Lego's spin on Sluckey's spin of Hoffmans Revibe

[lego4040]

That was my concern, I'm gonna just by a head for the Vox. Funds were low and needed to wait. Would any metal work in that case? I have acess to thin sheet aluminum and tin. How annoy Heavy duty aluminum foil spray tacked down in cab

[sluckey]

I just use 3" wide aluminum duct tape as used in the HVAC industry. Just lay it down in the cab where the open side of the chassis will contact it. For a 6.5" wide chassis you would need to lay down 3 overlapping strips. Much tougher than kitchen foil. Get it at Lowes or any other big box hardware store.

[lego4040]

I am a licensed refrigeration operating engineer here in NYC, I have that tape in my shop. Thanks for that tip

[lego4040]

New chassis & knobs on the way for the Revibe

[lego4040]

Sluckey what size chassis is it your using on your build? I got my new chassis made triple sure I had tubes on the right side. Made my measurements and my worn out holesaw ate my chassis on first drop. No biggy since the big caps are going in there, everything else went smooth. Then when I went to put my tank on it wouldn't fit, I realized that I moved the tubes down a little away from the back edge and that screwed me up. I nailed the AC-15 with no problems and I screwed this chassis up TWICE. I am livid beyond words and glad I have a few days away from this. Have a great holiday weekend

[sluckey]

I stated my chassis size early in this thread and also in the first paragraph on the revive page. It's also clearly stated in big fonts on the chassis page of the pdf.

Take a look at reply #15.

[lego4040]

  I know you did Sluckey I wasn't picking on you or trying to be sarcastic. That's the bad part of texting you can't see or hear me laughing at myself, even my boss said you nailed the amp that took forever to build and you messed a simple chassis up twice. Sorry if it sounded like I was angry, I was only frustrated w myself and Your work is awesome and admirable. I hope everyone has a great weekend
I went ahead and ordered, yes, another chassis, this time 8" wide to give myself breathing room.

[sluckey]

You can easily salvage this chassis **IF** you have not drilled holes in the front and back yet. The reverb tank and board will hide most of the ill-drilled holes. Just mount the reverb unit over the tube holes first. 

Then layout the drill locations for tubes and caps and OT on the new rear side of chassis Note that the centerline is only 1.125" from rear edge of chassis! This layout is a tight fit in a 6.5" wide chassis.

Finally mount the board.

Some holes will have to be drilled so that screws will be located under the tank. That's OK. The tank will be sitting higher than the top of the chassis because of the rubber grommets. Notice how I mounted my tank? I used long 10-32 screws thru the chassis. Then I secured ONLY the screws with nuts. Now just drop the tank down on the firmly attached screws and use four nylon insert lock nuts to secure the tank, just snug the lock nuts enough to hold the tank. There should be about 1/4" clearance between the tank and the chassis.

[lego4040]

I thought about that and started to mock that up but being a stickler I couldn't live with that. Even being in a head cabinet I would know about it being banged up. I can be the poster boy for not being patient and dumb mistakes. I'll save them as reminders and mock up boxes, I have one more amp I want to build. I'd like to build the Princeton Reverb

[Willabe]

I use the 1st chassis I drilled/cut and messed up for testing new/different types of drill bits/cutters.



                      Brad     

[lego4040]

Hi guys, haven't been able to work on reverb at all lately due to work schedule but I did get the new chassis in. I'll tape it up and measure it out checking it at least a dozen times before I start drilling it. I'll be up in the northwestern boonies of Maine next week for vacation and keeping my eyes out for a project.

[sluckey]

Here's a pic of my layout. It shows top view. The first thing I did was to place the edge of the reverb tank flush with the front edge of the chassis and centered lengthwise. In my case that gave 1/8" clearance on each end. Mark and drill the 4 mounting holes.

The I marked a centerline all the way across the back side of the chassis. This centerline is 1.125" from the back edge of the chassis. All tube sockets and cap cans are centered and properly spaced on this centerline. Drill or punch these holes to size. Then center the OT between tube sockets. Mount the choke as close to the back edge as you can.

Once you have the tank and tube sockets drilled, everything else will just fall into place. Measure twice, cut once!

[lego4040]

  that is perfect. Thanks for helping a novice out

[lego4040]

Ok I got it right this time



sanded and clear coated the chassis. I thought about bringing everything with me to the cabin to wire it up but I'd rather be fishing   thanks again Sluckey for those measurements. I didn't drill for pots cause I don't have face plate yet.

