<<<SOLVED>>> AB763 scratch build noise issues

[fdesalvo]

I'm having some strange issues with noise in my scratch build - it's grounded per fender grounding scheme on doug's site, which worked great for my last 2 builds.

1. There is a buzzing sound when I TOUCH my guitar strings.  Lol, exact opposite of what I would expect.  It's pretty quiet when I let go of the strings.  I'm using Switchcraft jacks and have the switch and ground tied together with the tip going to the input of V1a.


2. There is a low hum in the background - even with standby engaged.  It's the same frequency as the transformer itself vibrating, which is very subtle.  

*When placing the output transformer, I used the "headphones" test to get the optimal orientation with respect to the ot.  
*I have the heater ct grounded along with the other pt ct - didn't use artificial ct.  Moving wires doesn't alter the sound.  
*I hear the same frequency coming from my refrigerator, which may be on the same circuit.  Even my Mesa Stiletto makes this same sound - it may be some dirty power (?)..


3.  The treble control set relatively high introduces some pretty significant hissing.  Not sure what's up, as I'm using metal film resistors throughout.  Then again, I've never owned a Blackface, so maybe it's normal.


On the positive side, I can tell the amp is going to sound amazing after I resolve these issues!  The tone is already there.  I've never had to troubleshoot a build, so I'm kind of at a loss. Sluckey, I may ban you from contributing, as you have been doing some heavy lifting on my bias issue thread!  

I have some pics of the build here:

http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/qq151/frank_desalvo/Scratch%20built%20amp/

[TIMBO]

I have some similar noises happening in a current build and i have been able to reduce most of the noise by elevating the heater circuit. This can done by connecting the heater ct to the power tube cathode, But because you have a fixed bias you may need to build a little circuit that will put a little DC voltage on the heater ct. Google ELEVATED HEATERS lots of info

[fdesalvo]

Thanks for the advice, TIMBO.  

I did look into all of the different heater grounding methods, but all the research I read for PTs with a 6.3V CT led me to believe I could just ground it along with the other CTs at the main ground point on the PT bolt.  I may try the 100ohm resistor method, but not sure how much noise is actually coming from the heater circuit!

The main low Hz buzzing I'm hearing is there even in standby.  I can feel the PT vibrating to the same frequency if that makes any sense.  The crazy thing is if I have my hands off of the guitar and I roll the volume pot on it halfway back, the slight buzz morphs into a deep bassy type of tone.  With the guitar's volume up 100% the buzz is loudest when I touch the strings!  Normally this guitar buzzes slightly when I have my hands off of the metal bits.     I've tried an outlet on the other side of my apt and no change in level is heard.

The hiss I'm hearing is only intrusive at volume above 50%, which may be normal at 100% treble settings.  Again - I can't say for certain!  It's not that bad to be honest.

[Willabe]

You can only use 1 or the other, either use the heater CT or use the 2x100R's. If your PT has a CT for the heaters why not use it?

Either way should work just as well as the other, noise wise.

OTOH, a dcv stand-off may help as Timbo suggested. I use them on my builds and like them so far, with no problems.


                           
                                    Brad             

[stratele52]

1. There is a buzzing sound when I TOUCH my guitar strings.  Lol, exact opposite of what I would expect.  It's pretty quiet when I let go of the strings.  I'm using Switchcraft jacks and have the switch and ground tied together with the tip going to the input of V1a.
 
http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/qq151/frank_desalvo/Scratch%20built%20amp/

It look like you have a ground missing at inputs jacks or close .

[stratele52]

I have some similar noises happening in a current build and i have been able to reduce most of the noise by elevating the heater circuit. This can done by connecting the heater ct to the power tube cathode, But because you have a fixed bias you may need to build a little circuit that will put a little DC voltage on the heater ct. Google ELEVATED HEATERS lots of info

If you build a nice and "standard a la Fender"  heater wiring , twisted with ground or artificial center tap you don't need DC supply to be quiet . If you are sure your heater circuit are well built , look elswhere.

[fdesalvo]

1. There is a buzzing sound when I TOUCH my guitar strings.  Lol, exact opposite of what I would expect.  It's pretty quiet when I let go of the strings.  I'm using Switchcraft jacks and have the switch and ground tied together with the tip going to the input of V1a.
 
http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/qq151/frank_desalvo/Scratch%20built%20amp/

It look like you have a ground missing at inputs jacks or close .

