Any interest in cheap head cabs for new Stout chassis?

[SILVERGUN]

I just whipped up a couple of head cabinets for Doug's new Stout chassis. The outside dimensions are approx. 16"W x 8.5"H x 9.25"D
It felt good to be covered in saw dust again, so I figured I'd make an offer and see if there is any interest from you guys who are buying the new chassis, but don't have the means to create your own head cab.

I will make a limited run of these, based off of how many of you guys let me know that you would want one.
I currently have 4 boxes built, and I would describe them as being "factory seconds"...meaning not perfect.
I will round over the edges and rough sand down to 220 grit.
They are made of solid, void - free pine, with dovetail joints. The attached pic is of a cab that I had produced previously.
As soon as I get one of the current cabs rounded over and sanded I'll post a new pic so you can get an idea of the actual size.

I will do these for $60 total --- $50 each plus $10 shipping (to the great 48).

If there is no interest then I will have to buy 3 more Stout chassis, so this is a win-win for Doug. 
If I have to give him a freebie to allow the advertisement, then so be it.
Let me know right here on this thread if you are interested so we can keep a running total.
If you guys twist my arm I may spit out some matching 1x12 cabs. (16"x16"x 9.25)

I'm not trying to get rich,,,, just providing a low-cost solution while I've got all the tools out and setup.
Whataya think?

[tubenit]

Very nicely done!  Very good looking cab.

Knowing the amount of work going into making a cab head like that (with dovetails), you're offering folks quite a good deal!

With respect, Tubenit

[SILVERGUN]

Thank you sir...
That pic is 1 of the 2 I built my first time around (2 years ago) that was meant for the T-Wreck.
This time through I've made it a point to get the grain lined up better so it has a wraparound look,,,so if anyone wants to just stain it, it'll look good.

The 8' boards I'm using are costing me $25 each and I can get exactly 2 heads out of each board....any bigger and it would mess up the math.
As is, they are just tall enough to get EL34s in and out of the sockets.

So, $12.50 material cost and $37.50 labor....each head takes about an hour and a half, so I'm working for about $25/hour. I'm ok with that for a one time deal. I'm hoping that it'll help sell some chassis.
As sluckey calls it, it's good saw dust therapy....good for the soul.
Chassis plus head cab for about 100 bucks....not bad.

[DummyLoad]

awesome deal.


would you be willing to add a front panel with the cutout for the chassis? of course, for more $$...   


--pete

[SILVERGUN]

would you be willing to add a front panel with the cutout for the chassis? of course, for more $$...   

Yeah...I figured that was gonna come up.
It would sure make 'em more sellable...But I'm afraid that the additional time/labor is gonna put me up there closer to the ones on Ebay.

I'm just gonna have to figure out how to do it.
I'm definitely no skilled cabinet maker, so there will be a learning curve involved.   

Rectangles, I got....so I'm half the way there. 

[sean_thornton]

If you have a router (i am assuming you used one for the dovetails) you could make a template out of mdf to route out a front panel. I do this and it only takes a couple of minutes to make a front panel. I keep a second router in a routing table and put my roundover bit in that. You could also make a brace for the rear very cheaply. only thing left would be cleats (1/2" x 1/2"). The extra material cost would be minimal.
Your dovetails look really clean, you did a good job on those.

[kagliostro]

A pair of very simple solutions

one is used by our friend Darryl

Franco

[SILVERGUN]

If you have a router (i am assuming you used one for the dovetails) you could make a template out of mdf to route out a front panel. I do this and it only takes a couple of minutes to make a front panel. I keep a second router in a routing table and put my roundover bit in that. You could also make a brace for the rear very cheaply. only thing left would be cleats (1/2" x 1/2"). The extra material cost would be minimal.
Your dovetails look really clean, you did a good job on those.

Ahhh...yes, of course... A TEMPLATE!

That should be pretty painless once I perfect it.....I'll actually start working on that tonight.
Thanks for chiming in Sean.....sometimes the obvious isn't obvious.

