The "315V" is the max you should see on a plain-old voltmeter connected plate to cathode.
This is a wear-out rating. Prolonged operation at a steady higher voltage will shorten tube life.
You can "always" peak near twice that voltage, as long as you also dip near zero voltage.
The tube maker KNOWS (knew?) that power tubes WILL swing higher AND lower. In audio the highs and lows cancel-- the plate-cathode voltage is still on-average 315V. Tube life is hardly affected.
So YES. You feed 300V, swing up/down to 500V and 100V about equally, it's all good.
In non-audio narrow-pulse applications, you could feed 315V through a coil, pull-down to 115V 99% of the time, then kick-up to 20,115V 1% of the time. The average is still 315V. However 20KV will jump all over an Octal base/socket. If not, the back-scatter of 20KV electrons and ions will bombard the cathode and ruin it. Except I bet that 20,000V would just arc-across the internal dimensions of a 6K6. To keep you away from all these problems, they say 1,200V at V-scan duty.
FWIW, the "315V" is a commercial spec and may not be technically precise. 6F6 is for good home radios. Since electrolytic caps only go 450V, and vacuum rectifiers sag, and field-coils were common when 6F6 was new, there was _no_ good reason to claim any higher voltage. This also allowed the makers to use the cheap plate-stuff if they wished. It is not often worth stocking very-cheap plate-stuff, so no doubt many tubes will stand more than rated. Also differences in what "good life" is. A housewife or bar might run the radio 4,000 hours a year. A weekend musician may run the tube only 1,000 hours a year. The domestic user whines about taking the radio to the repair shop every few years. The musician, not so often, and he soon learns to DIY tube replacements.