I can't seem to find that.  I have the filter caps for V1/2 grounded on the bus near the input (a little further downstream than the cathodes).

[fdesalvo]

I have some similar noises happening in a current build and i have been able to reduce most of the noise by elevating the heater circuit. This can done by connecting the heater ct to the power tube cathode, But because you have a fixed bias you may need to build a little circuit that will put a little DC voltage on the heater ct. Google ELEVATED HEATERS lots of info

If you build a nice and "standard a la Fender"  heater wiring , twisted with ground or artificial center tap you don't need DC supply to be quiet . If you are sure your heater circuit are well built , look elswhere.

Yep - that's how it's done.  Thanks!

[sluckey]

You do have the green wire from the IEC jack connected to chassis ground, right? And the convenience outlet in the wall is properly grounded?

Hiss with treble and volume up is pretty common on this amp, especially if you have a bright, sensitive speaker.

[fdesalvo]

We meet again!

Yes green wire from iec is at chassis ground. I need to check the outlet to see if it's grounded. Any method you'd recommend? 

Hiss wise I don't think it's too bad and it's going into two v30s- def bright speakers!

You do have the green wire from the IEC jack connected to chassis ground, right? And the convenience outlet in the wall is properly grounded?

Hiss with treble and volume up is pretty common on this amp, especially if you have a bright, sensitive speaker.

[sluckey]

I need to check the outlet to see if it's grounded. Any method you'd recommend?

Just use your meter. Hot (narrow blade) to Neutral (wide blade) should be 120VAC. Hot to ground (round) should be 120VAC. Ground to neutral should be zero or small millivolts.

There is a small cheap tester with lights that might be worth keeping in your gig bag, if you play out.

BTW, which meter did you buy? What was your old meter? The old one may simply need fresh batteries. Compare some reading (ohms, dc volts, ac volts, etc.) between the two meters. May help build some confidence in the old one. 'Course, doing so may make you chunk the old one too! 

[fdesalvo]

It is indeed grounded (much to my chagrin!).  I'll have to continue to search for an answer for the low level hum.

The guitar grounding bit is another mystery altogether.  What would make a guitar noisier when you ground the strings with your hand?




The ol Meter is a Ratshak model I was given as a hand-me-down.  :D

The new one was bought from Lowes - it's and Ideal 61-340.  It's not a Fluke, but it's a definite upgrade and it's very user friendly.

I need to check the outlet to see if it's grounded. Any method you'd recommend?

Just use your meter. Hot (narrow blade) to Neutral (wide blade) should be 120VAC. Hot to ground (round) should be 120VAC. Ground to neutral should be zero or small millivolts.

There is a small cheap tester with lights that might be worth keeping in your gig bag, if you play out.

BTW, which meter did you buy? What was your old meter? The old one may simply need fresh batteries. Compare some reading (ohms, dc volts, ac volts, etc.) between the two meters. May help build some confidence in the old one. 'Course, doing so may make you chunk the old one too! 

[stratele52]

Fdesalvo, you don't use shorting jack ? And where is the input 1 meg resistor to ground ?

 All your pot's body could need to be grounded with your buss ground wire. I know these pot body  are not easy to solder. Your chassis front plate is ( ? ) maybe not enough for a good ground.
 

[sluckey]

And where is the input 1 meg resistor to ground ?

Good catch. And where's the 68K grid stopper too? On the socket maybe?

[fdesalvo]

Yes im using a shorting jack and the 68k is at the socket end.  Now I do not have a 1m to ground at the input. Was following the Hoffman layout and didn't see it- prob because there are no hi/low inputs?   

Pot body- in using PEC pots and you can't solder to the Backs of these without some kind of caustic chemical. The guys that use these ground them as I have without issue on various Marshall builds. I wish I could get a bus on them for piece of mind, but I think the pots that are grounded are still grounded at the same points they would be with a bus in place!

Thanks for your time guys

Fdesalvo, you don't use shorting jack ? And where is the input 1 meg resistor to ground ?

 All your pot's body could need to be grounded with your buss ground wire. I know these pot body  are not easy to solder. Your chassis front plate is ( ? ) maybe not enough for a good ground.
 

[sluckey]

Now I do not have a 1m to ground at the input. Was following the Hoffman layout and didn't see it- prob because there are no hi/low inputs?

