[EDITED THE Vac MEASUREMENTS)
Hey everyone,
I'm kind of going crazy over here on this '80 Fender Twin reverb (the one with the push-pull master). Beware it's a long read!
Came in for a full checkup, some of the mallory caps in the doghouse where either bulgy or open, I changed them all.
The 25uF bypass caps got the same treatment.
The 250pF at the tone stack of both channels were leaky and changed for 1kV ceramic caps. The owner wanted to go for a full retubing so that was done as well.
I'm having issues because the "Vibrato" channel starts crunching at 3 (out of 10 on the volume pot) and it's not a pretty distortion, push-pull thingy is disengaged.
The normal channel stays mostly clean up to 10 (out of 10). Tonestack on both channels at 5.5 out of 10.
BEFORE THE 3.3M/10pF mixer:
When I scope after the .022uF coupling cab on V2B plate of the VIB channel, I’m getting more or less the same signal as the NORM channel when I scope the .047uF coupling cap at the plate of V1B. Up to that point both circuits are the same (except for that last coupling cap). It is clean all the way to 10 on the volume, tonestack at 5.5/10. Getting around 130Vac Peak to peak
AFTER THE 3.3M/10pF mixer:
However, if I scope directly after the 3.3M/10pF mixer on the VIB channel (grid of V4B), I’m seeing a much much smaller signal, around 2Vac and it’s clipped pretty hard on the positive side. To go back to an unclipped signal at the grid of V4B, I need to turn the VOL pot back down to 4/10.
I’m thinking of grid current here, but the signal coming in the grid of V4B is so small (6Vac peak to peak) that I can’t see how grid current would develop there.
Here are the voltages (no signal):
V4B(Vk): 1.95Vdc
V4B(Vp): 252Vdc
V4B(Vg1): 0.13Vdc
What I did, from targeted and thought-out troubleshooting to desperate shotguning when madness kicks in in the workshop:
- tested the push-pull switch on the master volume pot, could be grimy and always on: NOPE
- replaced the tube: NOPE
- clean up the wax on that part of the board, I was getting stray voltages that could definitely mess up with the bias of V4.
- bypass the Reverb circuit entirely (go straight from the coupling cap of V2B plate to the 3.3M/10pF to the grid of V4B, with flying leads, not soldered to the board)
I got a big old signal coming into the grid of V4B clipping the heck out of the signal coming out of the V4B’s plate, made the problem worse.
- replaced the cathode resistor and bypass cap: NOPE
- replaced the tube socket: NOPE
- replaced the plate resistor: NOPE
It’s kicking my butt. Even with the funky push-pull thingy that makes it seem like they tried to push more crunch out a Twin reverb, I have a hard time believing the thing distorts at 4/10 on the neck pickup of a Stratocaster when the switch is disengaged.
The circuit is also identical to a regular master volume SF Twin Reverb. but the push-pull does do something to the circuit even disengaged.
Any help on what's going on on the grid of V4B or people having experience with those particular Twin Reverb?
I know them to be extremely clean, heck that's the reason why people love/hate them (besides the weight), never heard of a model that gets fuzzy at 6/10 on the dial...
Thanks a lot folks!