The snarky answer is "depends on what the original value was supposed to be".
In days of old you would buy a 22K 10% resistor (the regular old R you would buy for a build or replacement) and measure it to find 20.3K to 24K. Sure enough, that's within tolerance-band specs. And almost any tube-amp (or anything else) schematic will have a notation that +/- 10% is OK.
Nowadays you buy an ordinary resistor and often find the value to be +/- 2% or even better.
A 3K variance on a 4700 ohm resistor is...no good. On a 470K, it doesn't matter. That's my main point. If I was refurbing the amp after using it for 20 years, especially a low parts count beast like a Sunn 2000, I would probably go with metal films and even go with next-wattage-up types on the plate resistors, for sure. Older carbon comp resistors that handled power or voltage or both tend to drift up in value. Maybe you would be replacing your "off-value" resistors because it made you feel better, but if you change the plate load resistors for MFs, it usually DRASTICALLY cuts down noise and hiss. Those 100Ks atop the first tube; the 270K and the 47Ks above and below the 6AN8 triode: Absolutely, and make the 1 watts 2 watts. Make the 1/2 watts 1 (or 2) watts. This is by far the cheapest and most results-producing change you can make on a refurb. I would probably do the 1Ks going to the 6560 grids, too. And the power supply node resistors, chg 2 watts to 3 watts. We're talking just a buck or two here, and all metal films you can get from Doug. Silly to scrimp once the amp is open on the bench.
Probably the biggest of big deals is seeing what you can do about changing out your 6AN8. That's supposedly quite the problematic tube.