What Items Should Every Shop Have?

[ncusack]

Hey Everyone,

Im doing up a list of parts to try and outfit myself with some repair and design stock. Im curious what parts and values of components you all typically use the most ie, resistors, caps, pots etc...

I haven't been building for two long and when I do Im doing a full bill of materials order for each amp but I'm in the process of gearing up a test bench so I can start fidling with circuit ideas.

Any and all suggestions for the list are welcome.

Cheers,

Neill

[TubeGeek]

I like to keep stock of a couple brands of capacitors like orange drops and mallory 150's (common values)as well as silver mica caps and a selection of filter caps, metal oxide, carbon comp, metal film resistors, power wirewound resistors, selection of pots, fuses, switches etc.

Basically a little of everything that takes to build an amp.  I've been acquiring parts for years and it's an ongoing process to keep stock of everything.  I think my intitial investment was around 3k and i still find i have to place orders once or twice a month because something will come up and it happens to be the one part i don't have in stock.

Test equipment is another story.  The more the better!

[RicharD]

"In the dark, all resistors are 100k."

-Broskie

[alerich]

A fire extinguisher.

[jeff]

Im curious what parts and values of components you all typically use the most ie, resistors, caps, pots etc...

Resistors:
(1/2W)
820
1K5
2K2
10K
68K
82K
100K
220K
470K
1M

(1W)
4K7
10K

Caps:
.02uF/600V

(silver mica)
250pF/600V
500pF/600V

(electrolytic)
.68uF
25uF/25V
20uF/500V

Pots:
25K
250K
1M

[RicharD]

OK, I'll try to give you a serious answer although I've been drinking so I'm either gonna be right on, or way off (no middle ground).

For service work you're gonna want to have a population of most of the common tubes.  Some 12AX7's 6L6's and EL34's etc.  You're gonna want to have a big variety of electrolytic capacitors on hand.  Probably the #1 "electronic" failure is an electrolytic capacitor or a tube.  Mechanical failures are quite prevalent.  I can't seem to keep pots and jacks in stock.  Fuse holders too..... and power cords.  Murphy would insist that whatever you need is what you don't have, therefore avoid stocking the big ticket items.

For design and prototyping....... sheesh...... I have a kazillion parts and a close friend with 1000 kazillion parts and we're always short something.  I'd suggest finding some old little devil drawers and then filling them.  The (I don't know what you call it) wide numbering scheme for resistors is:
1, 1.5, 2.2, 2.7, 3.3, 3.9, 4.7, 5.6, 6.8, 8.2  Start at 100 ohms, start adding zeros on the end.  You can probably stop at 3.3M but keep a handful of 10M too.  1 ohm resistors are great for current measurements.  Coupling caps...  a smattering of puffy farads and .001,  a bunch of .01, .022, .047,  and .1 uF for starters.  That's a no win situation just like power resistors.  I think Dummy Load's philosophy is to buy double of what he needs when he can so that he'll have it on hand next time.

Fortunately we have Doug Hoffman who manages to ship out parts fast as lightning.   

[tubeswell]

for the 'lectrics: a variac, scope, signal jenny, (tracer?), and selection of soldering irons, 2 x good M-meters and numerous wire strippers and cutters, pliers, screwdrivers, a desktop fan, and one or more solid rubber floormat(s)

and for metalwork: a decent brake, guillotine, drill press, punches, welding kit, and other metal-finishing follies (ally anodising bath?, chromium bath?, screen printer?, laser engraver?, spray booth)

and for woodwork: saws (incl decent table saw), drill, planes, sanders, routers

[LooseChange]

The first item to have on your bench (besides the fire extinguisher) is a light bulb limiter.
Build one and learn to use it.

