Vertical 2x12 slant cab size

[TIMBO]

Looking to build and just need some dimension's. Thanks

[SILVERGUN]

I drew these up quick for you...
I've had these cabinets for years and have always liked the portability....bottom is sealed and top has a removable back panel

Let me know if you need any more detail

[TIMBO]

Thanks SG, I looked at a few on the net Mesa,Dr Z and are all in the ballpark, the only difference is 24" across the front. I thinking that I might go with the extra 4" cause I a bit worried that it might fall over with the weight of the head on top also, the head cab is 22" long.

Is there any pros/ cons with having the separate sealed/oped chambers????

I was just going with a sealed back. Thanks 

[SILVERGUN]

Is there any pros/ cons with having the separate sealed/oped chambers????
I was just going with a sealed back. Thanks 

Well,,,, in my opinion, it's worth doing because it's a fairly easy build, and it gives you the option of a mix of open and/or closed back...

There are guys who have much stronger opinions about what you might hear in open vs. closed.....I'm not sure my ears are good enough to care that much anymore

[TIMBO]

Thanks Guys, From what I can find, SG has hit the mark. The cab with a dividing shelf so that the bottom can be sealed and the top with a removable panel. To make it easier I put that removable panel on a hinge so that it can be open or closed 

[shortfuse]

Check out this site he has several different sizes and options
http://www.trmguitarcabs.com/

[TIMBO]

Good stuff 

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Needed to shed a couple of Christmas lbs, so I got stuck into this project. I also thought I might show everyone how I make my CABS.

Being a carpenter by trade one would think that I would have plenty of the mod cons, but over the years these have been lost, borrowed, broken or I just haven't had one. I don't do much carpentry these days, mainly formwork and concreting.

Anyway, the box is 3/4" pine structural grade ply (fairly cheap) this I cut out using a power saw. Two sides were cut then tacked together to cut the slant at the top. Then top and bottom were cut to size.
As you can see in the pic there is NO fancy joints just a good old butt joint fixed together with some steel dowels and PVA wood glue.
I used a electric planner to chamfer the edges all-round this makes it a bit quicker, then i round the edges with a hand plane or block plane but if you don't have a electric planner it just takes a bit longer to do. This box took about half an hour to do, three hours tops. The expensive black plastic gauge is set to the radius of the metal corners I use.
The nail heads punched with a 3" nail and filled,a good old sand and the box is ready for TOLEX 
   

[TIMBO]

more 

[SILVERGUN]

Nice work Timbo!
 

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Tolex is done. Not my most favourite job but I had the whole day without any interruptions 

[TIMBO]

A bit more progress..............

[Willabe]

Timbo that cab looks great!


           Brad     

[shortfuse]

Timbo
Looking good and great progress.  That's a lot of work in a short amount of time for a personal project.

[SILVERGUN]

Lookin good....

Ever heard of Beam Blockers Timbo?.....the older I get, the more I'm convinced that I need these 

http://www.webervst.com/blocker.html

[Ritchie200]

Wow!  Timbo, you don't waste any time!  That looks fantastic!

Ok, I am looking out through those slats and I am seeing lots of green.  I look out through my CLOSED windows to snow and -1 degrees on the thermometer.  Where are you located?  I want to move!

Jim

[Ritchie200]

Ooops, sorry Brisbane.  Come July I would probably want to move back here!  Just to let you know, I will miss Mark Weber - the definition of class act.

Jim

[TIMBO]

Hey Ritchie, I need to have it done by next weekend, ready for a gig. The speakers are the two MODS from here  http://www.el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=14563.0 It was decided that two speakers were more than adequate.

I'm not sure you want to be in Brisbane at the moment the temp just hit 95 degrees and the humidity is terrible and it is not really that green cause we haven't had any good rain for awhile and the sun has dried up everything.

[TIMBO]

SG , I checked out the demo, there could be something in it. I find that when I'm standing in front of the speaker, to the left and to the right my playing still sounds CRAP. Is this the MAGIC MOJO that will make me sound BETTER.       

[SILVERGUN]

 

I cant say 'cause I haven't tried them myself yet,,,,but I have always been concerned about the couple people standing in the front who were getting their hair blown back by my CRAP......

If they don't mind our CRAP, then why should we?   

On the other hand......if it's good enough for Stevie Ray,,,it's got my interest 

[Willabe]

If they don't mind our CRAP, then why should we?  

Because it's about getting a much more even sound fill in the room, both for the crowd and for the player.

That way you can hear yourself the same standing anywhere on stage as opposed to real bright in 1 and only 1 spot on stage and as you move away from that spot your sound, ie, treble/bass balance changes more and more as you move away from the brightest spot on stage.

And the crowd will hear a much more even sound from many more to most seats in the room.

I used to sit in the very back of the small (~125/150 max) blues club I used to hang out at where it had the most balanced sound as did most all of the other players did too all the time.

If your making your own speaker baffle then you can leave a center strip of wood, ~ 1/2" to 1" wide in the center of the speaker cut out. KOC said it's best to have it vertical not horizontal.