THANKS for those examples Franco!....something like that shouldn't be too difficult

[kagliostro]

I think that the cab in the first image has a more easy to be build front (don't care of the hole on the top)

it is done with a thin piece of wood and didn't require the use of router and/or sandpaper

Ciao

Franco

[Ken Moon]

The removable front panel like on the Pearson amp would be better for the Stout chassis, since the tubes are in the front.

If the front panel cut-out was rounded over it would be even nicer, especially if you want to put tolex on it.

This is something I was hoping somebody would take on - I will buy at least one a month if you could hold the price down to $75 shipped, including the front panel. 

Once again, great idea and thanks 

[SILVERGUN]

The removable front panel like on the Pearson amp would be better for the Stout chassis, since the tubes are in the front.

If the front panel cut-out was rounded over it would be even nicer, especially if you want to put tolex on it.

This is something I was hoping somebody would take on - I will buy at least one a month if you could hold the price down to $75 shipped, including the front panel. 

Once again, great idea and thanks 

That all sounds do-able...
If nobody else commits we're good for 3 months, since I'll be keeping one for myself. 

Good thinking, making sure the front panel is removable....especially with the tight tolerance for taller output tube insertion / removal.

[jojokeo]

   Hi buddy ol' pal!!!

[eleventeen]

I have to say that the ValveTone cab-front appeals to me more. That thing looks like it was carved out of a single block of wood! Front held on with screws thru cleats on the inside of the cabinet. I guess the question is, with pine, can you get around those corners without grain tear-out?

[sluckey]

I guess the question is, with pine, can you get around those corners without grain tear-out?

You can if you route cross grain first and take about 3 passes to reach the final cut.

[SILVERGUN]

  Hi buddy ol' pal!!!

Welp jojo,,,you were definitely one of the guys I was thinking about when I got the idea.
At least one of the first batch has your name on it.
I know you bought a couple of those chassis....just didn't know if you did your own wood work.

I guess the question is, with pine, can you get around those corners without grain tear-out?

You can if you route cross grain first and take about 3 passes to reach the final cut.

Yeah...I probably won't be putting that kind of effort into these.
Unless we really raise the price. 
Even then...I don't think I posess that skill.
I do like the look just as much, if not more than the usual JTM style.

[mikhett]

I would buy one!

[SILVERGUN]

I would buy one!

Cool!...you're on the list.

The good news is...there will be face panels!
I stayed late after work tonight and got a template together and realized I was making it harder than it had to be.

I was gonna have to come up with something eventually for my own heads so I appreciate the kick in the pants from the boys.

Now I just gotta get some practice rounding the inside edges and I can get em rolling out the door.

[DummyLoad]

put me down,for two. :-)

--pete

[jojokeo]

Welp jojo,,,you were definitely one of the guys I was thinking about when I got the idea.
At least one of the first batch has your name on it.
I know you bought a couple of those chassis....just didn't know if you did your own wood work.

You the motha-freakin' man! I don't want to be greedy but I'll take two to go with my two chassis if it's not too much to ask? If not, that's okay I can wait too or whatever is easy on you. As you're finding out, you're chumming the waters when they're already full of shark. I can do woodwork very well and I actually really enjoy it but it's just the time right now that's got me under the gun. My next wood project lined up has to be a new stand for my reef tank or there will be repercussions. Thank you for lookin out and please watch those fingers!

[SILVERGUN]

put me down,for two. :-)

Schhwheeeat!


I'll offer a couple options and try to just cap it there:
A- Head cab with face panel cut to tight tolerance for no tolex, no piping = $75 shipped
B- Head cab with face panel cut to approx. 1/8" total side to side and top to bottom clearance for use with tolex / piping = $75 shipped
C- Head cab only with no front panel = $60 shipped

Let me know if you'll definitely be doing tolex so I won't spend too much time on finish work.

I would prefer to not see screws from the outside so I'll work on attaching the face with screws through the cleats from the inside.

[SILVERGUN]

You the motha-freakin' man! I don't want to be greedy but I'll take two to go with my two chassis if it's not too much to ask? If not, that's okay I can wait too or whatever is easy on you.

Allright...now were talkin!

I'll get the first 4 done soon and divide em up so the first responders get em first.

