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Hoffman Amps Forum image Author Topic: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar  (Read 32526 times)

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Offline tubenit

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Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« on: March 05, 2015, 10:10:03 am »
I ordered a semi-hollow body 335 type guitar kit.  Never built a guitar from a kit before so this will be a new experience.  I don't have high expectations of this.  I'm guessing this will be comparable to maybe an old Silvertone or Kay semi-hollow body from the 60's which can be a fun guitar.

The kit was pretty inexpensive, so I am anticipating "you get what you pay for" type quality.

Having said all that, ............. it was not until AFTER I ordered it that I saw that it comes with a 1&5/8" nut. I usually play a 1& 11/16 and even like a 1& 3/4". 

Anyone ever play a 1&5/8" nut width and like it OK?  I think maybe some of the Gibson Melody Makers had that?  So maybe it will be tolerable. 

I am planning on finding a way to have the neck be a bolt on instead of glued in.  That way if after a few months, I don't like it .......... I can just build a new neck for it from scratch.

With respect, Tubenit

« Last Edit: April 28, 2015, 07:58:35 am by tubenit »

Offline tubenit

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #1 on: March 05, 2015, 10:25:50 am »
Looks like some Music Man and G&L guitars have 1&5/8" nut

http://www.glguitars.com/instruments/USA/options/guitar.asp

http://www.music-man.com/instruments/guitars/axis.html

And Schecter guitars and some old Gibby SG's?

Tubenit

Offline Platefire

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2015, 11:09:38 am »
Smaller necks or narrower necks don't bother me so much because I have small hands--sometimes it makes it better for me. It's you large hand/long finger guys that have the wider fatter necks. So tubenit what is your hand situation?
On the right track now<><

Offline tubenit

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2015, 11:44:04 am »
I have hands more like a boxer then a guitarist unfortunately.  Wide hands with shorter fingers. Fingers aren't real  fat though.  Problem is I've inherited ALOT of arthritis in my hands.  I think maybe I am 2 yrs older then you are?

Best regards, Jeff

Offline Ed_Chambley

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2015, 12:00:07 pm »
I usually make a nut and widen it some on the 1-5/8 nuts.  Usually there is plenty of room to get s smidge more.  I think in the late 60, like 68 and or 69, Gibson made the 335 with a smaller nut width and it makes the guitars not as collectable for this reason.  I believe that says it all.

I prefer a wide nut myself when playing clean and finger style.  Wide open distorted rock, doesn't matter as I am barring most of the cords or only playing 3 of the notes.  in a 1 and 5/8 nut it is almost impossible for me to play a C chord in the first position cleanly.  I do not have those little Eric Johnson fingers.

Offline tubenit

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2015, 01:08:16 pm »
Ed,

Thanks for your thoughts and comments!  I appreciate hearing your perspective. 

I actually had not considered that there might be some room for a slightly wider nut?  I think I actually have a graphite blank nut for a Gibson at home?  I'll check and see about that.  I've been successful at making a good nut in the past on acoustics.   It would be encouraging to me if I can go from 1& 10/16 to 1 & 11/16.

Thanks!  Jeff

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2015, 01:35:07 pm »
Ed,

Thanks for your thoughts and comments!  I appreciate hearing your perspective. 

I actually had not considered that there might be some room for a slightly wider nut?  I think I actually have a graphite blank nut for a Gibson at home?  I'll check and see about that.  I've been successful at making a good nut in the past on acoustics.   It would be encouraging to me if I can go from 1& 10/16 to 1 & 11/16.

Thanks!  Jeff
Thanks for the kind words. 

Yes, I have used graphite, but on a Jazz box I believe I might use bone.  I began using corian a while back.  I have a sheet of the white corian and I just cut it on a table saw and sand it smooth.  I can hear a little difference, but not much.

I have a friend who is a Luthier (a well known one).  What he does is get the sample corian squares at Home Depot and cuts his nuts from them.  Actually kind of cool with the colors available, but the price is great as they will give you them if you ask.

