Chassis fabrication

[macula56]

Who does chassis fabrication? And I mean non standard sizes. The guy I used to get them from is out of business because his shop burned down. I've done extensive searchs but can't seem to find anyone that makes them from scratch. Who do you guys get yours from? Thanks, JMac.

[Jack_Hester]

This guy makes mostly aluminum:

http://www.seasidechassisdesign.com/

But, he will build them in steel, maximum of 18 gauge.  He bolts end caps in, rather than fold and weld the ends.  I've bought some from him over the past few years. 

Jack

[uki]

I did made mine, it isn't too difficult, with aluminum plate, it is easy to bend and you don't need too many tools, about 1,5-2mm thick will do, here some pics I think you'll get the idea:

[macula56]

thanks Gentlemen.

[Mike_J]

I have a steel man in Stuart, Florida. His company is called Z Metal. He can do aluminum or steel. Will weld corners and make holes. I have had him make aluminum chassis for me because it is easier on bits. However, if you are having him do the holes it wouldn't matter as much. He charged me $45.00 per chassis plus a reasonable charge for programming.

Thanks,
Mike

[sean_thornton]

Really, any good sheet metal fabricator should be able to build one. They may even include installation of captive nuts etc., just provide them with a decent drawing of what you want. Or, buy your own sheet metal brake and build your own.

[kagliostro]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Portable-Bench-Top-Sheet-Metal-Hand-Brake-17-Gauge-Bender-90-Degree-Bends-/191830068503

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bending-brake-39103.html

This bender can bend "C" channel chassis, Sluckey often uses this kind of chassis

Franco

[Brendan]

I made this with the Harbor Freight bender linked above.  That was made from a 12" square of 22 gauge steel from Home Depot. If I had decided to work with aluminum,  it would have been easy to include folded end caps with tabs for riveting. A few sharp drill bits, a few uni-bits, and away you go.

[Paul1453]

I have realized that being able to fabricate a chassis for a specific build,
is the foundation of the entire process.

Modifying an old chassis to meet the needs of a new design is extremely challenging.
It can sometimes work without problems.
Or it can create problems that are difficult or even impossible to correct.

Even when successful in modifying something,
it does not lead to the professional looking, high quality builds so many of you post pictures of.

I'm saving up to get the tools I need,
to produce professional looking, high quality builds like most of you more experienced builders create.   

Being able to design and build a chassis that can properly incorporate the vintage parts I have,
into a proven design and layout will help me stop 

[eleventeen]

"Even when successful in modifying something,it does not lead to the professional looking, high quality builds so many of you post pictures of."


I certainly hear what you are saying, but it isn't an absolute. Nothing's free, even mscaggs' Deluxe Reverb barn find the other day. That amp, cool as it is, likely needs $200-$300 [cost] work thrown at it just to play note #1, assuming, probably wrongly, the lightest cap and Deoxit job and a repl speaker would get it playing with zero other issues.


But a PR cabinet all tolexed up from Mojo (just one source) is $300


It all depends in my estimation what your priorities are. Looks? Function/tone? Roadworthiness? All?


You'll never make something as pretty as either a "new from repro parts" PR or one of the many great looking and very creative Tweed stylings folks come up with that have been seen on this forum, without spending a fair amount of either time or parts money or tooling money on the esthetics.


Meanwhile, you can buy a clean used Peavey tube amp like their Valveking or maybe earlier models they made for $250 used. When you consider cabinet costs, that is so far below any conceivable build cost esp for a one-off guy, it's silly. Of course, if you like doing the work and most of us do, then the price isn't important, I guess.


To build a PR from zero, not starting from either a clean or trashed PR, has to cost $700 just parts by my quick calc. 

[Paul1453]

It all depends in my estimation what your priorities are. Looks? Function/tone? Roadworthiness? All?

To build a PR from zero, not starting from either a clean or trashed PR, has to cost $700 just parts by my quick calc.

Thanks for your input, eleventeen.

So far my priorities have only been function and tone, the rest were not even considered.   

After looking at all the other amp pictures posted here, I began to feel my accomplishments were rather sub standard.
I mean they worked and sounded very good to me, but if someone were to undress my amp and compare it to pictures of others posted here.
I'd be rather embarrassed by the comparison.

The metal brake I'm considering purchasing will cost me less than 1 premade chassis delivered.
I figured that if I want to continue to pursue this hobby,
I should try to produce undressed amps that don't embarrass me by comparison.
Another benefit I considered is being able to customize a layout to accommodate the vintage junk parts I have accumulated.

Not counting my capital investment in tools, or my labor costs,
I think I could produce many of these amp head designs for less than $200 using my cheap salvaged parts and a few new components.
Quality speakers and a combo housing could easily cost me more than that.
So I get what you are saying about just buying a used tube amp locally.

We cannot compete with the costs of Chinese slave labor.
But I enjoy learning this stuff and the sense of accomplishment when I hear something I made.
I'm not trying to go into business and make a big profit.
It would be nice if I could just break even with my tool and junk parts costs. 