As soon as they are ready I'll get you guys to hit me in the Paypal account.
I was hoping to get this kind of response and just bang out a bunch while the table saw is hot.

First batch of 4 can be:
- DL -1
- Ken Moon -1
- Mikhett -1
- Jojo -1
If anyone drops out DL will get his second one first.

Just need you guys to specify option A, B, or C above. Not sure of a ship date yet but I'm pushing to get these done so I can move on to the next 4. I guess I'll go in groups of four for now and see how it goes so I don't get stuck with excess inventory.

[DummyLoad]

option A for me please . i despise covering good wood with plastic. ;-)


kindly ship both of mine together if you don't mind, so push jojo's pair out first if you're ok with that.



gracias!   


--pete

[SILVERGUN]

option A for me please . i despise covering good wood with plastic. ;-)

kindly ship both of mine together if you don't mind, so push jojo's pair out first if you're ok with that.

Si ...no problemo...and I couldn't agree more


I like the idea of taking my time with the option A boxes, so I appreciate the leeway.

How bout yours jojo?---to tolex or not to tolex, that is the question.

[SILVERGUN]

I feel the need to make a couple disclaimers and state a few facts.
- These are being sold as factory seconds so please expect a flaw or 5. If you receive one and cannot live with the quality just let me know and send it back and I'll refund the purchase price. Have low expectations and then be surprised that they actually look decent. If you let me know that you won't be covering yours in tolex, I will make it a point to pick you one (or more) of a higher cosmetic quality.

- I'll try to keep a running total and post approximate ship times, but please remember that I am just one guy with a wife and I like to watch hockey and play golf. Right now it's still in the 20s, 30's and 40's here, so no golf,,,and the good news for production is that it doesn't look like the Flyers are gonna make the playoffs, so that will allow for more box time.

-I am doing this as a favor to anyone who would like to take me up on it, just so that you don't have to make one yourself. This is not a money making proposition, and I reserve the right to pull the plug at any given time. So, if you're on the fence, please don't hesitate to order yours before I get sick of making them, or life throws me a slider. I can't see myself making anymore than 20 (?) of these, so please, get em while their hot.

- I am also doing this to try to spread some goodwill amongst men, and give my dad a reason to be proud of me. Part of my inspiration to get the blade spinning has come from watching and helping my dad through radiation and chemo in the last few months. He was always a terrible woodworker who never accommodated for the blade width, and would measure 10 times only to cut 4 or 5 bad pieces, and then changing the plan to accommodate whatever scrap he had left. He is amazed at my ability to build anything that doesn't lean to one side, and he's still trying to figure out why I would want to use dovetails when you could just use good ol nails. He's a great guy who did 30 some years with Conrail (started with Penn Central), and if I learned one thing from him it would be how not to do woodwork. 
I say he WAS a bad wood worker because he doesn't do it anymore. He IS still with us, and just starting to regain strength.
This is my own therapy.

- Right now I'm focused on just building one size cab and mass producing them. It's like making baked ziti. I never make just one tray.
It's makes way more sense to cut a bunch, then route a bunch, then glue a bunch,,etc., etc.
Yes, I am capable of making other sizes, but right now I'm trying to stay focused on the task at hand and bust out a couple batches to match the demand for the new chassis.

That's the truth, the whole truth and nothing but....
So just don't be a d!(% and we'll be cool.

[EL34]

That's cool
I would like to see one with the front panel installed

That front panel can be very thin, probably 1/4 inch thick
When you look down at the face panel, the panel is not obscuring any text

[SILVERGUN]

That's cool
I would like to see one with the front panel installed

That front panel can be very thin, probably 1/4 inch thick
When you look down at the face panel, the panel is not obscuring any text

Pics coming soon.
I'm gonna spend a little time tonight trying to get my round-over technique together.

Now that I know that there is interest in at least another batch of 4, I'll press on.

Thanks ALL!

[Willabe]

I usually use a round over bit that's half the radius of the stock to be rounded over.

If 1/2" stock I go with a 1/4" round over bit. You can use different sizes for different looks.