[riffanvil]

i find both resistance and capacitance decade boxes to be invaluable.  also a GOOD quality solder sucker.  the cheap plastic ones can be a PITA.  i also have a pace desoldering station but usually go for the solder sucker because it is simple and right at hand.  also there are small soldering tools that are great for repair and building. they are like insulated picks hooks and slotted end tools designed for manipilating leads for soldering or desoldering and don't present a big heat sink (better than needle nose--smaller and like a pencil in shape with different ends) when pulling out or installing resistors or caps. any store like radio shack  or on line several places like parts express for one has a variety.  i get mine from CE dist but they are wholesale only.  also i soldered #10 solid copper wire into the jaws of simple alligator clips that act as heat sinks to keep from overheating parts with short leads while soldering--especially caps.  small forceps are also pretty handy for a multitude of small tight space work.  small flush cut wire cutters and size specific strippers are also my most used go to tools for lead prep.  plier like tools with spring loaded handles are my favorites.  a good quality multimeter goes without saying is going to be your most used tool right up there with a good temp regulated soldering station--not just a cheapie iron--save that for your gig bag repair kit.  i can be more specific with details if you would like.

[Willabe]

i can be more specific with details if you would like.

Please do. Always good to hear about what different guys are using for tools.


         Brad      

[LooseChange]

This is my newest tool... I love this thing!
http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=S-TGTJPT1

[RicharD]

+1 on the lamp limiter.  It's the single most important tool in a tube shop.

[riffanvil]

i just found out the hard way if you navigate one click away from a post you are working on it is gone forever-----so what follows is the cliff notes version of what i juat wrote.

guys, i am a novice compared to many here but i have used tools all of my life. (actually ran a forging business and made literally tons of tools).  i am the guy who rubber necks when a SNAP ON van goes by.  the problem for me is finding that specialty tool when i need it---other than my favorites.  i listed just a few in a previous post and this is in response to being asked for detail.

cutters: for amp and guitar work small is better IMHO. ecelite 4" MS54v and 5" 170M flush cut (fine tips and bigger handles).  find em here    http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=435&CFID=32559410&CFTOKEN=22307332 
ecelite tools feel good and are really good.  i still use the nut driver set my dad gave me over 40 years ago.

decade boxes:  i have a few higher capacity boxes but use the TENMA boxes for most dialing in "wonder what this will do" stuff.  this will get you to decade box land:   http://www.newark.com/tenma/72-7270/resistance-decade-box-1-to-11111110ohm/dp/22H6397?in_merch=Popular Decade Boxes&MER=PPSO_N_P_DecadeBoxes_None

soldering picks:  i have lots of dental style picks with heat shrink handles and a set of these   http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4314828      steren also has ones made of teflon i think that are not a heat sink for desoldering.

solder sucker:.: mine is  aluminum barrel and feels precision.  it came from CE distribution and will suck a fly out of mid air (just kidding).  but it beats the plastic fall apart ones twice as big by a mile. a tip now and then, a new o ring every 2 years little silicone grease every few months after a good cleaning  and i think it is good forever.

ditto on the light limiter.  mine has a duplex plug with one socket limited and the other straight line.  both are clearly marked and any amp first gets plugged into the limited side and then easily switched to the other after you exhale after first fire up.  i have a sexy red 75 w flood light bulb that helps you get into panic mode faster if something is wrong.  reminds me of the red flash feeling the cops gave me  in detroit after a green light burn out.  btw stock up on incandescent bulbs.. i hear they are going to be scarce north of the border.  my limiter is permanently mounted over the bench.

my favorite soldering station for the bucks is XYTRONIC.  fast heat up, really fast recovery and good temp control... i also have weller and pace (solder desolder) digital stations but like the xytronic the best.

my DMM is a fluke 28.  rugged and accurate, reliable and versatile.  i have lots of the cheapies in every gig bag, car, even by my bedside, and my old analog meters but this fluke is the one to check them all by.

a variac is a must imho.  mine came from los alamos and is a 10 amp built to survive a nuclear blast  ;)

can anyone help me with how to type a post and to be able to see what i am typing if it is longer than the size of the 'dialog box" or "reply box"?  mine jumps to the end and back to the last line that filled up the box with each letter i type and drives me to wanting to plug me into my limiter!!!  or put a gum wrapper around my fuse  :o

[LooseChange]

Don't write so much. 