Offline P Batty

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2015, 10:08:49 pm »
My Guyatone LG-200t has a 1 9/16 nut and I can see where a narrow nut would be a challenge if you had big hands. My hands are about average and I can manage.

Ry Cooder plays one on this track (with Manuel Galbán on Tele) and he does alright:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UguMsdpk2_g.



Offline Ritchie200

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2015, 07:23:10 pm »
I am reading Brian May's book on how he and his dad built the "Red Special".  They came up with a very ingenious design for the nut as they were trying to make a friction free setup for the wang bar.  They used an ordinary fret for the nut position where the strings break over and used a real nut behind it for spacing only as the strings did not touch the bottom of the string slots.  Pretty cool!  The wang bar design is equally incredible.  The book is about the guitar but also a heart-felt story about his dad.  I am really enjoying reading it.

Sorry, somewhat off topic.  However, if you wanted to do something a little different.... :icon_biggrin:

Jim

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Offline Ritchie200

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2015, 07:29:06 pm »
Here ya go...

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Offline HotBluePlates

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #10 on: March 07, 2015, 07:05:11 pm »
... I saw that it comes with a 1&5/8" nut. I usually play a 1& 11/16 and even like a 1& 3/4". 

Anyone ever play a 1&5/8" nut width and like it OK?  I think maybe some of the Gibson Melody Makers had that?  So maybe it will be tolerable.  ...

It seems a lot of early Fender guitars were 1 5/8". The Warmoth neck on my Tele is 1 5/8" (which I didn't fully understand when I ordered it).

It is fine and feels good for smaller hands... until you try to do any clever fingerpicking stuff, then the close spacing of the strings down in the first 4 gets claustrophobic very fast. I'd like to at least try a Tele neck with a 1 3/4" nut, and maybe wider.

Bottom-line, nut width and neck thickness can be a personal feel preference and anything other than what you use often will feel weird. That said, it's not hard to get used to switching between various guitars with different measurements, but you may find you prefer playing certain things on one guitar over another due to the feel differences.

Offline Toxophilite

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #11 on: March 08, 2015, 09:02:57 pm »
Cool a hollowbody guitar kit!
and that Ry Cooder Guyatone is one pretty guitar!! I want it!

The Aria Fa-71 I just finished fixing up and hot-rodding had a narrow nut spacing making for a cramped left hand
There was room to widen the spacing so I did and it works fine
That would be my vote, easy to do, easy to reverse if you want etc.

I like zero frets (Like the one Brian May used) (my old Gretschs have them it was Chet Atkins idea) but the Guitar has to designed that way from the get go
It's not something you could easily add to a non zero fret guitar . You'd likely need a new or longer fretboard

Offline tubenit

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #12 on: March 09, 2015, 08:29:11 am »
Thanks to everyone for the information and comments!  HBP, I didn't know your Tele was 1&5/8".  I remember that being a very nice guitar to play with great tone!

Reading about the difference between the 1&5/8"  vs.  1&11/16", I actually found quite a few very positive reviews of people liking (& even preferring) the 1&5/8" nut over the 1& 11/16" nut.

http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/stratocaster-discussion-forum/68892-1-5-8-nut-vs-1-11-16-nut.html

It appears that a 1.65" nut seems to be well liked by many and that is in between 1.625 (1&5/8") and 1.6875 (1&11/16"). 

So, in light of that and several comments about just cutting a wider nut for the guitar neck, I am thinking I will probably just do a 1.65" nut and be done with it.  I have a blank Gibson style graphite nut already and a preslotted Gibson TUSQ style nut also.  Not sure what size the TUSQ preslotted one is?

I should get my guitar kit either today or tomorrow.  Hopefully it will arrive in decent shape.  I will post some comments about how the kit appears after I look at it and see how well the neck fits etc......

