What do you all do for custom faceplates?

[Nathan]

I need a faceplate soon and have thought about this for a number of years - what are the current options out there for one-off custom faceplates? Not talking about reproductions of classic amps of course.


Seems like laser engraving would be an option given how it has gained popularity?


Please discuss.

[Auke Jolman]

I order them at Tube-Town Germany. They got a wide range of possibilities. https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/en/faceplates/custom-shop-name-faceplates/

[mresistor]

I haven't used their service (yet)  but Mojotone can make a faceplate.  Here is the info page.


https://www.mojotone.com/custom-faceplates

[Diverted]

Try Sandy at the website below. Get her the dimensions, measurements and design notes, and she will likely have a draft back to you the same day. From there, you go back and forth to settle on exactly what you want, and she ships immediately. I have always been happy with the quality of her products and her service is awesome. Very easy to work with.

www.precisiondesignin.com

[mresistor]

I've used Sandy's services before for some aluminum Logo plates and they are outstanding.,

[johnnyreece]

+1 on Sandy at Precision Design.  However, I've started making my own.  It's kind of a pain, but I bought one of those cheap 3018 CNC routers from Amazon, and have since expanded the machine to 3040.  The bonus is, it's useful for making your own turret boards as well!  I've attached a couple pictures for reference (the faceplate was textured, so it's not as precise as I'd like).  I also did a tutorial on doing your own turret board (I've included that as well).  Whatever you decide, good luck!

[d95err]

I order them at Tube-Town Germany. They got a wide range of possibilities. https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/en/faceplates/custom-shop-name-faceplates/

+1 on Tube-Town!

Reasonable prices for custom facepkates and good service.

[Diverted]

+1 on Sandy at Precision Design.  However, I've started making my own.  It's kind of a pain, but I bought one of those cheap 3018 CNC routers from Amazon, and have since expanded the machine to 3040.  The bonus is, it's useful for making your own turret boards as well!  I've attached a couple pictures for reference (the faceplate was textured, so it's not as precise as I'd like).  I also did a tutorial on doing your own turret board (I've included that as well).  Whatever you decide, good luck!

JOhnny,

Super intrigued about this as I probably order two faceplates a month from Sandy. The costs add up.
One question: Can you etch onto other materials besides the PVC she has? I would love to be able to etch lettering onto brass and aluminum plate.

Thanks!

[johnnyreece]

I went cheap with my router, so it's not rated for metals, however, I'd like to think that a brass plate could be etched, if you weren't going deep.  I may experiment with it one of these days.  My next project is going to be a plexi-style.  I've got some clear plexi, and I'm going to paint it gold on the reverse side.  I've got my artwork backwards so that I can etch the gold, then spray it black, so that I get black letters on a gold background. 

[Greenwichpaul]

I have used a company called Signomatic several times. THey sell across europe (not sure about US). You design the faceplate (we used InDesign) and output as a PDF. THey have various options: one is 'printed' aluminium, the other is engraved plastic. Aluminium is around £26 for something 14 inches by 3 inches; plastic is less. The aluminium looks good but is really a kind of printed layer on top of the aluminium. It looks good but is not quite as crisp as a screenprint.

The plastic is a fair bit cheaper (and thicker); in some ways it looks better as it's crisper. The limitation is these panels are max 295mm width. It looks like it's around £15 now for a 295 x 40mm panel.

The metal panel shown is for a FET reverb, using the metal version. The deluxe Micro is the plastic version

[Beezerboy]

I make my own silk screens and paint them. don't cost much but it takes a lot of time

right now I am fooling with a Cricut brand cutter machine hoping to cut stencils for my latest

[wsscott]

GreenwichPaul-I really like the faceplate on the Surfyback head unit.  I built one that's similar based on a ReVibe idea and I think I'm using the same headunit chassis you have.

Can you give me some details on that faceplate, ie. the material, etc.  I'm in the US, so I guess your supplier won't work for me.

Thanks.

[Greenwichpaul]

GreenwichPaul-I really like the faceplate on the Surfyback head unit.  I built one that's similar based on a ReVibe idea and I think I'm using the same headunit chassis you have.

Can you give me some details on that faceplate, ie. the material, etc.  I'm in the US, so I guess your supplier won't work for me.

Thanks.

Hi, afaik signomatic are based somewhere like Sweden, so it takes 5 days to arrive, no customs charges and I see there's a signomatic.com so it might be a similar service to the US.
The panel is aluminium. It's printed on with a kind of thin UV plastic which is sandwiched on. It looks just a bit more translucent with softer edges than a true painted/screenprinted panel, and is less shiny; it is acceptably crisp, though, even under a magnifying glass. Overall it does look like a metal panel and I know some kit makers use something very similar (maybe Modulus in the UK).