Doug has that info on the common hookups page, even for a single input jack.
http://www.el34world.com/charts/CommonHookups.htm

That's an important resistor. Might even resolve one of your problems. Very easy to mount directly on the jack.

[fdesalvo]

Sounds good to me. I'll add that tonight and report back. Thanks

[Ed_Chambley]

Yes im using a shorting jack and the 68k is at the socket end.  Now I do not have a 1m to ground at the input. Was following the Hoffman layout and didn't see it- prob because there are no hi/low inputs?   

Pot body- in using PEC pots and you can't solder to the Backs of these without some kind of caustic chemical. The guys that use these ground them as I have without issue on various Marshall builds. I wish I could get a bus on them for piece of mind, but I think the pots that are grounded are still grounded at the same points they would be with a bus in place!

Thanks for your time guys

Fdesalvo, you don't use shorting jack ? And where is the input 1 meg resistor to ground ?

 All your pot's body could need to be grounded with your buss ground wire. I know these pot body  are not easy to solder. Your chassis front plate is ( ? ) maybe not enough for a good ground.
 

I use PEC pots all the time and solder a bus wire to them.  They are stainless steel and require much more heat.  First thing is to get the copper wire out of the center of the romex.  The bare ground copper wire and tin it..  Then any solder lugs that ground, bend them forward and to a right angle.  You will also have to put a scribe in them to make the lugs round as they are oblong.  Sand the top of the pots, do not use a wire brush or wire wheel.  Brush a very light coat of rosin on the pot where you sanded.  Run your bus wire through the ones you have bent out and then bend them down until they tough the top of the pots.  It will form a valley at the center top of each pot.  Any pot you have threaded, just apply solder to the lug and you are done.  Any pot left  get the iron very hot as you will not be putting heat directly on the pots.  Put the iron on the wire and the solder on the top of the pot very close to the new bus wire, but not touching it.  Shortly a bead of solder will run across the top of the pot to the bus wire.

I hope this makes sense as I wish I had a photo to show.

Here is a link but you have to scroll down a long way to see the photo.  They are CTS pots, but it shows the romex idea.
http://acapella.harmony-central.com/showthread.php?2291424-Jtm-45-build-instructions.

Most of them will be able to be grounded by the lug anyway.

[fdesalvo]

Thanks, Ed -

Whenever I see your last name in a post, I think of the lil' greek guy from The Hangover and I crack a smile.

I have a 40w iron and a huge jiggawatt gun.  I have used the gun to successfully solder onto steel chassis in the past, but even after sanding the backs of these particular pots, the cooled solder can be removed with a little lateral pressure from my fingernail.  Rosin must be the missing ingredient I reckon.  Thanks for your post and I'll have a look at your link.

For those who didn't know the role of the 1M input resistor , have a quick look.  This would explain the behavior of my guitar at the moment:

"The 1M resistor helps bias the input of the tube and completes the circuit so the voltage from the guitar is developed at the grid. From the guitar standpoint, if it was not there you would have an open circuit (ignoring the grid for the moment). From the tube's standpoint, the grid should be biased in the range of -1.5V as compared to the cathode (in this circuit). The cathode resistor develops 1.5V across it due to the current that is flowing through the tube (say 1mA across a 1.5k resistor).

Since the one end is at ground potential the other end is at +1.5V. The 1M resistor does not really have any current flowing through it (only the miniscule current from the guitar and from the buildup of electrons that it picks up). Now since there is practically no current through the resistor there is no voltage drop across it (if you do not know Ohm's law and how voltages add up in a series circuit I would advise you to do a bit of studying, almost impossible troubleshooting if you do not have these basics, might as well add parallel circuits also).

So anyway, with no voltage being developed across the 1M resistor, both ends are pretty much at the same voltage. Now since the resistor is connected to the 0V end of the cathode resistor, and the cathode is 1.5V higher than this point, you could say this point is -1.5V as compared to the cathode. And since the other end of the 1M resistor is at this voltage, we can conclude the grid is at -1.5V as compared to the cathode.

The -1.5V biases the tube at the mid point of its range with no signal."

Yes im using a shorting jack and the 68k is at the socket end.  Now I do not have a 1m to ground at the input. Was following the Hoffman layout and didn't see it- prob because there are no hi/low inputs?  

Pot body- in using PEC pots and you can't solder to the Backs of these without some kind of caustic chemical. The guys that use these ground them as I have without issue on various Marshall builds. I wish I could get a bus on them for piece of mind, but I think the pots that are grounded are still grounded at the same points they would be with a bus in place!