[sluckey]

That looks good!

I didn't drill for pots cause I don't have face plate yet.

About the plate. I still have the file we talked about earlier. Take a look at this and tell me what I need to change.

1. What is the size of your chassis?
2. Do you want to use standard size cream chicken head knobs? (Need to adjust spacing between knobs if so.)
3. Can I put the input jack 1.5" from the right side of the chassis as shown? If need to move, how much?
4. Are the colors OK? Need to change anything?
5. Should I change any of the wording? (I'm not crazy about "INDICATOR" for the LED. Got something better?)
6. Do you have any questions or suggestions I haven't thought of?

Let me know about these questions and I'll modify the plate drawing accordingly. I'll furnish a 100% scale pdf file that can be used to print a plate. Wonder if Ed needs a revibe? I'll bet if he could hear the revibe thru his AC15 he would be sold. I've had my revibe connected to my AC15 for a couple weeks now and play it every day. I no longer use the Vibrato channel on the AC15. Heck, I could have just stayed with my Hammond conversion AC15 lite. 

[lego4040]

My chassis is the 17.5 x 6.5 x 2.5, same as the AC 15. Colors are perfect, you can keep spacing as is too. I bought the knobs already and they are the same as the ones I used on the Vox( small Davies) the indicator light is just for show, since on/off bezel is on the back. You could leave it blank with no name. Jack spot is perfect as well. Of coarse tonight I walk in the door and start to get ready for vacation I get a phone call that my father was T boned while making a turn at a light, the other person never even stepped on brakes. She flipped his car and sent him skidding down road. He's home now and walked away with only some bruises. 75 and still going strong, witness said it was a right out of a James Bond movie the way his SUV flipped and went thru the air

[sluckey]

Here's the face plate file. Just take it to Kinkos or a sign printing shop.

[lego4040]

Thank you Steve, enjoy the weekend. I'll checkout my options when I get back from Maine

[lego4040]

Back from vacation and need a vacation from that now. Does anyone have a favorite or faceplate company they like? I just might go the Kinkos way for this plate but I would rather not

[lego4040]

Forgot about Kinkos, seems I can get one done for 41bucks. I can get 4 put onto one sheet of 12x18 then I just got to cut it

[sluckey]

Forgot about Kinkos, seems I can get one done for 41bucks. I can get 4 put onto one sheet of 12x18 then I just got to cut it

Tell me more! Is the plate a thin aluminum sheet, similar to what Ed did for us? Is this a local sign shop? Or an internet service? I'm willing to split the cost with you if that's OK.

Would it be better if you had a pdf drawing with only one face plate? That's very easy to do with Visio.

[lego4040]

Its the fedex/kinkos sign and print shop. Not all of them have this but a couple around me do, I dont know thickness but i will call them and find out. I found on AX84 that they liked the way they came out and the thickness was about 1/16th of an inch.

[sluckey]

That sounds good. Keep me posted. PM me if you rather keep your thread uncluttered.

[lego4040]

Got plates in and here she is I did the kinkos way

[lego4040]

update on the face plate    The material is just a little to thick for standard shaft pots. I have a Idea and can live with it since it is mine and not being sold. I will taper holes so i can get nut to grab enough and hold plate down. Man this sucks, I have three other beautiful plates Id like to share with this group too

[Willabe]

update on the face plate    The material is just a little to thick for standard shaft pots.

I've had the same problem with face plates I've had made when using alu. chassis.             

I found out the hard way that the only new pots I could find that would work were the Mojo brand metal shaft (which I think are custom ordered from CTS) the ROC pots (which I think are also custom ordered from CTS) and the PEC pots but the PEC pots unless you get the right knobs you have to cut the shafts shorter. Some brands of chicken head knobs will fit all the way down on the PEC pots shaft others will not. Fender barrel type knobs will not sit all the way down on the PEC pots shaft.              

PEC if you go to their web site has different length pot shafts and bushings but for some reason the standard shaft and bushing that they sell and that AES sells are longer then standard CTS pots.   

And for some reason some/many of the CTS and Alpha pots bushings that I've tried are just a little bit too short if you use an alu. chassis with a 1/16" face plate.                (Goldie locks and the 3 bears. 'Ooh this 1's just right.'    )   
 
The alu. chassis are thicker then the steel chassis like the Fender tweed and BF steel chassis and if you use 1/16" face plate material many pots wont fit.