Thanks guys!   With respect, Tubenit

Offline jjasilli

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #13 on: March 09, 2015, 08:26:43 pm »
@ Ritchie200: They used an ordinary fret for the nut position where the strings break over and used a real nut behind it for spacing only as the strings did not touch the bottom of the string slots.  Pretty cool! 

This is called a Zero Fret.  (Personally I can't use them.  The sight picture completely throws me off.  By the 5th fret I'm lost.)

I have big hands, thick fingers and finger tips.   1-9/16"  is unplayable for me.  I have a few electrics @ 1-5/8; this I think is the old standard.  Barely OK for rock & blues for left hand string muting for me.  But I can barely play chords with clean notes.  OK for slide.  1-11/16 is good for me; seems to be more standard these days.  1-3/4 good for acoustic finger picking, but I don't have such a guitar. 

Also neck radius.  Can't get a clean barre @ 15" - flat radius.  This includes my Martin D28. :BangHead:   12" - 14" is good for me.  By 9.5" I tend to fret out bending strings past the 12th fret.  7.25" is unplayable for me.

Offline tubenit

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #14 on: March 09, 2015, 08:28:31 pm »
OK, here is the 335 type kit that I bought:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Semi-Hollow-Body-DIY-Electric-Guitar-Builder-Kit-with-Mahogany-Unfinished-New-/111454583141?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f335f965

There is not much sanding to do at all.  I will sand highlighting the flame maple on top and that's about it.  The flamed maple is actually
pretty decent appearance quality & pretty much like in the picture, but it is a veneer that is just incredibly thin. Not much thicker then thick computer paper. It would be very easy to sand thru it with an electric sander.

The middle of the nut on my good Tele's are about 1.675".  The nut on this guitar turned out to be 1.647". It does look like I can replace the nut and have a little bit to work with to widen the string spacing, so I am anticipating the neck will work out just fine for me.

At first fretwire:  Tele  1.719"           335  1.689"

At second fretwire    Tele  1.749"      335  1.735"

At third fretwire    Tele  1.781"        335  1.774"

The pickups are 9.56k for the neck and 10.25k for the bridge.  I wish they were less resistance.  I ordered some replacement Alnico II magnetic bars for $7 total and will replace the magnets for each pickup.  I think this will head the tone more the direction I want.

I am thinking the guitar will need the tuners upgraded but I am not planning to do anything else at this point but that.

Hopefully, I will dye and sunburst the guitar body this weekend and then start the lacquering.  I'll use urethane on the neck.

With respect, Tubenit

« Last Edit: March 09, 2015, 08:30:51 pm by tubenit »

Offline Ritchie200

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #15 on: March 10, 2015, 02:30:34 am »
@ Ritchie200: They used an ordinary fret for the nut position where the strings break over and used a real nut behind it for spacing only as the strings did not touch the bottom of the string slots.  Pretty cool! 

This is called a Zero Fret.  (Personally I can't use them.  The sight picture completely throws me off.  By the 5th fret I'm lost.)

I thought with the Zero Fret the strings break over at the fret AND the nut?  That is how my first electric guitar is set up (Japanese Audition from the 60's).  After looking at that for so many years, I guess I just never thought of using the nut to only space the strings.  Probably another misinterpreted definition by me!  I learn something new every time I come here!  Thanks!

Jim

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #16 on: March 10, 2015, 06:05:26 pm »
Hey, a Zero Fret is a Zero Fret.  . . what you do with your nuts is another story!   :l2:

Offline Ed_Chambley

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #17 on: March 11, 2015, 10:00:44 am »
@ Ritchie200: They used an ordinary fret for the nut position where the strings break over and used a real nut behind it for spacing only as the strings did not touch the bottom of the string slots.  Pretty cool! 

This is called a Zero Fret.  (Personally I can't use them.  The sight picture completely throws me off.  By the 5th fret I'm lost.)

