-up incandescent which led to nights or months powered-up needlessly. I made those LEDs blaze in bright sun through the window.

[scstill]

Been done. Just stick this bulb in a standard fender lamp holder and properly rewire for 120VAC.

Is there a benefit to run the LED off 120?
Seems that 6v LED might be a better (safer?) way to go.

[WimWalther]

Fwiw, my former employer used to run their LED boards off of 120VAC. They had three LEDs, for power available, standby & full-on.

Each LED  had a 1N4007 & 47v Zener (bands joined) plus an 8K5-10K resistor in series.

You'd probably want to tweak these values with current production LEDs, as the ones made today are like 5X or more efficient as what we used.

[Nathan]

Is there a benefit to run the LED off 120?
Seems that 6v LED might be a better (safer?) way to go.

I'm making a scratch build with unusual layout where my pilot light is away from the heater wires and I don't want a long run to provide the 6.3V. This makes way more sense for my project! 

[scstill]

On a Traynor I have put two 5mm LEDs in a common jeweled lampholder powered from a heater supply and resistor.

isn't it also true that LEDs are happier with a reverse diode in parallel to limit the reverse voltage?

[EL34]

Been done. Just stick this bulb in a standard fender lamp holder and properly rewire for 120VAC.

Is there a benefit to run the LED off 120?
Seems that 6v LED might be a better (safer?) way to go.

LED's are run off the 6.3 v filament supply

[PRR]

Is there a benefit to run the LED off 120?

I don't like any more wall-outlet wiring inside the amp than I need. Dangerous in several ways.

As Wim says you can drop 120 to 2V but it needs a hot wasteful resistor. 6V to 2V is less waste.

> happier with a reverse diode in parallel to limit the reverse voltage?

So do a second LED. They are cheap and you should be buying 10-packs or bigger. On raw AC, two flickers less.

[WimWalther]

As Wim says you can drop 120 to 2V but it needs a hot wasteful resistor. 6V to 2V is less waste.

You're right, it IS wasteful, and both the resistor & Zener can run hot. But modern LEDs are so efficient now that you can get good output with only 3-5mA. This makes life a bit easier for the dropping network, but it's still a kludge imo.

[Latole]

It's an interesting DIY project.

On the other hand, I'd much prefer to keep the all-original vintage amps as much as possible.
I think it's important for the future.

Especially as the bulb lamp 47 have a very, very long life and cost next to nothing.

[sluckey]

Why build a bulb? This 120V LED bulb has everything built in. Just plug it into any BA9S bayonet socket such as the Fender style lamp holder and wire the holder to operate on 120VAC. I would be nervous to put 120V on the open frame Fender style lamp holder because of the way the metal frame sits between the two electrical contacts. I've seen the electrical contacts get rotated and contact the metal frame. But I would not hesitate to use a high quality lamp holder such as the one in the second pic.

I personally would not use a 120V LED bulb. Too many other low voltage options are available. But, the OP asked for a 120V LED solution for his project and this is what I suggested.

[dwinstonwood]

Thanks sluckey.

Will that high-quality lamp holder in your second pic handle 6.3V heater current? I'd much rather use those than the traditional Fender lamp holders. Those things can be a pain to tighten, and I always have to put insulation under them so they don't touch the chassis.

[WimWalther]

On the other hand, I'd much prefer to keep the all-original vintage amps as much as possible.
I think it's important for the future.

I couldn't agree more. I'm not very fond of a lot of "restorations", either.. much more on the side of careful and thoughtful conservation,  changing as little as possible and accepting the fact that it's old and used.

Especially as the bulb lamp 47 have a very, very long life and cost next to nothing.

Place a 20R 1/2W in series to knock down the glare, and they will last essentially forever.

[sluckey]

Will that high-quality lamp holder in your second pic handle 6.3V heater current? I'd much rather use those than the traditional Fender lamp holders. Those things can be a pain to tighten, and I always have to put insulation under them so they don't touch the chassis.

Yes. In fact, the one in the pic has a #47 6v bulb. That particular lamp holder is probably too long to fit a shallow Fender style chassis with a sloped front panel.

Here's another example using that style lamp holder to provide backlight for a radio dial. It's wired for #47 6.3V bulb. These "may" fit the Fender sloped chassis.

On the other hand, I'd much prefer to keep the all-original vintage amps as much as possible.
I think it's important for the future.

I never got the impression the OP was talking about a vintage amp.