I have worked on 2 valve kings. 1 50 watt, and 1 100 watt. When I got the 100 watt, it had no heaters at all.
After I opened it up, I saw that one of the on board fuses had blown. Seeing that it has 3 on board fuses, I chose to purchase plastic fuse holders, to make those easy to change in the future. I got that part from ebay, easy to find on there, they use physically smaller fuses, but the pins on the fuse holders match the spacing on the board where the stock fuses are. I saw burning near the rectifier diodes and also noticed they had used the smallest little diodes for the 3 different rectifiers. I got some beefier diodes, and went ahead and replaced them all.
Doing that got the amp running, but there was crackling, and no reverb.
I measured bad readings at the 4558 op amp reverb driver chip, so I pulled that, and installed an 8 pin socket there, and new chip into that socket.
As for the crackling, I replaced the preamp tube anode resistors.
I believe I changed out all of the power electrolytic capacitors, and 1 or 2 power resistors that showed heat issues. I remember the long ceramic one, because I had to order it and it's a weird value.
Those component changes fixed the 100 watt amp.
The 50 watt that I worked on only had crackling problems. I replaced the preamp tube anode resistors and that fixed that. I will say, on the 50 watt, I went ahead and changed the power electrolytic caps, added beefier diodes, added fuse holders, and gave it a bias pot for the fixed bias output. I still have the 50 watt, and I really like that amp.