I have big hands, thick fingers and finger tips.   1-9/16"  is unplayable for me.  I have a few electrics @ 1-5/8; this I think is the old standard.  Barely OK for rock & blues for left hand string muting for me.  But I can barely play chords with clean notes.  OK for slide.  1-11/16 is good for me; seems to be more standard these days.  1-3/4 good for acoustic finger picking, but I don't have such a guitar. 

Also neck radius.  Can't get a clean barre @ 15" - flat radius.  This includes my Martin D28. :BangHead:   12" - 14" is good for me.  By 9.5" I tend to fret out bending strings past the 12th fret.  7.25" is unplayable for me.
All I can say is +1.

I have an old Tele with 7.25" radius and the high action is ridiculous.  I do like a "0" fret as third intervals sound better (tune) and I am usually playing clean.

Jeff, I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

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Re: 1 & 5/8" neck width
« Reply #18 on: March 11, 2015, 10:13:05 am »
OK, here is the 335 type kit that I bought:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Semi-Hollow-Body-DIY-Electric-Guitar-Builder-Kit-with-Mahogany-Unfinished-New-/111454583141?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f335f965

There is not much sanding to do at all.  I will sand highlighting the flame maple on top and that's about it.  The flamed maple is actually
pretty decent appearance quality & pretty much like in the picture, but it is a veneer that is just incredibly thin. Not much thicker then thick computer paper. It would be very easy to sand thru it with an electric sander.

The middle of the nut on my good Tele's are about 1.675".  The nut on this guitar turned out to be 1.647". It does look like I can replace the nut and have a little bit to work with to widen the string spacing, so I am anticipating the neck will work out just fine for me.

At first fretwire:  Tele  1.719"           335  1.689"

At second fretwire    Tele  1.749"      335  1.735"

At third fretwire    Tele  1.781"        335  1.774"

The pickups are 9.56k for the neck and 10.25k for the bridge.  I wish they were less resistance.  I ordered some replacement Alnico II magnetic bars for $7 total and will replace the magnets for each pickup.  I think this will head the tone more the direction I want.

I am thinking the guitar will need the tuners upgraded but I am not planning to do anything else at this point but that.

Hopefully, I will dye and sunburst the guitar body this weekend and then start the lacquering.  I'll use urethane on the neck.

With respect, Tubenit
Dang it, now you got me interested.  Looking at the kits, most do not even give nut width.  I do like the one with tuner pegs inline with the nut, but still has enough room to make a Gibson open book headstock.  How cool is that?

Offline tubenit

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semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #19 on: March 14, 2015, 02:51:12 pm »
OK,  I got the sunburst done on the guitar body.  AND I put a veneer of quilted maple on the headstock. 

The body kit came with too much glue on the outside of the wood in places.  That's a real challenge on this guitar as the maple veneer is so super thin.  Having said that ............... so far I am reasonably please with the guitar.

I ordered some Gotoh tuners and a Gotoh bridge and a different strap button.  And I plan to replace the humbucker pickup magnets with Alnico II.  So, some minor upgrades to the original kit.

When the smoke clears,  I should have about $230 to $250 total in the guitar.  The kit was $161 shipped.

I should mention, I am planning to bolt the neck on using 5 bolts.  There are some T-nuts on the base of the neck tenon.

With respect, Tubenit

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #20 on: March 14, 2015, 06:19:22 pm »
Looks real nice!


               Brad    :icon_biggrin:

Offline Platefire

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #21 on: March 14, 2015, 08:03:44 pm »
Looks Good Tubenit! Kinda Ice Teaish. 
On the right track now<><

Offline Toxophilite

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #22 on: March 16, 2015, 01:18:01 am »
Nice job on the sunburst!!
I like them like a nice lighter sunburst
That looks like a lot of fun!
Bravo!


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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2015, 09:05:33 am »
Thanks for your nice comments! 

I am using a new lacquer that I have never used before spraying this.  It's this new Min-wax lacquer. If you count bass guitars & acoustics also ........ I've built 23 guitars (IIRC).   I've always used Deft Clear Wood finish before which has given me a very high gloss and VERY clear transparent finish.  The Deft polishes extremely well in my experience and a few months out has been very durable.  I think the Deft lacquer has some urethane or something mixed in with it?

