DON'T USE MY RESISTOR VALUES! The resistor values are determined by the amount of AC voltage applied from the PT. My PT puts out 33VAC for the bias. I doubt your PT will do the same. Use the values Hoffman has on his schematic. Also notice that the resistor between the PT and the diode is called the bias range resistor? That resistor will usually be 470Ω if the AC voltage is coming from a approx. 50VAC bias tap on the PT. That range resistor will usually be 100K (or higher) if the AC comes from the HT winding of the PT. You can change the value of that resistor if you need to shift the range of bias voltage adjustment for your amp. My amp doesn't have a range resistor because the range of bias voltage adjustment is already right where it needs to be.
I highly recommend you build this circuit EXACTLY like the Hoffman schematic. And use his board layout. Then if you need to troubleshoot when you fire it up, you won't have to wonder if something you changed is the problem. You can concentrate on finding the wiring error or wrong component value. Adding the 1M (or 2.2M) resistors to the bias and INT pots is a good idea, but millions of Fender amps work just fine without them. Are you going to use Hoffman's pre-drilled board or will you roll your own?
My PT has a 50 volt bias winding so the 470 ohm range resistor is correct. Fresh Start must have been coming from the B+ and that is why he had to use the 82K value. Are you recommending Doug's exact bias circuit and not using the two electrolytic caps? Fender had better pots to work with versus what is made today in my opinion Can't even get a decent pot today for $30.00.
I bought the G-10, turrets and eyelets from Doug as well as the aluminum spacer tool and the flaring tool. So of course I am going to build my own. Wouldn't want to do it the easy way.
I built an AB763 amp probably 10 years ago using a Fender chassis that was scrapped. Fender had a 3-3/8" center-to-center gap between V2 and V3 of the one channel amp. This is where they installed the reverb driver. Making extra space for the reverb driver has the additional advantage of shortening the wires between the reverb and vibrato pots and their corresponding circuit board connections.
Doug's layout, once it is blown up to scale, has 1-1/2" center-to-center spacing between V2 and V3. What I thought I would do was separate the V2 and V3a cathode caps and resistors to accommodate the 1-7/8" difference between Fender's and Doug's spacing. Another advantage to doing this is it allows space for larger tone caps. I have some .047 and .1 blue molded caps Fender used in their blackfaced amps which I like quite a bit. I could use a little of this new found board space to create more room for the tone caps and probably the PI caps tied to the grid return resistors, or in my case the PPIMV pot that I spent a small fortune for.
As you may recall I am also planning on putting in a passive effects loop. You recommended against running the .001 cap feeding the grid of V5a (PI tube) and instead said it should be on the board. It would be a lot more direct and the grid wire would be much shorter if the cap went from the tip of the power amp input jack of the FX loop to the V5a grid.
I have learned it is a bad idea to disregard your recommendations. What I think I will do is go to my computer guy. He has the 2007 version of MS-Visio that he will install for $35.00. Learn how to use it and then make a layout reflecting the changes mentioned above. The hen scratched versions I have been making are impossible to read.
Thanks
Mike