                  Brad     

[Ken Moon]

I can wait for the second batch, since the demand is so high. Whatever works best for you, I'm flexible, since this is for me.

I'll get one for now, in Option A, please. No tolex this time! If you make this an ongoing project, I'll get more later.

I've always wanted to have a natural wood head cab - I have some pieces of "select pine" from Lowe's, and I'll play around with a couple of stains and natural finishes while I wait.

Best wishes to your dad - I know from personal experience how hard chemo and radiation can be. Loving caregivers make all the difference, so bless you and your wife for sticking in there.

Peace, Ken

[jojokeo]

SG - Can you give a measurement of the cutout width and I'll know more about how many knobs, switches, (+jack & light) I can fit. I don't have a specifically designed circuit yet but this will give me a parameter to go by. I presume that the back will be left open or some form of simple "H" design maybe for that? On which design, I normally have everything covered but a natural stain/finish look could be nice and also easiest. Plus it'll wreak of custom personalization which can be a nice thing. I may want a speaker cab to match too but not necessary right away for sure. Thanks buddy for all you do 'round here.

[SILVERGUN]

SG - Can you give a measurement of the cutout width and I'll know more about how many knobs, switches, (+jack & light) I can fit. I don't have a specifically designed circuit yet but this will give me a parameter to go by. I presume that the back will be left open or some form of simple "H" design maybe for that? On which design, I normally have everything covered but a natural stain/finish look could be nice and also easiest. Plus it'll wreak of custom personalization which can be a nice thing. I may want a speaker cab to match too but not necessary right away for sure. Thanks buddy for all you do 'round here.

The front control cutout is gonna be right around 11 1/2" side to side.
The backs will be left open.
I agree about the natural / stain finish, and it just makes the finish work a little more involved, so if anyone is sure their gonna do tolex, I won't have to go as far.

Speaker cabs aren't out of the question, and again, catch me while I'm hot. 
I might be able to do those for $100 shipped.   

[sean_thornton]

Glad the template idea worked! Because i only use aluminum chassis' i use a router and templates on them too, i can cut out the hole for a fused IEC socket in about 20 seconds, no file work afterwards. Same for valve sockets, it works great.
You are doing a good job with those, and a huge favor for the forum, thanks for effort.

[tubenit]

I am also doing this to try to spread some goodwill amongst men, and give my dad a reason to be proud of me.

I think this is a very cool thing you are doing!  This is a truly remarkable gift and contribution to this amp building community and it's members.
 

These are being sold as factory seconds so please expect a flaw

To any of you who don't do woodworking .......... please note the disclaimer because as a woodworker myself, I have never done a woodworking project that did not have some flaw to it.

Silvergun will not make any real money on this given the amount of time involved to build one & low cost.  I sure hope you guys will recognize what a generous gesture this is.

Silvergun, THANKS for your admirable generousity and good will!      Best regards and with respect, Tubenit

[Ritchie200]

SG, you are a good man Charlie Brown.

AND, because of that - since your Broad Street Bullies did not hack their way in this season, you have my special permission to watch and root for the BLUES!

Jim

[terminalgs]

AND, because of that - since your Broad Street Bullies did not hack their way in this season, you have my special permission to watch and root for the BLUES!

go Caps!!

[SILVERGUN]

AND, because of that - since your Broad Street Bullies did not hack their way in this season, you have my special permission to watch and root for the BLUES!

go Caps!!

OK, that's enough of that....
Didn't I say something about being a d!(% above in the disclaimer section.
That pertained to ALL comments on this glorious thread of goodwill and brotherly love.
If your gonna bust em you're gonna have to BUY ONE....you too, term

I think this is a very cool thing you are doing!

Thanks again sir.
It just came to me one day when I was buying the wood I needed to make my own cab.
Why not make 2, or 4, or however many it takes to fill the demand that I pictured being real,, as a result of the attention that the new chassis was getting.
And then as I started cutting wood with the big back door open, and the sun was shining in, and it hit 40,,,I just thought "well, what else would I be doing right now?".... I told my wife, "it's what guys do....we build stuff"

The current demand has come at a rate that I can keep up with,,,so for now it's still fun and therapeutic for me.