For diagnosis purposes...
I have a variac and never use it.
light bulb limiter
A good meter
chopstick
hand full of jumper cables
1000v - 100n capacitor with one end grounded and the other end with a probe.
22uf - 600v cap with one end grounded and the other end with a probe.

[sluckey]

can anyone help me with how to type a post and to be able to see what i am typing if it is longer than the size of the 'dialog box" or "reply box"?  

Using IE8? Click on the "Compatibility View" icon just to the right of the address bar.

[stingray_65]

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&biw=1024&bih=655&q=weller+wesd51&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=3550262062613965780&sa=X&ei=TK7GTZW2GcGa0QHWu7DwAQ&ved=0CEgQ8wIwAQ#

I asked the guys here what soldering iron they were using, I bought the WESD51 and my soldering skills have improved immensely.

I also ordered a half dozen tips and have used every one of them since.

If I had this to do all over I would have gotten this station at the very get go.

Every component mentioned above can only be connected to another with solder, having a professional tool helps make your work professional.

I cannot say how much this has helped me.

You may decide on a different brand, there a a few good others (look at Hakko and Tenma)

I THOUGHT the soldering irons I was buying were good, (Wellers), but WOW! what a difference!.

I have found a new use for my old irons, they have nice cords that remove easily with my Xcelite diagonal cutters.

****OPINION ALERT****
everyone who is serious about electronics should own a GREAT solering iron

Ray

[riffanvil]

re a variac:  i live in a country where 128vac is the standard.  the reality is that it can be anywhere from 90-140.  and forget a physical ground---they don't get that concept here. an extra wire? it works fine with just two!!!  so any musician who doesn't carry a cheapie dmm to gigs is asking for a reason to get to know me, or the local doctors.   scary stories of "shocking performances" here are common.  humid salty coastal climate with skimpy or no footware standing on masonry---you get the ground path picture i'm sure.

 i carry 2 different boost buck transformers to every gig and a simple gig bag physical ground setup you can make for a few bucks that will possibly save your gear and prevent hot lips encounters with the microphone or guitar..  one tranny (koblenz) is 2000w and is designed to kick out 128v. it supplies the band through a 25' 12 ga that has outlets in 3 places along it's length.  the "drop it boxes", for each individual musician are also domestic koblenz 128 v ones i modify so they put out 116v when there is 128v coming in.  the variac helped me figure this out along with my tenma decade box.  the "drop it boxes" have become very popular for ex pats here with north of the border gear.

anyway since the amps i work on are often from the 110-115v era or from canada where even new gear is marked 115v---- and since this country is plagued with highly variable VAC, transient spikes and a hot climate ----lots of gear failure is due to over voltage and related heat problems.  i often get "can you make my amp sound like it does at such and such club"? usually voltage rather than acoustics is the reason.   i have gone in and rewired some places we play regularly to have at least a dedicated breaker and a physical ground for the stage.  if not, when the lights come on and the kitchen microwave, toasters, convection ovens etc and beer coolers and refers start working hard expect surprises on stage.   a club we played was wired with #14 into the main breaker box from who know's where (two breakers--actually glass fuses) and the stage shared one of the circuits and was supplied with a domestic 50' 16/3 extension cord.  i just have to laugh.  works for mariachis ---but a 5 piece rock band---fagetaboutit!

anyway for me, a variac is essential to set up an amp to work with my "drop it box" at 116v.  and it is great for forming caps slowly though i think many use the limiter light setup for that.  i like forming slowly using the incremental voltage stage method but have not seen  actual study documentation to say one method is really better.  i always just think of trickle charging a dead battery as being better than hitting it with 20 amps if you are looking for long life.  motown hot rod school 101.

i typed this post a little long to test the compatibility mode tip and it works great.  thank you thank you thank you---i was starting to feel like i was in the manchurian candidate movie----now if i could spell check this stuff that would be cool.  i could do that on my last laptop but forgot how i got there.

gig day today --- time for an old fart nap.

[sluckey]

now if i could spell check this stuff that would be cool.

Well, just install Google Toolbar. It includes a spell checker that checks anything typed into a form, such as you use when typing a message on this board.

