Most guys who have been playing a while expect a standby switch. And again in this thread, a person stated Leo Fender would not have used one because he was cheap. What crap! Airline amps were cheap, Fender amps traveled the world and back and if you are lucky you may have one.
A cheapass buys his wife used tires! I can assure you as busy as Leo Fender was building a manufacturing company, he certainly did not have time to run around California changing his wife's flat tires. In addition, the switches were quite nice. I wish someone would provide some proof as to where Fender cut corners while under Leo Fenders Ownership.
Now be truthfull here. Say you won a contest and got to choose between a handwired Fender Deluxe Reverb or a Bugera V22 INFINIUM? The Bugera has more features and are said to have a good build quality. Today, supposed high quality Botique amps actually brag about using the SAME High Quality Components. Some even brag that cloth covered wire and Carbon Comp resistors are the only way to go. Just like a Swart Atomic Jr., which is a Champ with a tone control and no transformer reverb for $1300.
I own a 1964 Fender Super Reverb, now that is at least 53 years. I have not replaced a single component. Yes, it has a 2 prong cord and voltage to it is regulated to 117vac. It has never been anywhere except inside my house and my Fathers house. It gets about an hour workout every 2 weeks. The standby switch has never been down, only the AC switch is used.
My early 62 Bassman standby switch is about to go. They just do not like DC. Now I need to find an old USA Carling switch. I have one somewhere.
I do not ever switch to standby. All, every single amp I have, the DC switch is on all the time. I know some feel leaving an amp hot keeps tonal quality, but I have checked this. My slowest amp to reach full power is a Princeton Reverb Build when I have a GZ34 in it. This one takes almost 2 seconds longer for a total of 9 seconds.
I did this because of this topic all over the place. I even went as far as flipping the switch, pick up the guitar and put the strap over my head. Mind you, I still have not checked tuning, which all players should. The amp is ready even if the guitar is not. Amps also have volume controls which are mute, but if you are too drunk to remember the volume you were playing, you were already too loud.
So when the guy called to come to look/buy my Twin, I asked if he was wanting it to have a loop. Twins are great country amps and a slapback is really nice. He said no, he was looking for a regular Twin. I said come on over, I got what you want. Pulled the loop and put the switches back.
My point is I simply put one in and I do this because everyone who knows you do not need one, still doesn't mind one being there. You can bet if they do know they will inform you it is not necessary. Whatever! If they do not know and visited similar music stores as I have, usually to test an amp the Owner or Employee will get the amp out, and tell you about warming it up properly. I remember being told 30 seconds by the owner of the music store nearest my home.
Why should I believe some old electronics nutbag? Certainly, a music store owner knows and everyone seems to agree.
So after someone has been doing this, thinking it is the correct thing to do for the last 20 years, the last thing one person can con them of is the switch is not needed. That is one no vote to 20 years experience and the potential buyer will think you are crazy. After all, it has been working like this for 20 years and at least 1,000 other players disagree.
I just put in a switch because the Parker Fly didn't go over very well. Players still prefer wood guitars and standby switches, however, you could wire the on the lamp to the main switch and only the lamp and everything else on the standby. The only problem here is the amp would work without the light being on and you know good and well that little jewel lamp is where the mojo lives.