[Mike_J]

If you are making heads from my experience the main costs are transformers, cabinet and chassis. If you can make your own chassis and cabinet and find used transformers inexpensively you may be able to accomplish your $200 number. Used transformers are preferred by a lot of people. Dumble would source used Fender or Music Man iron for his builds. Not sure if it was to save money or because he noticed an improvement in tone when using the used iron but some people swear that recycled iron sounds better.


Thanks,
Mike

[Paul1453]

I'm unsure of the vintage iron advantage in sound quality.   
Maybe it is true, which would be good for me. 

But what I am sure of is, that with continuous surveillance of the Ebay market,
I am able to purchase items like a working Wurlitzer 6L6 PP amp with all tubes for less than $75 delivered.
With the ability to construct a proper chassis for a guitar amp, I can re-purpose these vintage components
into a Rockin guitar amp for under $100 of additional components quite easily.

Clearly this does not reflect any value for the considerable amount of time I must spend to do it.
But I am enjoying that process and developing valuable knowledge, skills, and abilities.

For me, chassis fabrication has become a critical issue I must address if I want to continue to grow in this hobby.   

[eleventeen]

$200-$300 isn't a life changing amount of money; if you enjoy, go and do.


In line with the past few posts though, having not mentioned pure cheapness (which is why we like to scrounge used stuff) it remains my opinion that building an amp inside a dead Peavey carcass you bought super cheap whose guts you can rip out can put you a few hundred bucks ahead. Yes, of course there's punching big holes for tubes but if you were to strip it clean and go with an mscaggs Hoffman board treatment, you'd have a predictable outcome whether you used salvaged trannies or bot new ones.


Or you could scrounge around for an old Peavey Triumph.

[Paul1453]

Metal Break ordered.

Now I just need a drill press, table saw, router, jig saw, belt sander, etc.   
One step at a time I guess.

This should help me to stop trying to fit square pegs in round holes.
After I learn how to use it properly.   

[PRR]

> Metal Break ordered.

Please. It is a metal BRAKE. It holds the metal like your brakes hold your car.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_%28sheet_metal_bending%29

[Paul1453]

Thanks PRR,

Maybe that is why I got, what I consider, a pretty good price on this "Break".

It seems the seller's that know how to spell "Metal Brake" want more money for their "Brakes".   

[Moonage]

Since I do not have a lot of tools necessary for chassis fabrication, I had to order at first, a blank chassis, had to drill holes, and order face-plate, and back-plate and cost of everything approaching $300 together with shipping, and not so perfect final outcome. I found, later that there are companies, that would do on-off complete chassis, laser cut holes painted(powder coated or anodized), and silkscreened with captive hardware installed for a fraction more.

The first two, I ordered from Protocase, but recently, they increased prices. I quoted one chassis at Datapro, and they seem reasonable. Did not order yet, but so far they are the best.

here are some photos of one from Protocase





http://www.datapro.net

http://www.protocase.com/

[Moonage]

Another two pics

[Willabe]

What are the PCB circuits, Power Scaling?   

[Moonage]

What are the PCB circuits, Power Scaling?

Yes...added recently, that is the reason for different knobs, and no silkscreen.

[Willabe]

Ok, thanks. 

Forgot to say, Very nice work!
 

[Mike_J]

Now I just need a drill press, table saw, router, jig saw, belt sander, etc.   
One step at a time I guess.

I had a table saw, belt sander, shaper with table, 24" tool for making dovetail joints and many other large tools. Decided one day they were taking up too much room and weren't used enough to justify keeping. At the same time the business I get my baltic birch and other wood from will cut it accurately to my dimensions at no additional cost. No keeping blades sharp, cleaning up sawdust, etc. If you can find a business that will do the same for you I would suggest it as beneficial. In my opinion the belt sander is not a necessity. A random orbital sander is though. So is a router, jig saw, biscuit joiner, sliding compound miter saw and cordless drill. I like to use a drill press for drilling holes in circuit boards but a cordless drill will work just fine in its place. Just my experience.


Thanks
Mike

[Paul1453]

I appreciate your experience.

I move around a lot with my job.  Hopefully heading back overseas in the next year or so. 
In S. Korea I wouldn't dream of buying these tools when there are so many places to get this type of work done for peanuts.
Back here in the States, there doesn't seem to be many businesses like that near my post.

My Grandfather was a woodshop teacher and my Father has most of his tools now.
I'll probably get them when he passes, unless my younger brothers have stolen or trashed them.
I can do some basic woodworking, but much prefer the electronics part.

I'm focusing on tools I need for proper chassis fabrication now.   
I think you are right that I will be able to find someone to do the woodworking for a reasonable price if I look hard enough.

[PRR]

You can do a lot of swervy cutting with a saber saw. If I had one saw, that would be it.

Home Depot (near most mil bases) has 2x4 and 4x4 plywood and will make two cuts free (and usually three, because it isn't worth writing-up a charge-slip for an extra cut). Its not precision, but it is better than I can do when I am out of practice.

1x4 1x6 1x8 boards have nice sound and you can plan a project to BE 7.25 inches. (Be flexible; sometimes it runs 7.2".)

Utility monitor cabinets can be planned around 12" and 16" (so-called) shelving, nice-face chipboard. There's an iron-on tape for raw edges, but I usually let them be top/bottom so it stands on one and the other may be above-eye or collect books/papers.