BTW SG, this would/should be very helpful to you when your tweaking an amp circuit with your breadboard having your test speaker cab up close to you. Move off center access from the speaker and the balance changes, stay on center and it's at it's brightest.

So which do you tweak for? Soften the bright highs for hearing on center or brighten the dull/dark sound for listening of center access?    

Think about a recording studio/mix down studio it's very important where the monitor/mix down speakers are with respect to the person(s) working the board, even with near field speakers. 

        
            Brad    

[Ritchie200]

All that can be fixed with louder.  You can calm a out of hand drummer just by angling a cabinet at him.  You can totally annoy a self absorbed keyboard player with more air moving in your speaker cabinet than his.  And besides, ALL guitar sounds better louder!

Jim

[TIMBO]

So Jim, Does louder come in a tin or squeeze bottle...

[Ritchie200]

It comes in an ointment, but I'm not sure it will work for you.  I don't make rash promises....


I'll be here all week, please tip the waitresses!

Jim

[Willabe]

It comes in an ointment, but I'm not sure it will work for you.  I don't make rash promises....
I'll be here all week, please tip the waitresses!

         

[TIMBO]

OK guys, this project is just about done, all is left is the sound test. 

DID someone mention BEAM BLOCKERS. OK SG a pair of homemade blockers are installed so we'll put them to the test.

[TIMBO]

more.....

It would look much better with some white piping around the grill but there was none available at the time I bought the grill cloth so hopefully i'll get some soon. Thanks

[SILVERGUN]

Tim---boooooooooooooooow!
That thing looks awesome man...
Love the homemeade beam blockers  


BTW SG, this would/should be very helpful to you when your tweaking an amp circuit with your breadboard having your test speaker cab up close to you. Move off center access from the speaker and the balance changes, stay on center and it's at it's brightest.
I agree 100%....just haven't gotten around to tryin em out yet

Lookin forward to Timbo's thoughts on the "effect"

[Stankfut]

How do you make the angled grill cloth frame? Also, how do you attach it to the cab? Most of the amps I have have the grill cloth attached directly to the baffle. I made a frame for my 5E3, but I think it has a slight rattle when cranked.

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, WELL...................

SG's gets the top prise ( a tube of LOUD  ) for the gadget of the year. This CAB is fantastic. I does all levels of guitar with super cleans and typical marshall grind.

We found that with the flap down gave it the best response of all with tight bass and sparkling high,no flabbiness
Flap up sounds just as good just a bit more bass

The speakers
http://www.jensentone.com/speaker/mod_12_50

The beam blockers, what can I say....... they appear to work superbly although they were already fixed in place but you could hear continuity of sound from all angles, so I guess this means they work  SG....

Stankfut, It is a fairly easy task,as luck would have it this project has a twin that I started at the same time.There has been a delay with the speakers, so I haven't cut the holes in the baffle for them.

I'll take some pics as it will be easier to follow. 

[TIMBO]

Just some more pics.............

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, I'm glad that this project has been helpful.

The grill frame is fairly simple to build......
When I build these cab I find that mounting the baffle back from the front edge about 30mm allows for the thickness of the grill frame (20mm).
Using dressed pine (40x20mm) is strong enough to take the tension of the stretched grill cloth also plenty of width to fix onto baffle.
With a 2mm nail to create a gap between the frame and cab cut the pine for the sides and then the ones in between.
Cutting squares from a manilla folder is a great way to reinforce the corners, this also helps when gluing the butt joint (the frame doesn't stick to the cab)
Some staples helps to hold the timbers in place and another piece of the manilla folder can be glued on the top.
When glue has dried simply remove the nails and the frame will come out.
With the frame out you may want to drill and dowel the corners once the glued joints have dried.

To fix the frame in place eight holes are drilled through the baffle and the frame is screwed in place.
EASY 
W

[TIMBO]

Part 2

[Stankfut]

Thanks for the pics! I would have never thought of using the cab for a "clamp." Looking forward to building something similar soon

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, just put the finishing touches on the second cab. This one I've got a pair of vintage Aussie made VASE/ETONE speakers and they sound very SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEET. 

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Whit the grill frame in place I felt it needed a little dressing up, so I added some piping around it.

[Ritchie200]

That is cool!  It will look excellent with your head.

Jim

[SILVERGUN]

That is cool!  It will look excellent with your head.

Well Timbo, I think it already looks excellent.....without the head.....

Some guys just always find stuff to criticize 

[Ritchie200]

Ok FINE!  I think it will look good dropped on SG's HEAD!

Jim

[Willabe]

Ok FINE!  I think it will look good dropped on SG's HEAD!

Probable hurt less than becoming a nipster guy.           


          Brad     

[TIMBO]

With my glued butt joint fixed together with steel dowels I sure it will take any that you throw at it even an SG. The beam blockers have a TWOFA, blocking hi frequencies and blocking airborne guitars 

[Willabe]

Your a good Aussi Timbo.


