Old electrolytic caps are bad news. I think it's ill advised to reform old caps but the procedure is simple enough. You want to put 2 resistors in series so that there is a current flow path. Use something like a 10k and a 1M. Put the cap to be reformed in parallel with the 1M so it will be across the larger voltage. Put your volt meter in parallel with the 1M and cap. Start out with a small voltage, like 10VDC and gradually increase it. When I say gradually, I mean over the course of many hours. Eventually you want toe DC voltage to be = to the rated DC voltage of the cap. When you're done, carefully disconnect the DC supply so that the 1M is still in parallel with the capacitor. It should drain very slowly. 1M at 450VDC should take about 1 minute to drain. If it drops quickly, throw away the cap and call it a lesson learned.
>What happen if the 50+50 uf LCr cap dead?
The first sign of a failing electrolytic cap is hum. This is because the cap is starting to go short. This is putting additional load and stress on the PT. The worse the cap gets, the worse the hum and B+ will start to be lower. Your PT will start to run hot. When the cap goes 100% short, it can take out your PT and rectifier if improperly fused.
I do realize that it is very important to some people that their amp looks original. If you are not afraid nasty ass goo and somewhat talented with a knife, you can open up an old can cap and restuff it with new electrolytics. In a happy power supply, grey caps sound as good as blue, or pink, or even green caps. A more common practice is to leave the old can caps disconnected in place and install new axial caps inside the chassis where they don't show.
Again, old electrolytic caps = bad news. It's a problem just waiting to happen that can ruin a vintage PT. I strongly discourage the use of old electrolytics.