My personal opinion is that it is "over built", in the sense of "10 pounds of sausage in a 5 pound bag". Actually most of the chassis is quite clear and neat, but that front panel... 
Thank you for recognizing all this can in fact fit in here. It is, after all, the biggest chassis that Dirty Dawg Amps makes. Being that it's all clear and concise, but just the front panel is confusing, well, I'll just thank you at the moment. I'll explain below!
I would get lost with all the knobs or controls. At one time i was into building amps with all kinds of bells and whistles.
At the present time for me a simple schematic and layout with little insertion loss is what i like best.
Boy and how. I agree! I mentioned in the beginning that this started out as a simple one channel PREAMP. How did it end up to be this thing?? Well, months and months of education, trial and error, and he thought I was ready for such a challenge. Sir, I promise you, this thing is a go. Have you any direction as to what is failing in my amp?
Now, I will address the pile of chickenheads on the face.
Has anyone had to work front of house at just about any kind of event? You have a mic, a board, some outboard gear, a power amp and speakers. (The typical scenario anyway)
You have to set the mic gain on the mixer just so, so that you're under clipping, usually, so you can set the mixers fader at unity without having to memorize about 10 tracks of where everything wants to be. Then there are aux sends, don't over-feed them either!
Weather your outboards are getting fed with the aux's or the main outs, no difference for this, it would get too technical with all of the sub out possibilities and everything.
Just picture it a linear venture from mic to speaker.If you have a return signal, or if your outboard effects have a send, you have to watch those also, again, to avoid clipping, or any other kind of undesirables. Within just this small set of equipments, you can greatly affect the tonal quality of what gets delivered to the power amp. Don't forget, you cant have THAT set too high or you'll overpower the speakers, or if they're set too low you'll be trying to pound your signal into them from the board and that wont sound too pretty either.
Here it is;
Gain staging. It's all about how you set the gain from one stage to another. If I want to hear the first tube pound the proverbial snot out of the preceding stages, I'll dime that pot. But I don't, so I don't do that. Next in line is how much do I want out of that first tone net? Do I even want the first tone net? I usually do, but there's a simple switch for yes or no, and accompanying pots because of load differences.
The more I increase the first input pot, directly influences how much of the tone net I will hear in the end. (If it's engaged, or it's just straight gain/volume) next is how I want that 2 stage pile to affect the rest of the mess. Next up, depending on which channel, is an optional thing. (Either the "more" on channel 1 which is just more gain, or the "Contort" on channel 2 which is a stage w/ contour really) You can include it, play with its tonalities, or ignore it.
THEN, there is the, "how much do you want to let that thing in..." Pot. It's the end, you can EQ that too, or not. Up to you. In the end, the switches you flip, determine the number of pots you have to play with.
This amp is an almost limitless tone machine. It's actually very simple. BUT, remember, I just asked for a preamp.
The more you play with this amp, the more and more easy it is to understand. It's really not as crazy as it looks. A lot of the pots are there for when you want them. Or, they can be all there at the same time. Up to you.
Topic: Please help with 2ch 50w build - Schematic supplied (Read 22586 times)