I've bought from them a couple of times now and they deliver very quickly. So I would say they give a very acceptable product for the price. I suspect there are other companies use the same machinery to produce an identical product - but I found about signomatic from another amp builder on tdrpi and know they work well and the price is reasonable.

Of course, designing the thing might be a faff. Luckily my wife is a graphic designer so we get the job done efficiently with only 30 minutes etc of shouting per job, especially now we have files with volume digits etc etc. I tend to drill the chassis, then scan it, so we know the dimensions are spot-on.

Yes, the build is a Revibe wannabe. It was the first cabinet I built with the Leigh box jig, although the tolex job is dodgy. It sounds good and there are no earthing problems (tho I still want to build a 6g15 of course).

Attached is a close-up of the plastic version which gives a better idea of how they look (this was a spare panel as I built the Deluxe Micro straight but had planned for a version with the 1 tube reverb and the Sluckey trem.)

[wsscott]

Thanks so much for the reply and info.  I'm not a graphics designer, and can't even draw a straight line, so that's a problem for me from a design standpoint.  But it's good to know there's a good source out there.

My "ReVibe" was actually a Vibrato/Reverb that I built, with Stuckey's help, based on a Magnatone M10A amp.  I love the true vibrato of the Magnatone that varistors give, that I had to do that.  So he suggested I use this amp, and basically ended it before the Output Tubes and OT, etc.  I actually took the schematic with a few of his mods, and then I designed the layout (first time I've ever done that).  Was a challenge, but fun for an OAP--as you Brits might say!  So its got the Mag's preamp, vibrato and reverb circuit in it, and I was able to squeeze it in a chassis that fits that cabinet.  Very pleased with it.

[Greenwichpaul]

Thanks so much for the reply and info.  I'm not a graphics designer, and can't even draw a straight line, so that's a problem for me from a design standpoint.  But it's good to know there's a good source out there.

I looked for your original thread but couldn't find. So you have a cool Revibe type unit - is that what you need a control panel for? I just checked and I'm certain Signomatic supply to the US. Post a photo of the unit's control panel - maybe we can help you out. Could be easy, could be hard (aligning the holes will be the main issue).

[wsscott]

I was thinking about doing one for the ReVibe mod and another one for the Magnatone Twilighter Mod I build.  See photos.

[Ronquest]

I make mine.  Laser on aluminum.  Before the rear panel was finished, never did get a picture.

[AHeck]

I just design the faceplate on Publisher and have a local sign printing company do a print on aluminum and cut it to size for me.  Once I get it, I give a couple coats of lacquer, install it on the chassis and drill it out.  It usually costs about $20-25.   

[WimWalther]

There's an old system for producing custom engraved plaques and tags which is based on a layered plastic sheet. The top layer can be any color, usually black, red, green or blue. The layer beneath is typically white.

When the surface is cut by an engraving tool, the text / design is rendered in the contrasting color of the second layer. There was a time when you could have these made at kiosks in department stores like Sears or Wards, in the US.

Complete one-piece custom panels could be engraved on larger sheets, or panels could be built up using a number of individual tags marked for Vol, Tone, etc.

The system must still be in use today, probably updated with CNC engraving, though I'm not sure where to find it at retail.

[WimWalther]

I just design the faceplate on Publisher and have a local sign printing company do a print on aluminum and cut it to size for me.  Once I get it, I give a couple coats of lacquer, install it on the chassis and drill it out.  It usually costs about $20-25.

Would you mind posting some pics of a finished panel? And do you actually use a clear lacquer, as opposed to a more modern poly clear coat?

[TIMBO]

I just design the faceplate on Publisher and have a local sign printing company do a print on aluminum and cut it to size for me.  Once I get it, I give a couple coats of lacquer, install it on the chassis and drill it out.  It usually costs about $20-25.

I'm with Aheck I draw out a plate layout with dimensions for the length and width, then measurements for the spacings of pots jacks etc. and send it to the local trophy shop.
They can laser aluminium or laminated plastic ( I generally get mat black face with white backing) multiple coloured brushed aluminium with black plastic backing.
If you can provide them with the layout with measurement it will halve the cost of the plate
Average cost for mine work out to be around $45

[PRR]

....custom engraved plaques and tags which is based on a layered plastic sheet. The top layer can be any color, usually black, red, green or blue. ... ... I'm not sure where to find it at retail.

"sign shop near here" (If that comes out in California, put your town in the query-- Google can be stupid.)

"Your local complete branding solution. Banners, site signs, business cards, t-shirts, commercial signage and more!" The websites like to feature full-wrap worktrucks and snazzy roadside signs, but bowling/fishing trophies are still part of the racket, so nearly all these guys have clad sheets, a cutter, and graphic tools/software.