[riffanvil]

thank you.  i had the google search box already on a toolbar but installed the complete toolbar.  that is what i used to have on my other computer.  this one is running windows 7 and is a bit different (better) than the cumbersome vista on my last laptop.

thanks again amigo--

[Willabe]

You have got to be kidding me. That's all I had to do to get a spell check for the forum?  

Man, well it only took me a year and a half to learn that.         Well at least I was able to figure out how to install it in only a couple of minutes.      

  
          Brad            

  

[Fresh_Start]

I can't believe no one has mentioned a solid chassis cradle yet!

+1 on light bulb limiter, jumpers, etc.

An analog voltage meter is very nice to have in addition to your DMM.

Resistance and capacitance decade boxes are good, but be careful about power ratings.  That one linked to above is only rated for 0.3 watts.  Probably fine in most cases - just need to be aware of limitations.

A collection of different tubes is great to have.  Example:  I collected multiple pairs of EL-84s searching for Goldilocks for my Blues Jr.  HATED the JJ EL-84s in that amp.  Much later, I fixed up a little Crate amp for a friend.  The power tubes were shot.  Tried everything else first, then plugged in the JJs: voila!  Perfect in that amp.  Same goes for preamp tubes - that hot Tung Sol 12AX7 which sounded soooo good in the Tweed Princeton may sound like perfect crap in an AB763 circuit.

One of the best trouble shooting tools for me has been a "listening amp" box like Hoffman shows at the bottom of THIS PAGE.  Mine isn't quite like that diagram but close enough.  I plug the other end into a small, clean transistor combo.  This is a fantastic tool for figuring out exactly where your problem is hiding.

Cheers,

Chip

[jjasilli]

I've been wrestling with the same topic.  My solution has been to buy parts in quantity.   For inexpensive parts like resistors, maybe 6 -12 at a time.  To keep track of inventory, I sort them into labeled, sealable plastic bags; then keep a range of values in labeled plastic drawers.  

Over time I acumulated some substitution boxes for resistors and caps.  I built a dummy load box; and a dual cathode resistor box using 500R rheostats with switchable bypass caps in standard values.  

Test equipment:  Light bulb limiter.  An array of DMM's & VTVM's.  I'm paranoid about voltages and like to monitor voltages at several locations (like plates and screens) at the same time.  Analog meters are good for that, because the needles gives quick confirmation at a glance - but several sets of digital read-outs is overwhelming.

Signal generator.  Variac.  If you're into design it's best to always feed the same wall voltage to the amps under test.  As pointed out a nominal 120VAC could range from, say, 115 - 125VAC.  A 10VAC difference multiplied by, say, 3 through the PT is a difference of 30V on the power tubes, which will skew your measurements.

'Scope.  Power supply.   Listening amp.

[jjasilli]

And I forgot the most important thing: wire strippers
Auto-Size Squeeze-n-Strip Wire Strippers  http://www.mcmaster.com/#wire-strippers/=c8eowv

Though I got a pair cheaper on eBay.

[riffanvil]

i am hooked on the compact v notch stripper on the same mcmaster carr page catalog #7660K11 .  i have a few models of the "grip and strip ones too and the ubiquitous multi notch crimper stripper cutter bottle opener survival combos. but because my favorite v notch ones can be set for a certain wire size, 1 works for most 20-22 ga and another is set for 18 and that covers most stuff i use.  the one set for 18 will do larger just using a bit more feel and less pressure.  the thing i like is that they are small and lay flat on the bench without being in the way of the rest of the clutter and and don't take up much room in my small machinist tool drawers right over the bench when i put everything away once a month  ;).

fresh start --please describe the chassis cradle.  i just have a bunch of rubber covered wooden blocks.  i always thought an adjustable swivel cradle would be great but the list is so long and the life so short.

ditto on a signal generator and signal (listening) amp.  quick way to narrow down a problem.

thanks again for helping get spell checker back though it didn't like "crimper" above.

[Tone Junkie]

Thanks guys you have really put some good stuff down here   

[Fresh_Start]

Just in case it hasn't been mentioned before, we all need a dummy load or attenuator for testing without shredding speakers (or eardrums).

fresh start --please describe the chassis cradle.  i just have a bunch of rubber covered wooden blocks.  i always thought an adjustable swivel cradle would be great but the list is so long and the life so short.