And then last night, of course,,,,my finish sander blew apart after 10 years of service. 
 

[EL34]

Poplar may be nice also
It's easy to work with and looks good natural

Pine is cheaper though

If you make the front panel detachable it can be modded if the fit needs to be modded slightly

I can see me putting the front panel on my CNC router and making some sort of fancy breather hole design

[Ritchie200]

+1 on poplar.  I think it works and looks fantastic for a soft hardwood....something Ill never understand....

Jim

[EL34]

There you go talking about soft wood again 

[DummyLoad]

I can see me putting the front panel on my CNC router and making some sort of fancy breather hole design

likewise...     


--pete

[lego4040]

Great work Silvergun, I hope your Dad is doing well and feels better. Sorry about your sander, is it brushless motor or does the motor have brushes? I used to get all the carpenters tools on the job cause they couldn't be bothered with putting new ones in and keeping some damn good tools. If you do decide to make another size cabinet I will take you up on a option A. The AC-15 build I did here needs a home

[SILVERGUN]

Great work Silvergun, I hope your Dad is doing well and feels better. Sorry about your sander, is it brushless motor or does the motor have brushes? I used to get all the carpenters tools on the job cause they couldn't be bothered with putting new ones in and keeping some damn good tools. If you do decide to make another size cabinet I will take you up on a option A. The AC-15 build I did here needs a home

Thanks lego.
I would be happy to make you a custom size for the AC-15 head. That is a beautiful build and I would be proud to be a part of it.

Now that I see how easy this is, a different size will just be a little more expensive due to the fact that I won't be able to get 2 heads out of one board.
If you give me dimensions, I can give you a number. I can also adjust the faceplate and control cutout for a few more bucks as well.
Shouldn't be too bad.

[EL34]

Hey, get to work on ours first 

[SILVERGUN]

Poplar may be nice also
It's easy to work with and looks good natural

I was looking at the poplar on the wall in home depot.
Most of it had some ugly greenish streaking throughout. They have 1x10x8' for $37 each.

I've been to 3 local stores trying to sort through the pine boards for straightness and some handsome grain.
So far I've only been able to gather 1 or 2 acceptable boards from each store. Any cupping of the wood creates major headaches when trying to get the dovetails right.

I also wound up with some decent 1/2" birch plywood for the faceplates. I had to sort through a bunch of that to get the color shading to be close.
Still enjoying the work and making great progress. 6 boxes built, 4 smoothed and rounded over, and waiting for finish sander to come in.
Seems like 3 or 4 of them will meet my quality control for a stain / clear finish (option A).
I'm looking forward to this weekend to put a push on the faceplates and get a couple more boxes glued up.
 

[EL34]

That Greenish color is not a problem
I stain poplar and it comes out ok


Then clear coat with polyurethane

[SILVERGUN]

Hey, get to work on ours first 

Are you going with option "A" as well?
Want yours in poplar?

Option descriptions in Reply #19


For anyone:
I've also got one that I messed up one of the dovetail joints when I tried to recut it, and it wound up with a lot of filler. Luckily it already had some other flaws, so it's the ugly duckling of the bunch. Anyone for an option "C"? I'll throw in the face panel for the $60.

That one's a 'factory third'
Man,,, one false move with the router and DOH!....there's is no such thing as putting wood back.

[EL34]

Option A - No tolex for me
Pine or poplar is fine
Whatever you have on hand


Face panel can have tiny gap around edge for expansion

[tubenit]

I am not a big fan of poplar visually.  (I've taken out several 90+ ft tall poplars out of my back yard)

Having said that,  it is an excellent tone wood for guitar bodies and especially speaker cabs, IMO.

With respect, Tubenit

[SILVERGUN]

Face panel can have tiny gap around edge for expansion

Good call. I won't make em tight-tight.

[EL34]

I made a couple end tables several years ago using poplar


They came out looking ok

[lego4040]

Silvergun, my chassis is 21.5 inches in length by 6.5 by 2.5.  I would be interested in the cab when your ready and your stout cabs are fulfilled