> be sure that I understand this.
"Keep one foot on the ladder at ALL times."
> The 250V limit of the scope is...
Welcome Aurora.
Yes, there are several limits. The input sensitivity switch can spark-over; if you set it wrong, 250V at first grid/gate may blow something up. The 10:1 probe "seems like" that should multiply to 2,500V at the probe, but the parts inside the probe are small, typically 500V rating. Which might be 550V max at probe tip. Dunno what the 10001 does to claim 650V but I can believe it.
HowEVER, _my_ 10X probe is melted and bodged from years of sticking it in tube amps. I always found something which not only exceeded nominal rating, but drew arcs or exploded the R and C inside.
Remember that most small parts have low voltage ratings. Half-Watt resistors often have 350V ratings. We know that they can stand more; the rating is about long term stability. For a quick-check divider, I'm not worried you may put 500V on that resistor.
> that little circuit above is of no use at 50 hz..
at 50 hz the reactance of a .01 uF is over 300k, giving you over 20 % error..
Hmmmmm.... you are correct, it IS inaccurate.
I say it is accurate-enough for the stated purpose of "I.. want to check the ripple on the B+ rail". So you read "2V" and it is really 2.4V. But when we check ripple, mostly we want to know "very low? or high enough to hurt?" If it is a problem, we'd typically want to fix/change something to reduce ripple to 1/3rd or 1/10th, not a little 20% change. If we hear the 2V or 2.4V ripple, we want to make it 0.5V and see if it goes away.
i.e.: often a +/-20% reading is good enough to know if something wants fixing or not.
This isn't Government Calibration.
Also: "ripple" should be 100/120Hz and higher. The error is 12% or 1dB at 120Hz, less further up. 1dB differences in audio are hardly worth noting. I grant that, if he has a supply rail issue so bad he resorts to a 'scope, he may have 50/60hz trouble too. But hum is as likely to be ground-borne.
> "original" probes for quality brand scopes usually autoswitch the range marker...
I've been using non-HP scopes for well over 30 years and just last year got one which would "auto-switch". It was not a common thing in the 1960s. In shops which need good 'scopes to turn a buck, auto makes a ton of sense; but we mere audio techs don't need fancy frills and often use lesser 'scopes. Two of mine are pre-WWII. My Heath and Leader are fine low-price 'scopes and certainly not auto-switch. I got the Velleman Pocket Scope which is too crude for frills. And I finally got a Tek but not the original probes.
Has anybody spotted the reason I re-posted with the 1Meg resistor on the "hot" side of the cap? This relates to the reason I picked a "too small, inaccurate" 0.01u cap.