The star washer that comes with the PEC pot is thinner then most standard CTS pot star washers and will sometimes be just enough to sneak in another pot that would otherwise not work but just barely. And I'm not sure I feel comfortable with only a couple of bushing nut threads holding the pot in place, you can't get the whole nut tightened down only ~ 2/3's of it or so.



                           Brad     

[EL34]

I have shaved down the back of thick items like that with my CNC
But you could use a spade bit
It has to be very sharp and true, no wobbling
You have to set it up in a drill press and clamp down the object so nothing can possibly move


You take a 1 inch wide spade bit (or whatever width)
Set a depth stop on the press so it can only go so deep
Use a very slow speed for plastics
Mill out a depression so that the pot can sink deeper


Lots of work, but if you already have the pots and don't want to buy new pots


Use a large gauge buss wire soldered down the back of the pots to keep them from twisting and you can get away with not using locking washers which saves a bit more depth

[Willabe]

Spade bits that I've seen most times have spurs on the outsides to cut a clean circle they will go though the material before you can shave it down.

Fostner bits have spurs also.

An end mill bit is great for a job like this, no spurs with a flat bottom but are pretty pricy.


             Brad     

[EL34]

I have a bunch with no spurs and a flat profile across the cutting edge

Not sure they still sell that type?


I have sharpened them with a dremel and you can get them really sharp

[Willabe]

I have a bunch with no spurs and a flat profile across the cutting edge
Not sure they still sell that type?

They probably do, my dad had that type when I was young.

But the longer the shank on any drill the more possible the run out. 'Shorty' drill bits and short end mills will have less run out for tighter tolerances.


             Brad     

[lego4040]

  I quess thats why they call engineers engineers, ya gotta figure it out. The thickness is .040 on this plate(they came out beautiful) of coarse they messed up specs on spacing at the printing shop and I didnt catch until I got it on cutting table. It was supposed to be 17.5x2.5 with 1.250 cross hairs for the pots, it wasnt. they made it 18.5,not a problem since that was all green on background and I easily fixed that. What sucked was the spacing, One plate was going to Slucky and he couldnt use since his pots were in place. Here is the spacing diference between the revibe plate and the one Ed Chambly made for the Vox AC15

[EL34]

Yeah, it's difficult to get those bits true
I don't use them anymore for things like that since I have a CNC machine



Your plate is too thin anyway
I was thinking it was  .125 inch or something really thick

[Willabe]

I don't use them anymore for things like that since I have a CNC machine

Now that's the ticket right there.


                  Brad   

[lego4040]

If I had a band saw I could fix this real easily

[lego4040]

Question, I am out of 5.1m 1/2 watt resistors   and I need to put one across the 3mra speed pot. Can I get away with a 4.7M 1/4 watt? or should I just order and spend more money on shipping the resistor

[sluckey]

4.7M will work. In fact, you may not even need that resistor across the speed pot. I would start without it and then experiment with different sizes only if you think it needs it.

[lego4040]

  I filleted the thin aluminum of the back of faceplate and then used a table top 3" belt sander to knock it down. I almost got it

[lego4040]

Aside from one more ground hook up I should be able to fire up amp today.Now Ive never used  a seperate head like this. Whats the protocal here? Guitar-Vox AC15-Revibe-Speaker? or Guitar-Revibe-amp- speaker?

[EL34]

Revibe goes in front of the amp like a stomp box


Guitar- revibe - amp

[lego4040]

  A Big Ol Stompbox at that.

[lego4040]

On powering this up, I would do a poor mans variac test first but should I put a speaker load on the output for safe measures

[EL34]

No, a ReVibe puts out instrument level signal, it's an effect, not a power amp

[lego4040]

  It's Alive. I used a reg set of RCA till I can make them tomorrow. The Led is way cool and responds well. I didn't have time to plug it into amp and hear it yet, I had to bail and head home. I'm pissed I can't use plates tho. I have to try some of the smalted wood I have and see if it won't crack on me

[sluckey]

Hey, that looks familiar.   

[lego4040]

The polished aluminum w clear coat looks nice but not as nice as the plate. I two more ideas that might work, one definitely. I will get it on there.

[Ed_Chambley]

Do you have the correct computer file to print the faceplate?  If so, that .04 polystyrene is too thick, as you know.  I don't know what you paid, but most Kinkos outsource this type of job.  If print on plastic is fine with you, call a local sign ship and ask if you can get the faceplate printed on vinyl sticker material.  Pressure sensitive roll vinyl is what it is called.