This new Min-Wax lacquer seems to be a thicker lacquer and so far is leaving a very smooth finish. Not sure yet how transparent the lacquer will eventually be.  Will keep you guys posted about this.

I will say after 4 spray coats of lacquer, the flamed veneer is really popping out more.

With respect, Tubenit

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2015, 09:14:21 am »
You got the color of the sunburst just perfect! Looking forward to seeing the shiny finish.
A schematic, layout, and hi-rez pics are very useful for troubleshooting your amp. Don't wait to be asked. JUST DO IT!

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #25 on: March 17, 2015, 04:42:52 pm »
Great finish!  Could we cajole you into a tutorial?   :worthy1:

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #26 on: March 18, 2015, 12:12:40 pm »
Tutorial condensed version.  Dan Erlwine has a great book on this.

Sand body down to 220 grit.

"Pop" the flame by applying water based analine dye to top. Sand off the dye.  Repeat 2-3 times. The flames now start looking MUCH more pronounced.

If open grain wood like mahogany and you want it filled:  I prefer to dye the back and sides, then add wood filler, sand smooth and dye it again.  Others will fill, sand and dye.   Sometimes I leave it open grained & just dye it.

I only use a t-shirt rag for the sunburst as I like the burst to be subtle and fade from one color to another and NOT have a crisp spray line.  I've sprayed a burst and did not like it and sanded it off and started over.  I don't like the crisp line type sunbursts on Fender guitars or on some Carvin guitars. Particularly the black edged sunbursts.  Look at PRS or Tom Anderson guitars for an idea for a good sunburst. Print off a picture and have it displayed near your work bench as a reference.

I mix up my water based analine dye to my preference and have tested it on scrap wood.  I simply dip the rag into the dye and wipe it on to the wood gently using a circular motion.   (I only use alcohol analine dye for a solid red guitar)

To do the bursts like I do them.  You need yellow, amber, red, and a brown (with some red in it).  Those 4 colors will give you lots and lots of options to mix.

The sunburst:  Analine dye with weak yellow dye.  Lightly sand.  Analine dye with amber.  Sand again and then reapply amber a 2nd time. These are across all the top.  This is part of the "popping" the flame stuff I refered to.

Mix your accent darker color to taste.  Do a first pass application around edges of about 1 inch. Now take a t-shirt rag and gently fade that from inside to outside edge.  Now do a 2nd pass about 1.5" - 2" and fade from inside to outside again.  This will leave you a color change that darkens as it moves to the edge with the yellow/amber burst in the middle of the top.

Now take a slightly water dampened  t-shirt rag and soak it with Windex.  Yes, Windex!  Start in middle and wipe to edges. Continue doing this until you have a gentle sunburst fade that is subtle.  Then you look at it and wipe and fade wherever you feel like it helps the appearance to get a finished sunburst that you like.  Let it dry for about 20 minutes and come back with a slightly water dampened rag & apply Windex again and wipe down the entire guitar starting with the top in the middle to edges.

I use two rags for two colors on the top and a different rag (for a total of 3) for the side/backs.  I use several more rags for the water/Windex wiping.

This is NOT hard to do. You just have to use your eyes to shape the sunburst to what you want.  It takes me about 15-20 minutes to dye a guitar with a sunburst top using a rag.

Let it dry overnight.  The next morning it will look pretty washed out, faded, 1 dimensional and like a failure.  It's not !
(if you did it right).   It will take about 4-7 coats of lacquer to restore the brilliance and intensity of the color and figured wood.

I use Deft Clear Wood finish and after 7 coats sand very lightly with 320-400 grit.  Add 7 more coats and same thing.
Add 7 more coats for about 21 coats total.  This takes 2-3 spray cans.