Thanks for your time guys

Fdesalvo, you don't use shorting jack ? And where is the input 1 meg resistor to ground ?

 All your pot's body could need to be grounded with your buss ground wire. I know these pot body  are not easy to solder. Your chassis front plate is ( ? ) maybe not enough for a good ground.
 

I use PEC pots all the time and solder a bus wire to them.  They are stainless steel and require much more heat.  First thing is to get the copper wire out of the center of the romex.  The bare ground copper wire and tin it..  Then any solder lugs that ground, bend them forward and to a right angle.  You will also have to put a scribe in them to make the lugs round as they are oblong.  Sand the top of the pots, do not use a wire brush or wire wheel.  Brush a very light coat of rosin on the pot where you sanded.  Run your bus wire through the ones you have bent out and then bend them down until they tough the top of the pots.  It will form a valley at the center top of each pot.  Any pot you have threaded, just apply solder to the lug and you are done.  Any pot left  get the iron very hot as you will not be putting heat directly on the pots.  Put the iron on the wire and the solder on the top of the pot very close to the new bus wire, but not touching it.  Shortly a bead of solder will run across the top of the pot to the bus wire.

I hope this makes sense as I wish I had a photo to show.

Here is a link but you have to scroll down a long way to see the photo.  They are CTS pots, but it shows the romex idea.
http://acapella.harmony-central.com/showthread.php?2291424-Jtm-45-build-instructions.

Most of them will be able to be grounded by the lug anyway.

[fdesalvo]

This chump is stumped.

I added the 1M resistor to the input jack and there is no change  

At 50% volume, the amp will squeal like a banshee when I touch the strings.  Lowering the guitars volume pot introduces a bassy hum.  

 

I'm starting to look at my OT..I have a Heyboer that I can't find any info on, save it's a 40 Fender replacement.  I had to guess at the color coding of the secondary - maybe I have it wrong. 

It's a HY018343 secondary colors are White, Green, Yellow, and Black.  I can't find any info online.

[sluckey]

Hmmm... Disconnect the NFB wire and see if that helps. See pic...

[stratele52]

Hmmm... Disconnect the NFB wire and see if that helps. See pic...

+1 sluckey

[fdesalvo]

Will do - I'm hoping the OT secondaries are the issue at this point.  I will report back this evening.  Haha thanks for the illustration, Steve.

[fdesalvo]

No dice - It just produces a gritty distortion. 

Hmmm... Disconnect the NFB wire and see if that helps. See pic...

[fdesalvo]

Found a diagram for the OT.  At least that is solved.  Noise when touching strings persists.  Went through the amp with my meter checking continuity to ground and retraced all grounds according to Doug's grounding scheme.  All check out!  I also checked my guitar's wiring and it's fine.  Touching the amp's chassis (on the outside) also cuts the buzzing made by holding the strings.

I retested the wall outlet and here's what I have:

Hot to Neutral - 118.5VAC
Hot to Ground- 118.9VAC
Neutral to Ground- ~80mVAC

Looks like the wall juice is decent.

[sluckey]

Touching the amp's chassis (on the outside) also cuts the buzzing made by holding the strings.

This is really beginning to sound like a bad guitar cable or poor ground on input jack. If you have some gator clip cables connect one end to the guitar strings and the other end to amp chassis. Does that fix the problem?

[John]

I added the 1M resistor to the input jack and there is no change

I'm only asking because I managed to wire it wrong once  . You have the resistor going from tip to ground lug, not tip to shorting lug right?

[Ed_Chambley]

This chump is stumped.

I added the 1M resistor to the input jack and there is no change  

At 50% volume, the amp will squeal like a banshee when I touch the strings.  Lowering the guitars volume pot introduces a bassy hum.  

 

I'm starting to look at my OT..I have a Heyboer that I can't find any info on, save it's a 40 Fender replacement.  I had to guess at the color coding of the secondary - maybe I have it wrong. 

It's a HY018343 secondary colors are White, Green, Yellow, and Black.  I can't find any info online.

Email this guy   alden@heyboertransformers.net  and he will send you a hook up sheet in about 15 minutes.

