Soldering Irons - Recommendations?

[Khristophorous]

Can you guys recommend a good one for around $50?  It seems like 20 years ago I could buy whatever pencil they had in Wal Mart's automotive section and it would do even tight PCB work just fine. Now those type of irons can't even tin stranded wire some times. I came across a video that didn't appear to have a stake in it's recommendations and among those was a Yihua 937D+. The 939D is on Amazon for right at $50. It was described as a Hakko clone.

[mountainhick]

I did buy a yihua/WEP with an air heater. I do NOT recommend it!

https://www.amazon.com/WEP-882D-Soldering-Tweezers-Desoldering/dp/B0BX5KXBPD/ref=sr_1_18?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.-WK4z6Wb4nHneeX1jXP6mspbJ-WbkdbFU-MFdhJ_dcWd9EPvsVMAnEllFHfG82beBcFYcG7HXUJKo0qsFGl8ke9oPXyZNcZKJbFTBNDd57CnnpBXKlcZhqHU_dPIFuPq__j9PyNlDpNWkKagZb1hc7P40Etat9E6Jb7aGUySd7OaIyhzYRi22zXox7cCSJRcgrR11x4-lFocoHTKqU-Lqj_VTv4aYFaUcCxvTUORvP7sblLqmcyfZ-Fb_nBZcBPjZ2YpH9P_9Aa5wC4CZnnlMocFgdLWEFOrcpBIlfM9Iyo.BNPI0D4AU9dZ3CMi-U1_AjSgD1pN86Vp8oaEurNVSmk&dib_tag=se&keywords=937d+soldering+station&qid=1763566511&sr=8-18

The soldering iron works well, but the unit's design overall is terrible due to the small light weight base not staying put on the bench. The slightest tug on the soldering iron of air heater wires, and it's gone somewhere you don't want. It was constantly falling off the bench, and the air heater's automatic turning on is a fire hazard. If it tips out of its cradle slightly it turns on when you don't want it to. It should be controlled by a switch in the handle.

I guess I could have taped it to a brick to keep it put on the bench. I did like the air heater for shrink wrap.

I replaced it with a Hakko for about $100, and glad I did. Completely worth the extra cost.

[acheld]

Genuine Hakko products are worth the extra expense if you're going to use it regularly -- very reliable and parts are available if needed.

Check out the 600/601 iron.  IIRC, they do have temperature control which I consider mandatory.

The 888 station is great, as is the 971.  The 888 is not too expensive, and is very comfortable to use.

[BrianS]

Buy once, cry once.

[kagliostro]

My 2c

NEVER uses solder paste to clean the tip; it would quickly damage it

Use stainless steel wool instead

Franco

[mwelch55]

My Weller WES51 Soldering Station died during my last project.  After looking at the prices of new a Weller, I decided to get this soldering station:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RVMZNYR?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

The price now is $53.  I was impressed with it.  It heats up way faster than my Weller.  I plan on fixing my Weller station and selling it.

[acheld]

The Yihua (I want to say YeeHaw!, but won't) models are basically Hakko ripoffs.   I'm sure they work fine, and for occasional use will be great.   

Two things about Hakko products, and no I am not paid by them:  very robust construction, and if one breaks you can get parts easily.

I'm not totally against less expensive Chinese products, they have their place.  Soldering irons are very basic for what  we do, and should be reliable, comfortable, and stay around for a long time.  That's what you pay for.

[shooter]

and stay around for a long time.  That's what you pay for.

yep!


got 2 pencils, both Weller, one's 35 yrs old, the other 20  35W n 25W


solder is almost as important, the industry standard in my book is 63/37,  a good 60/40 works just fine for guitar type stuff.
not a fan of the save-the-planet stuff, used it once, put it in the landfill


I have 150 more trees now then 35 years ago, so i'm doing my part 

[danhei]

I’ve had a Hakko soldering station for more than ten years and really like it, though it’s outside your budget.

[Khristophorous]

The price now is $53.  I was impressed with it.  It heats up way faster than my Weller.  I plan on fixing my Weller station and selling it.

That is the one I had in mind. It is good to see an endorsement from someone doing the same work I would be buying it for.

[Khristophorous]

got 2 pencils, both Weller, one's 35 yrs old, the other 20  35W n 25W

That is what I am talking about. The plain jane no name pencils at Wal Mart or Radio Shack used to be able to handle even delicate PCB work. I could remove/replace even 8 to 16 or pinned SMD Ic's with one. Now they can't even tin wire - useless.

[shampeon]

The TS-100/TS-101/Pinecil soldering irons are inexpensive and work well—as long as you use an adequate power supply. I have a 100 with a good DC power supply and it does everything from delicate pcb work to soldering battery terminals.

[mrjomo]

Shooter said:

not a fan of the save-the-planet stuff, used it once, put it in the landfill

I say: Hell yeah!! I used to solder patch bays for 12 hrs at a stretch and was pretty good AND fast. Now after 25 years away from that, I can’t solder KaKa. i’ve wondered if the Eco-solder is to blame… It can’t be ME!!

[Khristophorous]

Use stainless steel wool instead

Franco

So is any steel wool ok or must it be stainless steel? Ive always read brass wool. Ive used plain steel wool, quite a bit actually. While that worked for years that was also before I kept running into these pencil irons that are no good right out of the box, before the dark times, before the Empire. So I have tried to rethink my entire method.

[acheld]

So is any steel wool ok or must it be stainless steel?

I use brass wool exclusively.  I have tried steel wool, but ended up getting bits of it on the tip. 

Brass wool lasts a long time, not expensive.

But whatever works for you is fine.   

[Khristophorous]

You are right, it isn't expensive.Right now I have a sponge and a bit of steel wool - the kind that is coils of flat ribbon just like the good brass stuff, not the fine fibrous steel wool. My budget for the month is already blown but I hope to buy a whole new soldering set up soon. I was able to get some 60/40 Sn/Pb and some of that stuff made just for tinning a tip. I have one more new tip on this POS iron and one tiny little job to do so I hope it will get me through - sanity intact. I guess this is all part of the race to the bottom. In like 2006 I could get whatever $5 iron was in WalMart's automotive isle and manage even SMD's with it, now a similar iron won't even tin wire. It is mind boggling. I read it is the combination of a cheap iron AND lead free solder, like it can be one or the other but not both. Twenty years ago lead free solder was not as ubiquitous as it is now so I'm hoping this 40% Pb and a brand new tip will allow me to manage the little bit I have to do - until 1st of January or 1st of February. I appreciate everyone's input.