At 21 coats I start sanding with 800 grit and go to 1000-1200 grit using a block sander which is very critical.  A good flat orbital sander will work as a start. Then I use blocks of wood with sandpaper.  This is ALL done wet sanding.  You must stop and wipe the top numerous times with a dry towel to check the sanding.

When the "orange peel" is sanded out, you will probably have about 12 coats of lacquer thickness left and half of the initial lacquer has been sanded off.

By hand, I use blocks of wood covered with t-shirt rags and McGuire's auto polish. And I polish very very very gently in circular motions until a glassy super high gloss that looks wet.  It takes about 3 hrs minimum to polish a guitar top for me.   I do very little polishing on sides and back. I don't care if they look more semi-gloss.

With respect, Jeff



« Last Edit: March 18, 2015, 12:23:51 pm by tubenit »

Offline jjasilli

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #27 on: March 18, 2015, 12:58:49 pm »
Thanks for this info! Didn't know a burst could be done with wiping.  I've been totally intimidated by spraying:  technique, equipment, fumes, spray booth, etc.  I have none of these things!  Guess I should get the Erlewine book. 


I've been putting off a refinish on an Ibanez Blazer strat-like body.  I've got a dark burst Carvin neck for it.  So I need to strip the body and dark burst it.  The water based method should be free of fumes; home & wife friendly, I guess.


If I understand this: you apply water-based dye with only a wipe-on method, no spraying. 


I assume you're using water based Deft.  How do you apply the Deft?

Offline tubenit

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #28 on: March 18, 2015, 04:00:00 pm »
Yes, all analine dye I've used on 21 electrics were done with wiping with a rag.  Only spray attempt was sanded off and I redid it with a rag.   Analine has no more odor to me than root beer or ice tea.  Much less odor then the Windex. No mask needed for it using a rag.   I suspect it is the same stuff as Rit Dye for T-shirts and such.

I use aerosol cans of Deft Clear Wood Finish.  My understanding it is some type of nitrocellulose lacquer that something added to it?  IIRC, at one point the lacquer cans had nitrocellulose lacquer written on the label.  Possibly some type of urethane is what I was told might be added.  Don't know if that's correct?  It is NOT water based at all to my understanding.

ON this semi-hollow body, I am trying Min-wax lacquer for the first time.  Not sure it is as clear as the Deft Clear Wood Finish and it seems to be thicker and may need fewer coats.

With respect, Jeff 
« Last Edit: May 20, 2020, 06:34:23 am by tubenit »

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #29 on: March 21, 2015, 07:25:04 pm »
OK,  I took the humbucking pickups and changed out the magnet on them for Alnico II magnets.  Pretty easy to do & I checked them for resistance after the process and everything is showing successful.  Magnets were $5.  Thought I'd try that before replacing the magnets.

Now that I know how to do it, I could probably do it again in maybe 30 min or less.

with respect, Tubenit

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #30 on: March 21, 2015, 11:35:43 pm »
Thanks for that awesome writeup on how you do your sunbursts! I've also always been intimidated to try this because, like jjasilli, I thought it all needed to be sprayed also!

It really looks to me like the hardest part is really the clear coat. That looks like a lot of work but based on your photos, it really pays off.

When you spray on the clear Deft coats, do you mask-off the neck pocket and the pickup/control holes so you don't fill them with goop?

What about the binding? Did you mask that off or does the dye not stick to it?

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #31 on: March 22, 2015, 06:38:29 am »
On bolt on guitars, I do not mask off the neck pocket.  You would mask off on a glue in neck.

No, I don't mask off the pickup cavities.

No, I don't mask off the binding.  It will be carefully scraped clean. There are some excellent YouTubes showing how to do this.

With respect, Tubenit

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #32 on: March 22, 2015, 04:49:15 pm »
Awesome thanks. This thread is filed-away in my memory banks for when I finally decide to tackle a guitar kit!

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #33 on: March 27, 2015, 08:02:23 pm »
OK, I spent some time scraping the bindings.  It actually went quite quickly and was fairly easy to do.  Maybe 25 min?