[Ed_Chambley]

I will have to look up lil' greek guy from The Hangover.  I did not know you did not have indalloy flux.  It is necessary for stainless.  Must be cleaned off after use as it is corrosive.  Heat range is maximum of about 600 degrees F which in not a big deal since you are heating the wire.  A 40 watter will not do it.  Not sure about your gun.  I use a pencil butane torch.  Lay the solder in place to protect the pot.  Hit it with the torch on the romex and solder for about a second and wipe with a wet sponge as soon as it solidifies.  Very similar to brazing cast iron if you have ever done that, except a pencil butane torch will not get near as hot as oxyacetylene.

I love PEC pots.  I do not know if it will solve you problem as they seem not to be related.

[fdesalvo]

Touching the amp's chassis (on the outside) also cuts the buzzing made by holding the strings.

This is really beginning to sound like a bad guitar cable or poor ground on input jack. If you have some gator clip cables connect one end to the guitar strings and the other end to amp chassis. Does that fix the problem?

I've verified grounds with my meter, but will try the clip test and another cable.

I added the 1M resistor to the input jack and there is no change

I'm only asking because I managed to wire it wrong once   . You have the resistor going from tip to ground lug, not tip to shorting lug right?

Yes, tip to ground lug. :D

Email this guy   alden@heyboertransformers.net  and he will send you a hook up sheet in about 15 minutes.

I will have to look up lil' greek guy from The Hangover.  I did not know you did not have indalloy flux.  It is necessary for stainless.  Must be cleaned off after use as it is corrosive.  Heat range is maximum of about 600 degrees F which in not a big deal since you are heating the wire.  A 40 watter will not do it.  Not sure about your gun.  I use a pencil butane torch.  Lay the solder in place to protect the pot.  Hit it with the torch on the romex and solder for about a second and wipe with a wet sponge as soon as it solidifies.  Very similar to brazing cast iron if you have ever done that, except a pencil butane torch will not get near as hot as oxyacetylene.

I love PEC pots.  I do not know if it will solve you problem as they seem not to be related.

I'll look those items up- and Heyboer sent me the color codes.  Thanks for the help!

[thelonious]

Man, your pics are great - love it. Not to thread hijack, but what are you shooting with?

[insert standard disclaimer here about how I am a n00b]
Re touching strings buzz issue:
I haven't seen anyone suggest isolating the input jack from the chassis yet, but if you've got current flowing through the ground path there for some unknown reason, it seems like that would help. I've had great success with:
-isolating the input jack from the chassis and instead grounding at the same point as 1M grid leak and v1 cathode resistor
-using shielded wire from input jack tip to v1 grid
-adding 10n cap at the input jack from jack ground to chassis to shunt AC interference but prevent a DC connection
-You might also want to consider adding an input decoupling cap between input jack tip and v1 grid stopper if you don't have one, although that might be considered putting a band-aid on the problem... but if it works...

Re low hum: +1 on elevating the heaters. That has worked great for me, and there is virtually no down side to do it, to my knowledge. Can anyone confirm or deny the lack of a downside to that?

Can any more knowledgeable folks step in to confirm and/or disagree with these suggestions, at least for my own edification if no one else's? If I'm saying dumb things I want to know. 

[fdesalvo]

I used my iphone haha – thank you.

I do have an insulating washer, but haven’t used it.  Ultimately, the preamp side of the ground bus (cathodes, PI/V1 filters, etc) terminates at the ground lug of the input jack, so I’m not sure that would help!  I have also inspected the mechanical bits of the input jack and it’s working perfectly.

I have verified continuity to ground throughout the amp, as well, and have shielded cable runs for input and volume.

I haven’t considered the caps at the input yet, but am trying to avoid that.

I’m really appreciative of you guys and know we already have some of the biggest guns on the forum on this thread. 

Man, your pics are great - love it. Not to thread hijack, but what are you shooting with?

[insert standard disclaimer here about how I am a n00b]
Re touching strings buzz issue:
I haven't seen anyone suggest isolating the input jack from the chassis yet, but if you've got current flowing through the ground path there for some unknown reason, it seems like that would help. I've had great success with:
-isolating the input jack from the chassis and instead grounding at the same point as 1M grid leak and v1 cathode resistor
-using shielded wire from input jack tip to v1 grid
-adding 10n cap at the input jack from jack ground to chassis to shunt AC interference but prevent a DC connection
-You might also want to consider adding an input decoupling cap between input jack tip and v1 grid stopper if you don't have one, although that might be considered putting a band-aid on the problem... but if it works...

