First make SURE your 6L6 is powered and volted to best advantage. What plate-cathode voltage? What current? What load?
6550 was intended to cover the far-fringe of audio amps: deep fix-bias push-pull HIGH power.
However it works fine cathode bias.
I spent a LOT of time fooling with a Single-Ended 6550. The manual says 20 Watts but this is at high THD, large bias-shift, and inconvenient G2 voltage. My scratchings said 17 Watts would be nice. My parts-hunt did not turn up just-right parts.
I ended up with 13 watts of fairly clean sine-wave and 25 watts of total distortion (which would not threaten a "20W" guitar-market speaker). I could get here with just 34 watts Pdiss, and the PT and OT that I had would not match-up to be able to take advantage of the 42W Pdiss rating.
With a third re-build I probably could have found my 17 Watts, but the difference on the ear 17 vs 13 is not worth the effort.
6L6GC should do 3/4 the output of 6550. That's not on the datasheet which didn't update the SE suggestion for the GC redesign.
> It looks like in class A operation, a 6V6 is only a little less wattage than a 6L6.
No. 6V6 can't sanely make 6 watts. Original 6L6 had an SE suggestion for 11W; this turned out to be too bold and was revised to 10W. However this is the 19WPdiss can; the 30WPdiss bottle can do more.
Run two 6L6GC at 25W Pdiss each (50W total, >60W for total plate power). If correctly loaded, that puts you just about 20W clean sine, and your "20W" guitar speaker will easily swallow such an amp even full-blast clipping.
Two 6V6 in push-pull will also get near 20W, using standard Fender-clone iron, with much less heat and weight than a good 20W SE amp. Lower THD too, up to clipping. So be _sure_ you need the SE overdrive sound.