           Brad     

[jojokeo]

I drew these up quick for you...
I've had these cabinets for years and have always liked the portability....bottom is sealed and top has a removable back panel

Let me know if you need any more detail

SG - do you like that Peavey Cab? What kind of wood is it made of (cab part & baffle part)? Would you load a brighter speaker on the bottom or top?
Thanks, jojo

[SILVERGUN]

SG - do you like that Peavey Cab? What kind of wood is it made of (cab part & baffle part)? Would you load a brighter speaker on the bottom or top?
Thanks, jojo

Yeah, I do jojo...
I hated them for years because they had the wrong speakers in them, and just sounded dead (G12-85)
I always ran the top closed back, but recently I've come to appreciate the top open.......

I've been playing around a lot with speakers recently, and the best combo I have come across has been a G12H-30 top/open with a G12K-100 on the bottom/closed
The 12H-30 gives a nice gritty, bright, biting Jimmy Page kinda breakup and the 12K-100 just gives rock solid, crushing mid/bass response

I thought I could do better, but so far that's been the winner for hard/classic rock.
I tried G12-Century Vintage and Vintage 30 and G12T-75 in all combinations and positions.
If I was trying to do a lighter weight 2x12, I would settle for the Century Vintage (neodymium) in one of the positions

I'll have to check the wood type, cause I've never looked that close...

[jojokeo]

Is it recommended to have the brightest one in the top position? Not sure if it makes sense cause that beam will be hitting right at my big dome of a head. Which G12H-30 are you talking about? I have the way Celestion labels their speakers because of the repeating names! Either way I have the Anniv., greenback, V-30, and Heritage models and an older G12K-100 but all are only in 8ohm and I want the cab to be 8ohm.
So in 16ohm I have a couple G12M 20watt Heritages, 30w Black back 75H Scumbacks, Reg 30w 75H w/ large dust cover Scumbacks, and one each of the Scumback paper voice coil 75M and 75H models to choose from for this cab. I'm intially thinking of using the last two for this cab and putting the 75M on top and the 75H on bottom so the shrillness doesn't go right at my head. Does this seem like the way to go to you? Oh, I'm going to be using this cab for a number of various heads/amps, not always for a Marshall crunch high gainer. Lastly, the other way to go would be a couple Vintage 30s for a general go-to type cab for anything? (But, I really love those paper voice coils...so I will try them first)
Thanks for your help-

[SILVERGUN]

Is it recommended to have the brightest one in the top position? Not sure if it makes sense cause that beam will be hitting right at my big dome of a head. Which G12H-30 are you talking about? I have the way Celestion labels their speakers because of the repeating names! Either way I have the Anniv., greenback, V-30, and Heritage models and an older G12K-100 but all are only in 8ohm and I want the cab to be 8ohm.
So in 16ohm I have a couple G12M 20watt Heritages, 30w Black back 75H Scumbacks, Reg 30w 75H w/ large dust cover Scumbacks, and one each of the Scumback paper voice coil 75M and 75H models to choose from for this cab. I'm intially thinking of using the last two for this cab and putting the 75M on top and the 75H on bottom so the shrillness doesn't go right at my head. Does this seem like the way to go to you?

Well, I don't know what's recommended, but for me it's the opposite....
The brightness of my G12H-30 anniversary cuts right through my hearing loss  , so I like that on top/open back....my biggest concern would be "which one gets mic'd?"
Usually it's the one on the bottom,,,so even though I like the G12K-100 in the bottom,,, I'm not sure I would like that if I was hearing it mic'd up..

One "trick" you could try would be to mix impedances.....the 8 ohm speaker would get 33% of the power and the 16 ohm'r would get 66% (***approx. numbers)
When I tried that, the static resistance of the cab read 10 ohms, so I put it on the 8 ohm OT tap, and it sounded good
(***I forget where I read that)
Obviously, that will add a variable to every amp/ cab combination you try....some will handle it better than others

[jojokeo]

Well, I don't know what's recommended, but for me it's the opposite....

My bad, I should've said "what do YOU recommend" or "in your experience"
 
I also meant to say I *hate the way Celestion labels their speakers - way too repetitive which makes it confusing to distinguish them properly when discussing them as most people don't get descriptive enough. Just saying "greenback" can mean too many models and that's not even including what year when it was made. My main pet peave with them but if I put them in a "peavey"...? 
 
Do you get any sense of "boxiness" with this cab? Fender put house insulation in their cabs I think to eliminate this effect right? Of course I'm implying if/when you run it completely closed. There's a lot of empty space inside both sections.

[jojokeo]

With my glued butt joint fixed together with steel dowels I sure it will take any that you throw at it even an SG. The beam blockers have a TWOFA, blocking hi frequencies and blocking airborne guitars 

Timbo - you got anything to add or advice to add for me from above comments?

[SILVERGUN]

Do you get any sense of "boxiness" with this cab? Fender put house insulation in their cabs I think to eliminate this effect right? Of course I'm implying if/when you run it completely closed. There's a lot of empty space inside both sections.

Maybe, yeah,,,when both halves are closed...

And that might have been part of what I didn't like about it in the past....the G12-85s were "flat" and the cab gets a little boxy when all closed up

I used to use these as side fills for "the tone zone", because the top speaker pointed up at me...
I realize now that my stage volume was WAY too loud

[jojokeo]

I guess I'll find out for myself soon.