Re low hum: +1 on elevating the heaters. That has worked great for me, and there is virtually no down side to do it, to my knowledge. Can anyone confirm or deny the lack of a downside to that?

Can any more knowledgeable folks step in to confirm and/or disagree with these suggestions, at least for my own edification if no one else's? If I'm saying dumb things I want to know. 

[thelonious]

Ha! I'm consistently surprised at how good the iphone's camera is, even in low light. Totally impressive for their size.

Don't blame you for trying to avoid another cap. Less stuff to color the tone...

Will be watching this thread with interest to see what happens!

[fdesalvo]

Haha, I can tell you exactly what's going to happen...someone will say, "Oh, you forgot to.." 

Ha! I'm consistently surprised at how good the iphone's camera is, even in low light. Totally impressive for their size.

Don't blame you for trying to avoid another cap. Less stuff to color the tone...

Will be watching this thread with interest to see what happens!

[fdesalvo]

I'm going to look at my guitar again - even though it doesn't misbehave through my Mesa.

"Once one realizes that they are not grounding the strings when they touch them, one can begin to understand the noise problem better.  Now one can see why the noise getting louder as one touches the strings is indicative of either a missing or broken string ground wire or of the wires to the output jack being reversed.  (With reversed output wires, touching the strings is exactly like touching the tip of the plug in the experiment above.)"

http://www.guitarnuts.com/technical/noisebucket.php

[stratele52]

"  I've verified grounds with my meter, .......

------fdesalvo
_______________________________________________________________
Sorry but testing with a meter is not a proof to be sure. Ohmeter work at very very small voltage and  current.
Your meter could test good ground circuit but not for the amp can work properly .
You have to look with your eyes to be sure. Check all your wiring.

The only  sure test  with an ohmeter is when it said "open" or no resistor. And sometimes.... is false
I have some experience with  .

The real good continuity tester is call a MEGER, and used by electrical contractor.
_______________________________________________________________
You probably have many problem. Like bad ground , bad wirning dress , and some too long unshieded wires to tube's grid........Hard to tell without seeing amp.

Show us some close up of all your amp, we'll see .

 

[fdesalvo]

  I just meant I verified that my grounds are grounded hehe

[fdesalvo]

Guitar was at fault.  Tech reversed ground and signal wires!  Thank you to everyone who lost hair on this one.  All I have remaining is a little bit of low level hummmmm which I will research and sort out. 

[Willabe]

Nice. Good job.       

[fdesalvo]

Don't you look at me like that. I feel like I was just there when it happened haha. Learned so much, though. This also explains the "microphony" I thought my boogie was giving me at stage volume.

Sweet mercy this amp sounds like a thick blackface with loads of sparkle.  There's almost zero hiss or hum even at 100% volume.  Unbelievable.

[Ed_Chambley]

Great news.  Blackface is hard to beat.  I am glad you like it.  It looks as if it will last for years to come.  Great work.

[TIMBO]

 

[fdesalvo]

Seriously grateful - thanks so much, guys. 

[stratele52]

It look like you have a ground missing at inputs jacks or close .

I am not at all surprised like I wrote june the 10 th, but disappointed that you test an amp without being certain that your guitar is in good working order. By the way, changing guitar tech that it 's really incompetent, reversing two wire, a beginner would not do that.

[fdesalvo]

I was the kid that had to learn not to touch the stove by burning his hand

Anyway, the guitar has been that was for 2 years and presented no symptoms with the 4 amps that have come and gone since. Lesson learned for certain.

It look like you have a ground missing at inputs jacks or close .

I am not at all surprised like I wrote june the 10 th, but disappointed that you test an amp without being certain that your guitar is in good working order. By the way, changing guitar tech that it 's really incompetent, reversing two wire, a beginner would not do that.

[stratele52]

Anyway, the guitar has been that was for 2 years and presented no symptoms with the 4 amps that have come and gone since. Lesson learned for certain.

Excuse me fdesalvo, so I talked too fast. I thought you were careless with your guitar. But if it was like that for two years, there was all the reason to believe that she was not responsible of the noise in your amp.

[fdesalvo]

No worries, man!  I didn't think u meant to attack me.

Anyway, the guitar has been that was for 2 years and presented no symptoms with the 4 amps that have come and gone since. Lesson learned for certain.

Excuse me fdesalvo, so I talked too fast. I thought you were careless with your guitar. But if it was like that for two years, there was all the reason to believe that she was not responsible of the noise in your amp.