Hoffman's basic amp cradles are shown here:  http://www.el34world.com/Hoffman/tools.htm

Starting with Doug's approach, I made something a little more complicated (go figure) to get the chassis at an angle.  Here are a couple of pics that may give you the basic idea:



This one shows the chassis on top of the side supports - sometimes I need it flat like when working on the front panel.  It also shows the small L-shaped supports which support the chassis in the normal position.



If you look at those two photos, you'll see a few things I find useful:  forceps, heat sinks, an air conditioner, and flying insect death spray

Cheers,

Chip

[riffanvil]

wow, that cradle is really nice and it leaves a space underneath for some tools.  cool idea and it gave me a few ideas as well.  i am picturing one that pivots on bearing points like pillow blocks--- like a barbecue spit.  one fixed shaft and one that slides in and out to accommodate different chassis lengths. 

if my wife ever saw your clean bench she would be on my case for months. (actually has been for 37 years but usually with a cup of tea in her hand for me). if it weren't for gigs and my morning coffee amigos i would easily stay occupied here ad infinitum.  my studio is a real man cave.  i have 3 houses on my property, plus a bodega and a wood/metal shop.  we live in one and the rest is for "boy" stuff.  one house is a place i record/practice and do the electronic (clean) work.  i converted the kitchen into the amp part and the dining part is now the guitar assy and repair part.  the living room is the jam and record part and the bedroom is the cache of gear and guest quarters.  this house has become known as the amp kitchen and the guitar hilton. 

the ac unit a few feet away makes me jealous.  the summers here are rough and i have 2x14kbtu ac units for the guitar hilton that cost a fortune to run as they put my residential bill into the penalty zone.  strange system here and power is very expensive over a certain point.  so i use fans, sweat and change shirts allot all summer.  i need to have like a 5kbtu ac and some meat locker curtains around the amp kitchen and at least drop the humidity a bit.  dripping sweat on a "hot" amp isn't  good  practice.
tropical coastal summers are brutal.  it's corpus cristi texas on steroids.

could someone walk me through the way to post a photo i take here so i can send a few shots of the digs? it will force a cleanup though i suspect my "clean" won't even come close to your photos.  too many years and too many bad habits. 

 i've already learned 2 great computer tips on this thread.  thanks guys.

a speaker without a cone works for a dummy load.  actually cut the frame away from the rest and it is about as close as you will get without hearing the load.  but a big wire wound or group of smaller ww ceramics works fine if it matches the tranny output.  they can get pretty warm in a long test so the old speaker seems to handle and dissipate that heat better.  our drummer is what i really wish i could attenuate.

[Fresh_Start]

I could lie and tell you my workshop always is neat & tidy but it's not.  The first pic showing part of the shop was taken shortly after I built the new workbench.  It gets messy very quickly.  However, the workshop is MUCH neater than my office...

Wondering about muddled priorities...

Chip

[EL34]

can anyone help me with how to type a post and to be able to see what i am typing if it is longer than the size of the 'dialog box" or "reply box"?

Don't type that much!

Personally, I don't read post that ar very long and don't seem to have any punctuation and pauses.

Not saying that's what you were doing, just throwing out some info.

Don't write so much.

 
That' what I said. 

[Fresh_Start]

There was a long discussion about amp cradles here in the Tools section a couple of years ago.  IRRC tubenit posted a design for a really cool, rotating design which could accomodate a circuit board OR a chassis.

Was that short enough?

Chip

[PRR]

> if i could spell check this stuff

I believe FireFox has built-in spell-chuck.

It may also lack whatever stupid thing IE8 does with the compose window?

The other way is to do your typing in a decent plain-text editor. Then you can Alt-Tab between the thread and your words. You can navigate the browser without losing your words. When it rains and the internet goes away, you can save your words for posting when the connection comes back. And if you pick the editor well, it can spell-check. (I favor UltraEdit 10, which is like NotePad with many-many extra features, but does cost money and UE14 has got too fancy for me.)