Just have a few more coats to put on,  then I'll let it sit for a few weeks and then polish it out.

Tubenit

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #34 on: March 29, 2015, 09:14:21 pm »
On bolt on guitars, I do not mask off the neck pocket.  You would mask off on a glue in neck.

No, I don't mask off the pickup cavities.

No, I don't mask off the binding.  It will be carefully scraped clean. There are some excellent YouTubes showing how to do this.

With respect, Tubenit


FWIW: I built a "Strat" with a licensed body, finished.  With the extra thickness added by finish overspray in the neck pocket, the neck wouldn't fit.  I contrived a jig and used a sanding drum on a dremel tool mounted in a router-like base to remove the finish in the neck pocket.   PIA. I wish they had masked it. 

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #35 on: April 02, 2015, 02:54:32 pm »
Looks great. Dang, you've built 23 guitars  :worthy1:
 
I "built' a Tele a few years back and nitro'd it. No kit. By built of course I mean somoene gave me a precut poplar Tele body, I sourced the parts and installed them but this is not to be confused with building a neck, gluign and leveling frets etc... I only mention this for I typed up a tutorial on the painstaking process. I about tore my rotator cuffs it seems while nitroing that thing and I probably will never do another but it was fun....most of the time anyway. If anyone were to want me to post this I'd be happy to. As usual it is the errors one learns from the most vesus the success. What not to do is almost as important as what to do. 
 
At any rate, it looks fantastic Tubenit.

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #36 on: April 05, 2015, 10:58:58 pm »
Yes, please post the nitro process.

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #37 on: April 25, 2015, 08:13:46 pm »
Started polishing the lacquer today.  I don't think the min-wax lacquer is as transparent as the Deft Clear wood finish. It does spray on smoother and it builds up quicker. So, it is something of a trade off.  I don't think it will have that totally clear wet look that the Deft does.

I did get it worked out to bolt the neck on and it seems to be quite sturdy!

With respect, Tubenit

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #38 on: April 28, 2015, 06:33:32 am »
OK, it's finished except for a new graphite nut and I am going to use.

I like the tone of the pickups very much. I replaced the magnets with Alnico 2. This was maybe a $7 mod? IIRC
I replaced the tuners & didn't even try the originals.  I replaced the bridge with an adjustable Gotoh.
I bought an inexpensive hardshell case for it. 

Original kit was $161.  I probably have a little less then $300 into it with the new graphite nut.

I made it a bolt on neck because I wasn't sure if I'd like the neck or not.  However,  I love the neck!  It has a super nice feel to it and frets out just fine with good intonation.  Surprised me quite a bit.  It's a 24& 3/4 scale, so bending strings is very easy.

I may reposition one pickup to sit under the strings a tiny bit better.  I need to hide the wiring in the f-hole.

Overall, I am very happy with the guitar.  Only downside is that it has a tiny buzz similar to a single coil guitar. This may be because of an unshielded cavity?

With respect, Tubenit

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Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #39 on: April 28, 2015, 06:37:34 am »
OK, and now for something totally goofy .......................

This is how I bolted on the neck.  On the back side,  I had to make my own steel neck plates. (yes, two of them).  It looks very Silvertonish, Airline-ish,  Teisco-ish .................... but it works well!

With respect, Tubenit
« Last Edit: April 28, 2015, 07:58:01 am by tubenit »

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Re: semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #40 on: April 28, 2015, 08:16:51 am »
Only downside is that it has a tiny buzz similar to a single coil guitar. This may be because of an unshielded cavity?


amazing work - its a credit to you!!


What wiring scheme are you using? Sometimes it takes a few attempts to quieten these down, and (imo) they are my least favourite body to re-wire - tweezer central!


