It's like the screw on a carburetor. The instructions say "2 turns", you start and warm the engine, then turn back and forth for best idle. May be 1.4 turns, may be 2.6 turns.... the '2 turns' is just a starting point.
Or:
You want to wash your dog with the garden hose. There's a handle on the spigot (valve) which adjusts water flow.
Voltage is like "half turn". It's a setting on something that controls the current, not the actual current.
But what you really want is a ceratin water-current at the end of the hose. Enough water to dig into the fur. Not so much current that the dog is blown away.
> -37 volts or even 57 volts
Even using the same spigot, on different water pressure, I would need different "turns" to get the right water current for my dog. If I had 60psi, I might only need 0.37 of a turn. With my 30psi I need more like 0.57 turns to get the same current.
When biasing a tube, you want to know the *current*.
You need an *estimate* of the voltage to design your bias supply. If a tube needs -12V, it might be silly to build a 100V bias supply. OTOH if the tube needs -85V (some do!), then a 50V bias supply is not going to do the job.
Some tricks:
You want to be able to "cut-off" the tube, at least for initial smoke-test.
You want to be able to set the tube "half on" for a good rich bias.
The "cut-off" is nominally the Screen voltage divided by Mu(g2). For most common audio power tubes, Mu(g2) is 10. EL84 is 18.
"Half on" is about half that. (0.6 may be a better approximation.)
So a mild 6V6 at 250V (which is hardly worth fix-bias):
250V/10 = 25 V, the most you could need to stay cold.
25 * 0.5 is 12.5V; 25V * 0.6 is 15V; this will be a good minimum voltage (hot tube) bias.