Personally I found Google ToolBar just a bit too intrusive (though less-so that all the other toolbars that some people accumulate).

> v notch stripper

These were forbidden in computer factories in the 1960s: you could be dismissed for bringing them onto the property. They nick the wire, it works a while and then breaks. With great care, the nick may not fail in your lifetime. I use mostly the round-groove type, like McMC sells for $44 but a lesser brand is in Home Depot near $10 and Radio Shed has a flip-over cutter/stripper for $14. Two sizes: #28-#16 and #18-#10. (I've skinned so much #12 this winter I sometimes go to sleep with the strippers still in my pocket.)

[DummyLoad]

I believe FireFox has built-in spell-chuck.

it does.

It may also lack whatever stupid thing IE8 does with the compose window?

it does lack the compose stupidity feature.

i use IExx only for updates, manual that is. ...and that occasional site scripted for micro$. M$ updates are "automatic" nowadays.... 

--DL

[riffanvil]

sorry if my verbosity got away from me.  i live in a country where english isn't the primary language and talking tubes or tools related to them is something i never ever get to do with anyone that understands.  english or spanish.  maybe i got carried away.  just trying to introduce myself a bit.
but rest assured, long before i get to 4518 posts i will have said everything i know using my "out of the box" long posts.  ;)

interesting tip on the cutters---i have been using mine since the 60's with several sets of shrink tube handles and a few sharpenings.  hope i didn't leave a trail of broken wire behind me.  at least in the 15 years i have been here that hasn't presented a problem but i have them adjusted well for the larger of 2 sizes i use them on.  i can see how a set that was not set for a specific wire size could actually be used as a cutter too.  i have a usb microscope i use for guitar string break analysis and a dozen different style strippers.  might be fun to compare the wires stripped by different tools.  i've actually seen "pros" use side cutters.

is there a link to how to post photos from a camera here?  just like the ones of the cradle in this thread.  i would appreciate that tip.  this site has given me much food for thought and help in just a few posts.  thank you guys (and gals?)  whew--stopped just at the end of the box.  see i can learn el34.

[sluckey]

> v notch stripper

These were forbidden in computer factories in the 1960s:

Ditto in my LOB also. Most of the equipment I work on has Circuit Card Assemblies (CCAs) that plug into rows of connectors in a card nest frame that may house dozens or hundreds of cards. Interconnections are made on the back side of the connectors (backplane) via wire wrap terminals using AWG 26 or 30. Those v strippers always nick the wire and a big percentage of them will break when the wirewrap gun wraps the wire on the terminal. Or even worse, a break occurs at the nick due to stress at some later time. Broken wires on a dense backplane can be nearly impossible to locate, especially if it's a level one wire with two more levels of wires above it! Properly sized round strippers are much better but even these will occasionally nick the wire. Thermal strippers are a must when nicks cannot be tolerated.

is there a link to how to post photos from a camera here?

Pics taken directly from a camera will most likely exceed the filesize limit Doug has set up. Unless you have one of those 20 year old Sony Mavericks with the 3.5" floppy media. Put the pics on your hard drive. Then you most likely will have to resize, crop, etc. using a graphics program such as PhotoShop or Paint Shop Pro. Once the pic meets the filesize limit it's easy to attach to your message. While entering your message, click on the Additional Options... link below the text box. Then you'll see another text box for a filename. Use the Browse... button to select the pic file from your hard drive.

If you have a pic that needs to be huge to show proper detail, just upload it to another online photo sharing service and just post a link to the pic in your message. There are other alternatives too, but this will cover most pics you want to share with us.

stopped just at the end of the box

The text box is not a fixed size. It varies with your screen resolution and also depends on if your browser is full screen or in a window. The root of the problem is a glitch in the way IE8 handles scrolling in a text entry box. Rather than fix the problem, MS gave us the "Compatability View" button. The problem is not a universal problem. Some websites are not affected. The Compatability view remembers which site you have enabled it for.

.