I had one epiphone i must a done 5 or 6 times and it buzzed like crazy until in the end I made up two shielded boxes  for the pickups lined with copper tape - it wasnt silent but seemed to help. other than that make sure there;s no ground loops, give it one way out only.... but you probably already did that!!


nice job
Cheers,
Bakerlite

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Re: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #41 on: April 29, 2015, 05:54:06 am »
Thanks for the comments and thoughts about buzz.

I did NOT use any shielded wiring except from the pickups to the pots.  I think I am going to add shielded wiring from switch to output jack and maybe one other spot and see if that makes a difference.

For those who followed the info about sunbursting and lacquering on this thread.  I used the Min-wax lacquer and I don't know what type of lacquer it is.  It did spray very smoothly.  I used 400 grit sandpaper to sand after about 7 spray coats.  7 coats - sand- 7 more- sand- etc...

When it was done, I waited about 3 weeks to sand and polish.  It probably took me less then an hour to sand the top using 1000 grit paper. I polished for about 20 min and then waited til next day and polished it about 45 more minutes.  It was glassy smooth, but the finish was not super clear with the wet look which I think was an issue with the lacquer. The Deft clear wood finish is a clearer lacquer, IMO.

The Min-wax lacquer is less work then the Deft clear wood finish. Easier to use too.

with respect, Tubenit

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Re: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #42 on: May 14, 2015, 06:54:52 pm »
NIce!
Must've been fun and very gratifying!

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Re: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #43 on: May 18, 2015, 06:37:06 am »
Tubenit - Beautiful burst!

did you mask the f-holes?  I'd think scraping those would be difficult.

Chip
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Plan to be wrong about something.

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Re: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #44 on: May 18, 2015, 07:21:55 am »
No, I did not mask the f-holes. Not an issue at all. Remember I was using a clear coat. And the analine dye wiped off without a problem.

I've replaced the nut with a graphite nut and set the intonation.  The guitar plays like a dream!  Unbelievably nice quality tone and feel to the guitar for about $250 or so with upgrades.

Changed pickups magnets out
Installed Gotoh tuners
Installed Gotah bridge
Installed graphite nut.

With respect, Tubenit

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Re: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #45 on: May 18, 2015, 12:13:14 pm »
Personally
I'm not so surprised it turned out nice
You did a great job!!


(oops had to edit, I was riding my hobby horse!)
« Last Edit: May 23, 2015, 01:49:02 pm by Toxophilite »

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Re: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #46 on: May 22, 2015, 07:25:13 pm »
Haven't checked-in on this thread in a while and I have to say, Tubenit, you did a mighty fine job on that guitar.

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Re: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #47 on: August 02, 2015, 08:41:32 pm »
Loaned my semi-hollow body out to a pro musician I know & he wants one ................ so I ordered another kit and am building it for him for parts cost only with free labor since he is something of a friend and really decent guy.  He is really a great player & an amazing vocalist!  Can play numerous instruments quite well.

Using waterfall bubinga veneer on the headstock. It's got that iridescent cracker jacks toy "winky" thing going on with the quilt in it where it shows up and disappears in the lighting.

That guitar has quite a bit of figuring in the maple (over mahogany body) for a $170 (free shipping) guitar kit.

Only have a couple of coats of lacquer on it. Going to do this one as a bolt on neck also.

With respect, Tubenit
« Last Edit: August 02, 2015, 08:44:44 pm by tubenit »

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Re: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #48 on: August 04, 2015, 10:26:51 am »
Hay tubnit, your work is Beautiful! Great Job. What I'm wondering now that you've had it a while and had opportunity to tweak it to your likings----how do you enjoy playing it? Can you do your thing successfully on it? Platefire
On the right track now<><

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Re: Done! semi-hollow body kit guitar
« Reply #49 on: August 04, 2015, 10:34:36 am »
I've played the guitar in post #38 quite a bit and love it.  Fun guitar. 

I am more used to a 25.5" scale and so playing a 23.75" scale has been an adjustment for me.  In some ways, I think I am a little bit more creative in my playing with the 335.

Best regards,  Jeff

 


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