A good place to start is to just build a nice simple experimenter amp, then you can compare what you read to actual voltages/currents and how they sound to your ears.
A great tube to experiment with is the 6L6, which is a tough tube that is compatible with a wide range of preamp designs and power amp variations, and doesn't suffer from blocking distortion problems that are so easy to accidentally create when using EL84s and 6V6s.
Get a transformer set that will support the 6L6. A 275-0-275 or 300-0-300 with at least 200mA (like the 270HX/272HX from Hammond or an equivalent Edcor) will be perfect, or you can get a replacement PT from almost any 40 to 60 watt Fender, Ampeg or other amp with 6L6s or EL34s. It's nice to get an OT with 4, 8 and 16 ohm secondaries, so you can use just about any combination of speakers. A 50 watt OT with a primary impedance of 4k2 would be great for the 415V B+ on the Pignose shown below, but anything between 4k and 5k would work.
Get a BUNCH of 5 to 10W power resistors (I like the Vishay Mills resistors, available in 7 watt and 12 watt versions, and some 20uF, 40uF and 47uF filter caps (F&T makes nice radial versions). The power resistors are to dial in the B+ voltages at each node.
Build a straightforward one-channel amp (I think the Pignose G40V is a really great one to start with), using this schematic and board layout, but use a simpler RC-filtered power supply with a 2-diode full-wave rectifier (the G40V schematic shows the voltages to aim at for each node): Of course, you can just copy the pignose power supply if you want, but it's overly complicated for this simple amp IMO.
To help you design a simple RC-filtered power supply. Merlin's preamp book and web site show you how to vary the voltages at each node by changing resistor values, and how to ensure adequate filtering using a simple formula to choose capacitor values. If you want to experiment with "sag", simply leave a spot for an extra resistor right after the reservoir cap, in series with the string of RC filters.


The biggest things you can control are screen voltage vs. plate voltage, fixed bias vs. cathode bias and amount of NFB (including the choice of no NFB). Do a little reading on this and other forums on how to implement a switchable fixed bias vs cathode bias (it's easy) and NFB disconnect switch (also super easy).
Now you can read all the old amp books (I bought several tube amp textbooks that go back to as far as 1935), and study the popular guitar amps (also make sure you have the power tube datasheets), and actually try things for yourself. A cheap one-channel scope (from eBay, whether Tek, Kiethley, BK Precision, Tenma, etc) is super handy to see waveforms - just make sure it comes with a high-voltage 1kV probe.
You can read stuff for the rest of your life,but building/reading/tweaking will teach you so much more. Of course I could be all wrong, but that's what worked for me