To get the sticker exactly where you want it, peel the backer off and wet the sticker with water and it will float around on the chassis.  Of course all your knobs and switches need to be out.  When you get it aligned, leave it overnight and it will be stuck permanent the next day.


Then just cut out the holes.  It will be just as durable since you are printing on plastic.  This is providing you have the correct file to give the sign shop.


Basically what I am saying is if plastic is acceptable, anytime you want to make something print it in pressure sensitive vinyl.  Wet, apply and align, wait and done.  Very easy and very thin.  I have covered this with plexiglass to add durability.

[Ed_Chambley]

That looks good!

I didn't drill for pots cause I don't have face plate yet.

About the plate. I still have the file we talked about earlier. Take a look at this and tell me what I need to change.

1. What is the size of your chassis?
2. Do you want to use standard size cream chicken head knobs? (Need to adjust spacing between knobs if so.)
3. Can I put the input jack 1.5" from the right side of the chassis as shown? If need to move, how much?
4. Are the colors OK? Need to change anything?
5. Should I change any of the wording? (I'm not crazy about "INDICATOR" for the LED. Got something better?)
6. Do you have any questions or suggestions I haven't thought of?

Let me know about these questions and I'll modify the plate drawing accordingly. I'll furnish a 100% scale pdf file that can be used to print a plate. Wonder if Ed needs a revibe? I'll bet if he could hear the revibe thru his AC15 he would be sold. I've had my revibe connected to my AC15 for a couple weeks now and play it every day. I no longer use the Vibrato channel on the AC15. Heck, I could have just stayed with my Hammond conversion AC15 lite. 

To answer, I do not need a Rebive, but what does that have to do with anything.  I have a Leslie and an outboard Fender reverb hooked up to my rig which sounds cool.  I am sure the Revibe sounds great and I do want to build one.  My mind is killing me.  It is wanting me to do more than my body will let me.


I have so much gear and still no Strat.


I guess you are really liking the normal channel on the AC15.  I do a lot, but I also have it jumped all the time so I can have the Vibrato (which the revibe cannot do).  Like I have mentioned, I have added reverb to the AC15 and it really doesn't need it.  I still use at least 2 amps when I play.  Even at home.  One wet and one dry.  Can't beat it.  The AC15 with the Celestion Blue is perfect as it is not very loud, but still breaks up very nicely and has a nice large feel.


You still have the Hammond conversion amp don't you?  Wanna sell your AC15?
I have someone wanting one, but he doesn't understand how much work is was to build the thing.  Since you really don't need yours.
Maybe you want to sell it for say $350.


I priced the build like mine with the head cab and 1, 12.  When I figured it up I was really surprised to see the cost.  The amp just like mine would be about $4000 if you were going to make a profit.  I completely understand why the new Handwired Vox amps are built in China.

[lego4040]

problem solved
I made the holes large enough to go over nuts, led sits in hole. Still not perfect but it works for me. The plate green scratches easily tho. I'm gonna do another one carefully and I'm gonna clear coat it first

[lego4040]

So the reverb and tremolo is incredible and this beats and electronic pedal anyday. I do have some hum that has a pulse that follows tremolo pattern and when I throw the range switch off it's louder. My first suspect is the RCA cable I used temporarily, you'll see it comes out to far and actually touches the tube protective cover

not the red jack that's parallel with silver cover but the red one that comes out back, it's a little hard to see. My other suspect is a cheated on the heater wiring, instead of twisting both together I ran one string to each tube pin then wrapped other wire around to other pin on each tube


the purple wire is ran straight from tube to tube, the blue goes around it. Here you see C main going along back with Vibrato wiring

the other mains here go under board to there places and I tied it up as neat as possible

here I put the ground to stand off and I wasn't happy with way it sat but I was in rush to see it work
.
Any suggestions
I redid heater wires this afternoon with new wire, it's special fire rated wire from the elevator conversion going on at work, it's perfect

[EL34]

lego
Your pictures and text are all messed up and on the same lines
I have fixed your post before an now I will show you how to do it

Modify your post
After a line of text, hit return to start a new line


I show you how to fix this problem in the next post after this one

see how the text in your post are displaying next to the pictures?
. This line of text on the same line as your image?


see how this is right?
.
This line of text is not on the same line as your image?