[dwinstonwood]

I lay out my face plates in Adobe Illustrator. We have a laser cutter/engraver in the maker space where I work.

Here's one I just drew up for a future project.
The actual working file will not have the colors, just vector lines and rasterized text for cutting and engraving, respectively.
It will be a single input 6G6-B designed to fit in my 6G3 12" combo cabinet.

[dogburn]

I lay out my face plates in Adobe Illustrator. We have a laser cutter/engraver in the maker space where I work.

Would you be willing to share your Illustrator files? I have access to a laser cutter in a maker space as well, but haven't yet dived into working up a vector file. I've got a 6G2-based project that I need to make a face plate and rear plate for.

[dwinstonwood]

Would you be willing to share your Illustrator files? I have access to a laser cutter in a maker space as well, but haven't yet dived into working up a vector file. I've got a 6G2-based project that I need to make a face plate and rear plate for.

Hey dogburn, if you can give me the measurements and dimensions of the 6G2 plates I could do it. I don't have dimensional drawings of that amp chassis.
David

[WimWalther]

....custom engraved plaques and tags which is based on a layered plastic sheet. The top layer can be any color, usually black, red, green or blue. ... ... I'm not sure where to find it at retail.

"sign shop near here" (If that comes out in California, put your town in the query-- Google can be stupid.)

"Your local complete branding solution. Banners, site signs, business cards, t-shirts, commercial signage and more!" The websites like to feature full-wrap worktrucks and snazzy roadside signs, but bowling/fishing trophies are still part of the racket, so nearly all these guys have clad sheets, a cutter, and graphic tools/software.

"Clad sheets", is this the umbrella term for engravable sheets? Searching on that phrase found this site: https://www.jpplus.com/engraving/sheet/rotary/plastic

This just may be the material I was discussing in my last post. The vendor refers to it simply as "engraving plastic".

I really like the look of panels that use this stuff to mark controls & switches, though custom artwork + laser engraving is hard to argue against, if you happen to have access to the equipment and the skills to use it. As of now, I have neither.

[dwinstonwood]

Here's where I've been buying my laserable acrylic. Lots of colors to choose from:
https://www.inventables.com/search?type=product&q=laserable&options%5Bprefix%5D=last

[PRR]

I dunno what they call the stuff. If you can get out, you probably have places like Signarama, FastSigns, Budget Sign Shop, Cedar Printing, Signsational Graphics,.... These guys do all the signs in town except the MegaStore and the Sharpie. Probably many Real Estate signs, though a paper-printer may do that too.

Tell them what you want, they have samples, raw and engraved/lasered, and catalogs, wood, plastic, metal, 13 thicknesses, 43 colors.....

[dogburn]

dwinstonwood - I built my 6G2 in a Fender Sidekick Reverb 35 chassis and cabinet-I'd need to do a good bit of measuring for all the holes and controls. But I wasn't thinking you would do it for me, more that if you could share one of your files, I could use that as a starting point. I'm good at Illustrator, etc., but if someone's already set up the hole sizes, numbering for volume, tone controls, etc., it's much easier for me to rearrage, copy and paste and such.

[Brownie]

That layered engraving plastic similar to a pickguard is what my Electrician buddies at the plant used to call "lamichoid".

[dwinstonwood]

dwinstonwood - I built my 6G2 in a Fender Sidekick Reverb 35 chassis and cabinet-I'd need to do a good bit of measuring for all the holes and controls. But I wasn't thinking you would do it for me, more that if you could share one of your files, I could use that as a starting point. I'm good at Illustrator, etc., but if someone's already set up the hole sizes, numbering for volume, tone controls, etc., it's much easier for me to rearrage, copy and paste and such.

I will put together a generic face plate with the text, numbers and holes for you. You will then just need to position everything to suit your chassis.
But, I won't get to it until the weekend.

David

[dogburn]

I will put together a generic face plate with the text, numbers and holes for you. You will then just need to position everything to suit your chassis.
But, I won't get to it until the weekend.

David

That would be awesome - thanks!

[pullshocks]

I don't have Illustrator, Inkscape, or Visio,  but Publisher is included in my Microsoft Office subscription.  I was able to do basic panel layouts in Publisher.

[pullshocks]

For that panel, I converted the Publisher file to PDF, took it to Kinkos/FedexOffice and had it printed on photo paper.  I glued it to the chassis, sprayed some clear coat on it.  The main surface stood up to home use for a long time, but the edges are easily damaged when the chassis is outside the cab, or when components are removed.


Low cost, and looks decent, but for a build you know you are going to keep, an engraved panel would be a lot more professional looking and durable.

[pullshocks]

One more option, for a build that may or may not be a keeper.