[G._Hoffman]

I don't know that I would call them absolute requirements, but the tools I love the most are my round nose pliers for bending leads a wires to an appropriate radius (I have two, but my favorite is the one I stole from my dad that he got back in the early 1960's when he was building a Heathkit stereo), my gauged wire heatsinks, and my thermal wire stripper.  Oh, and a good soldering station, of course (a WDES51 - I WANT a rework station, but I can't justify spending $1000+ just so I don't have to wrestle with a solder sucker!)

Oh, and for any kind of metal work, I really love my deburring tools.  Far too effective for a tool that costs less that $5.



Gabriel

[riffanvil]

sluckey, thank you for the tips.  i might have to break a 40 year old bad habit with the v strippers.  i am going to do a little microscope work first.

i just sent some photos from my canon A590 to the owner of a custom 1 off fodera bass i am rewiring.  they were 129k and 155k. WOULD THAT BE AN ACCEPTABLE SIZE?  the camera with an 8 gig sd is my bench record keeper and i take every thing in low res since most are just records.  any expensive piece of gear gets photo'd as soon as it comes in with the owner present and there that way i have a record of "that nick or blemish" that wasn't there according to that occasional troublesome customer.  also a great memory trigger for how something "was" while i wait sometimes months for odd parts.  it is the best and easiest filing system for the bench i have ever used.  a picture is worth a thousand words.  i won't write so much that way  :O

i have a pair of jewelers eyelet pliers i really like for turret work.  it has one flat smooth jaw and one tapered smooth cone shaped jaw.  actually i have lots of jewelers tools in my kit.

my pace desolder station doesn't get used all that much unless i am completely taking something down.    i felt the same before i got it but a good solder sucker is such a simple functional tool.

[PRR]

> how to post photos from a camera here?
> ACCEPTABLE SIZE?

[stingray_65]

I use mostly the round-groove type, like McMC sells for $44 but a lesser brand is in Home Depot near $10 and Radio Shed has a flip-over cutter/stripper for $14. Two sizes: #28-#16 and #18-#10. (I've skinned so much #12 this winter I sometimes go to sleep with the strippers still in my pocket.)

I've went through 2 of those Rat Shack strippers in as many years, LOVE them! the cutters on them are pretty good too. <$15 I recommend trying them.

[sluckey]

These $15 Klein strippers are hard to beat for amp work. I use mostly teflon insulated wire that requires very sharp, precise cutters. Klein gets it done. There's a yellow stripper that does the 3-wire 'trician thang too. As with any stripper, the more you use them, the sooner you'll need to replace them. Especially true with teflon.

[LooseChange]

Is there a tool that strips the casing off aa three wire power cord?

[jjasilli]

Oh, and for any kind of metal work, I really love my deburring tools.  Far too effective for a tool that costs less that $5.

Gabriel

What do you recommend?

[G._Hoffman]

Oh, and for any kind of metal work, I really love my deburring tools.  Far too effective for a tool that costs less that $5.

Gabriel

What do you recommend?

Well, go to McMaster-Carr and look up deburring tool.  That is how I got the two I like the most, although they are a bit more than $5.  Still less than $10, though.  I also bought one at Sears, though, and that one is just great too.


Gabriel

[RicharD]

>I've skinned so much #12 this winter I sometimes go to sleep with the strippers still in my pocket.

Ha!  I regularly dump tons of little 3/4" pieces of insulation out of my pockets.

[sluckey]

Ha!  I regularly dump tons of little 3/4" pieces of insulation out of my pockets.

I bet you could make some neat bracelets and necklaces with that stuff. 

[DummyLoad]

Ha!  I regularly dump tons of little 3/4" pieces of insulation out of my pockets.

I bet you could make some neat bracelets and necklaces with that stuff. 

what would make you think he hasn't? 

 

[escopunk]

Oh, I like this thread!!!, Heres my shop.

[Voxbox]

I'll second Sluckey's choice of wire strippers, the Klein (or T-Stripper last time I bought them).
I've used them, as pro-wiremen I've worked with have too, over the past thirty years, wiring many installations with them, and building a few amps too.
It's a brilliant stripper, doesn't nick the conductor, and there's no need for specialised teflon strippers with these either.