You've lost me a bit with the change from "resistor in parallel" to "resistor in series". There's also no set rule for how to set up a "treble bleed" or "bright cap". It's all about getting a sound you want. A parallel resistor is often about faking a particular pot taper, while a series resistor is about taming the intensity of the treble bleed.
We could derive an equation, and talk what specific frequency is being affected x-amount, but do we necessarily know what number to shoot for?
A faster way is a (maybe homemade) cap substitution box with a variety of pF-range caps, and place a maybe 250k-500k pot in series, wired as a variable resistor. Set the pot for no resistance, and dial the cap box until you get the range of treble/mid boost you want. Start turning up the pot to tame the amount of boost. Go back and forth as needed to zero-in on the sound you like best.
When done, note the value cap selected and measure the resistance between the pot lugs. Or if you rigged up a box at home for repeated tweaking of this type, maybe you have measured and marked resistances on the panel of the box, and can read off the value from that. Choose the closest standard value, or if it "has to be exactly that" select a pair of resistors that provide that value when paralleled.