I bought a pack of 8/12 x 11 Avery self adhesive label stock and printed the graphics on my home printer, in 2 pieces (i.e. there is a center seam).

[dwinstonwood]

That would be awesome - thanks!

PM sent.

[Guy77]

I make mine.  Laser on aluminum.  Before the rear panel was finished, never did get a picture.

Hi. Those plates came out looking beautiful!
What type of Laser are you using and where do you buy your black aluminum.
I am currently using Gravoply sheets and a local Maker Place uses a 50 watt CO2 laser to engrave off the first layer of plastic to reveal the 2nd layer which is a different color.
You can see mine here at www.ampguy.ca

Cheers
Guy

[Ronquest]

Hi. Those plates came out looking beautiful!
What type of Laser are you using and where do you buy your black aluminum.
I am currently using Gravoply sheets and a local Maker Place uses a 50 watt CO2 laser to engrave off the first layer of plastic to reveal the 2nd layer which is a different color.
You can see mine here at www.ampguy.ca
Cheers
Guy

Thank you, those are some of the first plates when I got the laser.
Nice looking amps you have there. 
I have a Ortur Laser Master 3, 10 watt with the blue light laser.  I wouldn't mind having a CO2 laser, but not busy enough to justify it.  I also have a Sienci Longmill router for aluminum chassis, cabinet work, and some sign work I do.  With the laser, just make sure it can do the materials you want, as they can't do all materials or colors.  And proper ventilation is a must!!!    The aluminum I've been using is from JPplus.com   The laser plastic is not the best way to go for face plates in my opinion, at least with my laser.

[Guy77]

Hi. Those plates came out looking beautiful!
What type of Laser are you using and where do you buy your black aluminum.
I am currently using Gravoply sheets and a local Maker Place uses a 50 watt CO2 laser to engrave off the first layer of plastic to reveal the 2nd layer which is a different color.
You can see mine here at www.ampguy.ca
Cheers
Guy

Thank you, those are some of the first plates when I got the laser.
Nice looking amps you have there. 
I have a Ortur Laser Master 3, 10 watt with the blue light laser.  I wouldn't mind having a CO2 laser, but not busy enough to justify it.  I also have a Sienci Longmill router for aluminum chassis, cabinet work, and some sign work I do.  With the laser, just make sure it can do the materials you want, as they can't do all materials or colors.  And proper ventilation is a must!!!    The aluminum I've been using is from JPplus.com   The laser plastic is not the best way to go for face plates in my opinion, at least with my laser.

That's great to know that the Ortur 10 watt can etch aluminum. I was always unclear on what materials work with those lasers but they did a great job on your aluminum plates.

I have started switching to powder coated and screen printed chassis but its good to know there are alternatives.

Cheers
Guy

[Jalmeida]

Laser works pretty well. My current build I laser engraved red anodized aluminum. I have toyed with stainless with good results too. You can engrave painted metal also. I have a friend with a nicer engraver that engraves exotic hardwoods for bezels and they turn out quite nice.

[Ronquest]

That's great to know that the Ortur 10 watt can etch aluminum. I was always unclear on what materials work with those lasers but they did a great job on your aluminum plates.

I have started switching to powder coated and screen printed chassis but its good to know there are alternatives.

Cheers
Guy

The blue laser can only remove the black paint or anodizing to show the aluminum underneath.  You need a different laser for etching metals and this may not give your the contrast you want without color filling.  Mine can cut and etch some colors of plexiglass and cuts and etches wood fine.  Really do your research so your not spending money on something that wont do what you need.  Also some materials give off deadly and or corrosive fumes, so get educated first.  Some colors and materials the lasers wont even react.   Best cheap laser setup would have both red and blue lasers and you'd be into a setup for under $1000 with both lasers.  Your still not going to cut metal or aluminum with these.

[tdvt]

This isn't all that old to dredge back up & I thought I would share, as I finally got around to trying out a faceplate method I have been thinking about for quite a while.

I did the design in Inkscape & had the file printed at the local maker's space onto a commercial adhesive vinyl.

I then applied a layer of clear automotive chip-guard material (3M) over the printed vinyl & stuck the vinyl onto a fitted piece of .060 bakelite (in-stock from making Tele pickguards) as a separate faceplate; a la Fender.

I printed out 3 projects worth on the one piece for $16. Automotive chip-guard was about $20 (6 X 72) & should do 8-10 faceplates. I will leave out the bakelite & bond directly to the chassis on the next one (tweed-style chassis).

I had initially called a friend who did racecar graphics to try this some time ago, but he was changing jobs & wasn't really that nearby, so it all got punted.

The stuff I got from the maker's space is not automotive-grade & the ink can scratch fairly easily, so the clear top layer is really a necessity. But having the automotive-grade stuff as the wearing surface should keep things durable.